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andrew77

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The ILL is usually installed in the fixture box as it's meant primarily for the situation where there is not a switch. If you're going to add a switch box, then use an On/Off Switchlinc. Either one can be remotely controlled, but the SwitchLinc is a more convenient disconnect. In any case, a code compliant installation requires a switch box plate, either for a paddle or a blank.

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Best to install a larger box the ILL can go inside with the LED fixture attached.

 

 

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The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

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So... Sounds like this plan is kaput.

 

Any thoughts on how I can do this?

 

To recap;

 

I want to put an LED light up high on an outside wall of my house. 

The placement of the light would would be high enough that the wiring through the wall could come directly out of the attic.

 

I don't relish the idea of tearing up drywall to run a SWL to the light, hence the ILL.

 

From this discussion it sounds as if it isn't a solution.

 

Drew

 

Stu and Teken

 

I wrote this reply before you posted your replies.

 

I don't think the ILL would fit in a box with the LED light on it (all outside) and look very good.

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Drew,

 

All you need to do is use a larger outdoor rated box to install the ILL. Then install the LED fixture to the box.

 

Bam - your golden

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

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So... Sounds like this plan is kaput.

 

Any thoughts on how I can do this?

 

To recap;

 

I want to put an LED light up high on an outside wall of my house.

The placement of the light would would be high enough that the wiring through the wall could come directly out of the attic.

 

I don't relish the idea of tearing up drywall to run a SWL to the light, hence the ILL.

 

From this discussion it sounds as if it isn't a solution.

 

Drew

You can mount a box to the outside if the house to contain the switch.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

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My issue is as I stated above. The wiring for the device will be in the attic. No extra wiring will be brought down in to the house. I was hoping this device would let me do as I described. Its sounding as if its not a good idea now...

Are you running above the garage in the attic space?

 

is your run to the attic existing or are you adding it?

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So... Sounds like this plan is kaput.

 

Any thoughts on how I can do this?

 

To recap;

 

I want to put an LED light up high on an outside wall of my house.

The placement of the light would would be high enough that the wiring through the wall could come directly out of the attic.

 

I don't relish the idea of tearing up drywall to run a SWL to the light, hence the ILL.

 

From this discussion it sounds as if it isn't a solution.

 

Drew

 

Stu and Teken

 

I wrote this reply before you posted your replies.

 

I don't think the ILL would fit in a box with the LED light on it (all outside) and look very good.

It could be just a small box next to above it, or below so it looks clean and uniform.
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Drew,

 

All you need to do is use a larger outdoor rated box to install the ILL. Then install the LED fixture to the box.

 

Bam - your golden

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I'll talk to my electrician and see if theres a good looking box as opposed to a clunky piece of Sputnik sticking out of the side of my house that lowers the property value of neighbours' houses.

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The ILL will easily fit in a standard 4" round (so called, it's actually an octagon) fixture/ceiling box. It does not in any way interfere with the installation of the fixture. There are also exterior boxes that don't look bad, in both gray and brown. White, too.

 

You do not need an extra large box!!!

 

You do not need a switch box!!!

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I live in a ranch style so it's above a bedroom.

 

I'll add to the wiring existing in the attic.

OK then the pipe and surface mount box I was going to suggest, down the wall is a no go.

 

Wouldn't look good in the bedroom. LOL

 

The module inside the octagon box for the wall fixture would keep it cooler and ladder accessible, for maintenance, if needed.

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The ILL will easily fit in a standard 4" round (so called, it's actually an octagon) fixture/ceiling box. It does not in any way interfere with the installation of the fixture.

 

Will that look good? Or would it look like a junction box mounted to the side of the house with a light screwed on to it?

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No matter what you do write down and take a photo of the Insteon MAC address! Along with placing a piece of clear tape over it in case it falls off.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

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OK then the pipe and surface mount box I was going to suggest, down the wall is a no go.

 

Wouldn't look good in the bedroom. LOL

 

The module inside the octagon box for the wall fixture would keep it cooler and ladder accessible, for maintenance, if needed.

Again, I think I'll ask my electrician if he's got a good looking solution as opposed to the junction box approach. There must be an outdoor rated fashionable box other than the galvanized octagons.

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No matter what you do write down and take a photo of the Insteon MAC address! Along with placing a piece of clear tape over it in case it falls off.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I always take a quick snapshot of the device on my iPhone and leave it in a folder on the Mac. I also run a topography as well.

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Again, I think I'll ask my electrician if he's got a good looking solution as opposed to the junction box approach. There must be an outdoor rated fashionable box other than the galvanized octagons.

There are plastic boxes that seal out rain better but...

 

Boxes can be mounted on the surface or inside the brick level to the surface.

 

With a flood light fixture mounted on the box you will hardly see the extra 2" of box, if not level mounted in the wall. After that you may notice that many other house already have them.

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The ILL will easily fit in a standard 4" round (so called, it's actually an octagon) fixture/ceiling box. It does not in any way interfere with the installation of the fixture. There are also exterior boxes that don't look bad, in both gray and brown. White, too.

 

You do not need an extra large box!!!

 

You do not need a switch box!!!

 

Bronze is available. You could even paint the box B)

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My issue is as I stated above. The wiring for the device will be in the attic. No extra wiring will be brought down in to the house. I was hoping this device would let me do as I described. Its sounding as if its not a good idea now...

I've done the exact same thing, controlled with a keypad in the house via a scene. Works perfect.

 

You don't normally replace the LEDs in these types of fixtures if they go bad, you would replace the whole fixture so you would have to shut off the breaker anyway to do that.

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1. You should ALWAYS shut off the breaker when doing ANY work on a circuit. You should never rely on only the switch.

 

2. You might also use a MicroDimmer module, if the load is less than 100W and you have trouble fitting the ILL. Since it is an LED, the load is almost certainly < 100W.

 

3. Consider a Mini Remote Wireless Switch as a companion. You can put it anywhere, as it is battery powered. You need to charge it via USB maybe twice a year. I use this and a MicroDimmer to control a closet light that was previously a globe with a pull chain.

 

http://www.insteon.com/wireless-switch

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Adding the frame kit to the RL2 will offer that *Virtual Switch* anywhere: http://www.smarthome.com/mini-remote-wall-mount-bracket.html

 

I would however purchase at least the 4 / 8 button RL2 as this would let you define the scenes to reflect the different use cases as I noted up above. In my mind unless there is a absolute need for a single button to match an existing decora switch set.

 

Purchasing the multi button RL2 is the best value and future proofing . . .

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1. You should ALWAYS shut off the breaker when doing ANY work on a circuit. You should never rely on only the switch.

 

2. You might also use a MicroDimmer module, if the load is less than 100W and you have trouble fitting the ILL. Since it is an LED, the load is almost certainly < 100W.

 

3. Consider a Mini Remote Wireless Switch as a companion. You can put it anywhere, as it is battery powered. You need to charge it via USB maybe twice a year. I use this and a MicroDimmer to control a closet light that was previously a globe with a pull chain.

 

http://www.insteon.com/wireless-switch

 

2. Before the FanLinc, I had no difficulty fitting two ILLs into a standard ceiling box, a relay for the fan and a dimmer for the light. And this exterior fixture box currently has two ILLs,  a dimmer for the wall fixture and a rely for the floodlight:

post-625-0-26334700-1481060656_thumb.jpg

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