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3vdc charging power supply rec

TrojanHorse

By TrojanHorse
in ISY994

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TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

Posted
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Another question?

 

I'd like a recommendation for 3vdc supply with battery backup to run a remote for a GDO that I've soldered to an Elk relay and a wall wart. I envision something like a cordless phone battery and charging circuit. Suggestions?

 

Everything else including the garage opener motor has battery backup except for my hacked remote that's in the garage right next to the opener plugged into the outlet. Belt-and-suspenders wish...

 

 

 

 

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stusviews Advanced

stusviews

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't believe that there are 3 VDC power supplies with a battery backup, but there are 3 VDC power supplies and 3 VDC battery chargers. But, why would you need a battery backup? If power fails, then you couldn't operate the GDO  even if the remote has power.

Edited by stusviews
TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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The opener has a built-in backup.

I agree it would be unlikely to need this given that we would probably have a remote in one of the cars, so it would be an unusual use case.

One example could be needing to let a neighbor into the house in the event of a power outage when we are away.

 

The relay is in the elk can with battery backup and the ISY also has backup so this remote is the weak link in the chain.

 

 

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larryllix Advanced

larryllix

Posted
Posted (edited)

If it will just sit there with very little load, a couple of NiMH cells with a few watt solar panel to charge your car battery.

 

The type that actually drains a 12v battery due to the flashing LED taking more energy that the cell puts out on your dashboard. Some experimentation would be needed but the 3-5W rating would likely be just enough to top the battery off each day with garage lighting. Pick one up at a garage sale for a buck or two.

 

Solar PV panels act like constant current devices (light dependent) and can be shorted without problems.

 

Afterthought; Pickup a solar garden light with a 3v NiMH battery in it and connect into that. It's all there already. This depends on your standby load on the battery.

Edited by larryllix
G W Advanced

G W

Posted
Posted

I don't believe that there are 3 VDC power supplies with a battery backup, but there are 3 VDC power supplies and 3 VDC battery chargers. But, why would you need a battery backup? If power fails, then you couldn't operate the GDO even if the remote has power.

His first message says his GDC has battery power. Just like mine does.

 

Gary Funk (Joke removed at the request of one user)

larryllix Advanced

larryllix

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Larry, I'm not sure I understand your suggestion. How would I connect these solar light panels? Unit is wired at the opener.

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You mentioned it was a remote, so I figured it was portable.

 

If it wired in to a battery backed GDO, why do you need a separate power supply?

 

If you need a separate power supply what is wrong with a solar panel instead of a wallwart?

 

I am confused exactly what this is, you want to backup.

TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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Sorry if I'm unclear.

 

I took a standard RF universal garage remote replacement from big box, opened it, and soldered two wires for power to a wall wart and two wires to the "control" button contacts to a relay at the elk. So it's essentially hardwired and not portable. I installed it next to the opener in the garage.

 

The reason I don't like the solar panel option in the garage is that I wouldn't want that to be my only source of power. I'd prefer a plug-in power source with a small back up battery.

 

But like I said, belt and suspenders, not essential to have this component on battery backup.

 

Thanks for your help

 

 

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larryllix Advanced

larryllix

Posted
Posted

Sorry if I'm unclear.

I took a standard RF universal garage remote replacement from big box, opened it, and soldered two wires for power to a wall wart and two wires to the "control" button contacts to a relay at the elk. So it's essentially hardwired and not portable. I installed it next to the opener in the garage.

The reason I don't like the solar panel option in the garage is that I wouldn't want that to be my only source of power. I'd prefer a plug-in power source with a small back up battery.

But like I said, belt and suspenders, not essential to have this component on battery backup.

Thanks for your help

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You want a plug-in source to charge your batteries in the remote.

I would be looking inside the GDO control panel for some voltage that you could steal a little current to keep a trickle charge on the batteries, just a few mA.

 

ebay has lots of 3v wallwarts. Best to get a higher voltage, like a 5v microUSB style and add an appropriate resistor in series to charge a couple of NiMH. The batteries can take a light charge constantly for their lifetime.

 

That is why I suggested the PV part of a solar lantern style. Most people have an old one they are about to toss. Just enough ctrickle current that the batteries don't go dead in a few months.

TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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Thanks Larry for the suggestions. I might look into that some more but was really looking for an off-the-shelf solution.

That said, maybe I'll just get another RF remote and experiment!

 

 

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KeviNH Advanced

KeviNH

Posted
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If it's right next to the garage door opener, why not just hardwire to the button terminals on the GDO instead of using a transmitter?

 

 

I would tap DC voltage off the existing battery backup and run it through a step down buck converter to regulate the battery voltage (probably 12 or 24VDC) down to 3VDC with very little standby loss.

larryllix Advanced

larryllix

Posted
Posted (edited)

If it's right next to the garage door opener, why not just hardwire to the button terminals on the GDO instead of using a transmitter?

 

 

I would tap DC voltage off the existing battery backup and run it through a step down buck converter to regulate the battery voltage (probably 12 or 24VDC) down to 3VDC with very little standby loss.

If he patched the Elk dry contact directly to the opener control panel, no aux. ps or remote would be needed at all. Edited by larryllix
G W Advanced

G W

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Wonderful thing that Elk output relay board. I'm ordering a second board.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Its been a while since I installed this, but initially I tried to connect the relay to the wired opener button and it didn't seem to like that. The "button" is called something like a "multi function control panel" - has a little motion sensor and programs the unit - and it didn't seem too happy about connecting the relay. It worked, but the display on this "panel" would flicker and it would lose some settings, such as the time. Someone smarter than me could probably resolve that issue, but I decided to try the remote route instead since the flickering behavior didn't make me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

 

 

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G W Advanced

G W

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Posted

Did you connect it to the actual button on the control device or just connect to the two wires coming from the control device?

 

Gary Funk (Joke removed at the request of one user)

TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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Did you connect it to the actual button on the control device or just connect to the two wires coming from the control device?

 

Gary Funk (Joke removed at the request of one user)

The latter, as I wasn't confident enough to solder to the control device and still have the push button work.

 

Here's a link to cocoontech that describes my similar situation. I recall reading this and just thinking - get a RF remote and go that route.

 

http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/18397-control-garage-door-opener-with-elk-m1-with-a-smart-control-panel/

 

 

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TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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It's no different than soldering to the RF remote.

 

Gary Funk (Joke removed at the request of one user)

Sure, but I am very much a novice at soldering, so any beginner mistakes on the spare RF remote had less downside.

 

 

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larryllix Advanced

larryllix

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The latter, as I wasn't confident enough to solder to the control device and still have the push button work.

 

Here's a link to cocoontech that describes my similar situation. I recall reading this and just thinking - get a RF remote and go that route.

 

http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/18397-control-garage-door-opener-with-elk-m1-with-a-smart-control-panel/

 

 

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The wires going to the mechanism run power to the circuits in the keypad and signals to operate things. That shouldn't have worked on the fancy new multipurpose control panels. (I have one too that we have given up, setting the clock for).

 

You need to solder across the pushbutton contacts. You will need a temperature controlled soldering iron and be quick,most likely. Find a buddy with a temp. controlled soldering pencil and experience for a case of beer.

 

Where are you?

Edited by larryllix
G W Advanced

G W

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Near Minneapolis Minnesota

 

 

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Never tell Larry where you are. He likes to stalk people. (grin)

 

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.

TrojanHorse Advanced

TrojanHorse

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Well, he didn't ask to meet in a park after dark so I thought it was okay to give a general location. That said, I should brush up on internet safety.

I will choose my profile picture carefully, maybe I will use some reflective sunglasses as a clever disguise

 

 

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