Which product to buy

[andrew77]

Hi guys;

 

I want to put an outdoor LED spotlight on the side of my house.

The location of the picture would be high enough so that the wiring would come from inside the attic to the outer wall.

 

Clearly I can't go into the attic to turn the light on and off so I'm wondering off this is what I need

 

http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band.html

 

Unless theres a better suited device to buy.

 

Drew

[stusviews]

The In-LineLinc is an ideal solution.

[larryllix]

Hi guys;

 

I want to put an outdoor LED spotlight on the side of my house.

The location of the picture would be high enough so that the wiring would come from inside the attic to the outer wall.

 

Clearly I can't go into the attic to turn the light on and off so I'm wondering off this is what I need

 

http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band.html

 

Unless theres a better suited device to buy.

 

Drew

The light requires a switch.

Install a SwitchLinc, instead of  mechanical switch, to control it, wherever you mount the switchbox.

 

HCS

Edited December 5, 2016 by larryllix

[Teken]

Drew was there a specific reason you didn't select the ILL dimmer vs the relay? Unless the LED fixtures is listed as not dimmable as some aren't.

 

I ask because Smartlabs indicates this is the only (formal) Insteon device that supports LED dimmable lighting.

[andrew77]

Hi Larry;

Do I need to install a SWL to control the light? Will this device not let me control the light from a KPL elsewhere in the house?

 

Hi Teken;

I won't need to dim the light as it'll solely be a spotlight for letting dogs out the basement walkout.

 

What device should I be looking for then?

 

Drew 

[Teken]

Unless you already have a none dimmable LED present installing a dimmable ILL only makes sense over the long run. As it will allow you to define the light output to different scenarios when needed.

 

Ex. 100% output for dog duties. 50% for perimeter lighting before midnight, 25% after midnight for beacon street location identification.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

[andrew77]

Good point. 

 

I'll go for the dimmable Inline link

 

http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-dimmer-insteon-2475da1-remote-control-in-line-dimmer-dual-band.html

 

I believe this is what I want then?

[Teken]

Yup, please ensure your wattage falls within the ILL's operating capacity. Keeping in mind lots of cheaper LED bulbs have a huge inrush start up current when first turned on. This can range from 2-30 times the RMS current for fraction of s second.

 

Lastly, keep in mind the switch in the home must be a dimmer to use direct dimming unless you create scenes with defined output levels via programs etc.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

[larryllix]

You need  switch somewhere to change the bulb, not alive, and for when any inline products fail.

 

You can control the light there by paddle or from any Insteon device / ISY in your network.

Edited December 6, 2016 by larryllix

[andrew77]

Could I not just throw the breaker if I need to change the bulb?

Do these inline products fail a lot?

[larryllix]

Could I not just throw the breaker if I need to change the bulb?

Do these inline products fail a lot?

I don't think that is really acceptable, but if there is nothing else on the breaker you don't want shut down...sure.

 

Switches/dimmer and MS sensors always have an air gap feature for safety when changing bulbs.

 

If possible, I would install a switchbox somewhere semi-convenient, and keep all electronics not too inconvenient.

 

You also may want to switch it on/off as you walk past at times.  Your PLM could be dying and taking a week to get a new one.

Edited December 6, 2016 by larryllix

[G W]

 

 

I don't think that is really acceptable, but if there is nothing else on the breaker you don't want shut down...sure..

It is in the US.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

[larryllix]

It is in the US.

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

I know we get can away with that in certain Industrial installations but not residential.

Breakers are not made to switch loads on and off buut they do.

[G W]

That's a requirement in the US when working on circuits.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

[Teken]

Drew,

 

Just to be clear can you offer a direct link to the LED fixture? I ask because we don't want to recommend the wrong Insteon solution for the product you intend to use if it's not compatible.

 

I.e. When you say spot light do you really mean a motion activated light fixture. If this is indeed a motion activated motion light please keep in mind you can't use Insteon on those devices advertised as having dual bright technology. If on the other hand this is just a multi head / single head spot light with no electronics / ballasts etc.

 

You're good to go using the ILL Dimmer.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Edited December 6, 2016 by Teken

[stusviews]

The ILL is especially made for location where there is not a switch box. It's in conformance with both the NEC and CSA to use an ILL in place of a switch. A switch box is a better choice, if you can install one, but it's not a requirement. The ILL On/Off switch will work with LED bulbs. It's capable of 20 amps, so the inrush of LED bulbs should not be a problem.

[andrew77]

I don't think that is really acceptable, but if there is nothing else on the breaker you don't want shut down...sure.

 

Switches/dimmer and MS sensors always have an air gap feature for safety when changing bulbs.

 

If possible, I would install a switchbox somewhere semi-convenient, and keep all electronics not too inconvenient.

 

You also may want to switch it on/off as you walk past at times.  Your PLM could be dying and taking a week to get a new one.

 

My issue is as I stated above. The wiring for the device will be in the attic. No extra wiring will be brought down in to the house. I was hoping this device would let me do as I described. Its sounding as if its not a good idea now...

[andrew77]

Drew,

 

Just to be clear can you offer a direct link to the LED fixture? I ask because we don't want to recommend the wrong Insteon solution for the product you intend to use if it's not compatible.

 

I.e. When you say spot light you really mean a motion activated light fixture. If this is indeed a motion activated motion light please keep in mind you can't use Insteon on those devices advertised as having dual bright technology. If on the other hand this is just a multi head / single head spot light with no electronics / ballasts etc.

 

You're good to go using the ILL Dimmer.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

It won't be motion activated. Its a multi head LED fixture, very simple.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'offering a direct link to the LED"?

[Teken]

Just a link to the product you intend to buy and install to view the specs.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

[andrew77]

The ILL is especially made for location where there is not a switch box. It's in conformance with both the NEC and CSA to use an ILL in place of a switch. A switch box is a better choice, if you can install one, but it's not a requirement. The ILL On/Off switch will work with LED bulbs. It's capable of 20 amps, so the inrush of LED bulbs should not be a problem.

If you mean putting the ILL inside a switch box I can do that. I assumed the ILL fits inside one. I wouldn't have the wires tied and just hanging out not shielded in an electrical box.

[G W]

My issue is as I stated above. The wiring for the device will be in the attic. No extra wiring will be brought down in to the house. I was hoping this device would let me do as I described. Its sounding as if its not a good idea now...

I think it's a great fit for what you want. My concern is where you place the device. If it's in a place with high heat that might beva problem.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

[andrew77]

Just a link to the product you intend to buy and install to view the specs.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Not right now. But I'll look to see if I can find it.

[Teken]

Not right now. But I'll look to see if I can find it.

No worries but as Gary noted it's not recommended to install the ILL in the attic if you live in a hot climate. Considering most places even where I live in the cold aszz GWN the temps are greater than 50-60'C!

 

Heat is the primary killer of electronics besides low / high voltage conditions.

[andrew77]

I think it's a great fit for what you want. My concern is where you place the device. If it's in a place with high heat that might beva problem.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

In the attic. It'll probably hot in summer. I'm not certain how hot it gets up there.

[G W]

In the attic. It'll probably hot in summer. I'm not certain how hot it gets up there.

It can get 50% hotter than outside temp.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.