G W Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) The only issue I see with the magnet lock is uninterrupted power.. Cos if power I'd down, door is unlocked. Needs battery backup. Cheers, Alex These are NOT magnetic locks. There are magnetic door releases. They hold the door open and release the door on power loss. They are used to let fire doors close when a fire alarm is activated. Best regards, Gary Funk Edited October 8, 2016 by GaryFunk
TheFallenAngel Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 You could do power off locked as a failsafe or visa versa if needed. #JustSayin #NotSayin Edit: auto correct fix Well the link I saw from Gary, that's not possible - no power, no lock.. Second link that is, first link actually keeps the door open (for emergencies) does not lock it (just sain') If you know of one that does what you describe - please post a link or two to those.. Cheers, Alex
G W Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Well the link I saw from Gary, that's not possible - no power, no lock.. Second link that is, first link actually keeps the door open (for emergencies) does not lock it (just sain') If you know of one that does what you describe - please post a link or two to those.. Cheers, Alex The second link will to the same thing. It just depends on where you place it. I will mount the magnetic plate on the door and the magnet on the wall to keep the door open. Best regards, Gary Funk Edited October 8, 2016 by GaryFunk
TheFallenAngel Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 The second link will to the same thing. It just depends on where you place it. I will mount the magnetic plate on the door and the magnet on the wall to keep the door open. Best regards, Gary Funk And I feel stupid now cos I misread the PP, I thought the magnet lock should keep the door locked (closed) Cheers, Alex
bdw72 Posted October 8, 2016 Author Posted October 8, 2016 I was thinking that an I/O link could release the door when needed, or some other insteon device. Let me know how you do yours GaryFunk.
G W Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 I was thinking that an I/O link could release the door when needed, or some other insteon device. Let me know how you do yours GaryFunk.I will use the Elk. However you could use an appliance linc to power a 12 volt power supply. Best regards, Gary Funk
G W Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 And I feel stupid now cos I misread the PP, I thought the magnet lock should keep the door locked (closed) Cheers, Alex The nice thing about the units in the second link is they can be used both ways. Best regards, Gary Funk
jtara92101 Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) So I guess no one here has used magnetic door releases or knows of any. Au contraire! One in the wild, in the hallway outside my condo. (See photos.) On either side of stairwell to isolate the stairwell. Used for it's intended purpose, for fire protection. They are used on fire doors that are left open for convenience. If the alarm is activated, or - quite by design - upon loss of power - the electromagnet will release and the door will close. Without this device, would need a closed door with a "this door to remain closed at all times" sign. I made a little video, but too big to upload, even in 480P. It takes quite a tug to close the door. Children might have difficulty. Looked at the specs on the product linked above, was surprised actually how little juice it takes, so you can't really object too much based on wasted power. (.05A at 24V = 1.25W). This seems smashing an ant with a sledgehammer for OP's problem. Would have to install a closer that will stand daily use (note the ones in my building to not get daily use!), purchase the electro-magnet, install an electrical box in a strange place, install big ugly magnet thingie on the door, make sure the electrical box is mounted firmly enough to withstand the big ugly magnet thingie banging against it (daily!) when the door is opened. ---- Speaking of fire protection, did you use a fire-rated door on that room you built inside your garage? Is the original door from the mudroom (original garage entry door) fire-rated? Per current code? Is the wall you built fire-rated? That's a garage. With a car. Loaded with gasoline. I'm a bit sensitive to the subject, as I've had fires next door twice in my life - both thankfully of fairly minor consequence. In a 28th floor high-rise in Detroit, there was a grease fire in the kitchen right next door. Nasty water came under the wall. And, more recently, in the place from which I recently moved, neighbor left a wet rag over a can lamp on floor with incandescent bulb. Thankfully, only smoldered. Fire department responded and I wasn't home, so fire department broke into my condo to insure nobody was inside. HOA irresponsibly did not call their on-call guard service, and I came home to an unsecured door and not knowing what had happened. First thought was break-in, but there was iPad on the kitchen counter... Did not smell any smoke. When I was a kid, as well, house two doors down burned to the ground. Current residence was declared "completely fire-proof" when it was built in 1927. Wisely, those chimneys xxxx staircases are today protected with fire doors, and the building sprinklered. 1985 code (when my previous residence was built) only required fire-rated doors on every other unit, and even then I think only because units are in pairs with facing doors. Developers almost always do the minimum needed by code, so every other door was a metal fire-rated door (neighbor had the metal door, I didn't). State Farm (neighbor's insurance) cheerfully paid for installation and finish (quite an expensive finish, I might add - bright red HollandLac, lovingly applied coat after coat after coat in landlord's contractor's garage...) of a new, 2-hour rated wood door. A 2-hour fire-rated wood door will run $400 minimum, and you won't find it in stock at Home Depot. (It was ordered from Lowe's - Home Depot didn't even know what we were talking about!) We worry a lot about home security here, but don't often see anything about fire protection. Edited October 8, 2016 by jtara92101
jtara92101 Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) BTW, while going off-topic. I have two nice Trine solenoid-operated latches that go in your door-frame that I have no use for. I've been meaning to put them up on eBay. PM me if interested in purchase or trade - would be interested in current-generation dual-band Insteon SL or KPLs if you've got extras! These WILL keep the door locked (closed). They are to be used with deadbolt-only. They can be changed to fail-open or fail-closed. They are each slightly different design. Edited October 8, 2016 by jtara92101
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