Power Failure Detect Program

[PhanTomiZ]

MFBra,

 

You can also use Control 'is not Responding' on a few of your most important devices in a program.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

I can't create a program where IF - Control is used to check "is not Responding".  Only a IF - Status program will do that.  Unless you can tell me something I don't know yet?  

Also, this program would have to be re-evaluated every minute or so to check for a or many devices not responding .

 

PhanTomiZ

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi PhanTomiZ,

 

Apologies, yes, it's status.

 

Yes, this program is evaluated when something that you try to communicate with does not respond. It's no different than trying to figure out whether or not the PLM is still working.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

[MFBra]

Hi PhanTomiZ,

 

Apologies, yes, it's status.

 

Yes, this program is evaluated when something that you try to communicate with does not respond. It's no different than trying to figure out whether or not the PLM is still working.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

Michael,

 

Based on the ISY capability to detect a faulty PLM I thought it would be the cheaper, easier and maybe the best way to "assume" power failure, with the GREAT side effect of having the ability to notify if there is a total failure with the PLM...

 

At the end, just food for thought...

 

Thanks

 

 

Enviado do meu iPad usando Tapatalk

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi MFBra,

 

Thank you and I agree. I was just offering alternatives till such time that we have enough time to implement.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

[PhanTomiZ]

Hi,

 

Finally got finished with my Power Loss Detection method...Here it is, but first my findings with the other methods I tried...

 

First and second methods I tried both worked fine and had one common denominator;  it relied on the status of my computer (on 24 hours for Blue Iris).  Read on as you'll find, for me, this is not to be relied on.

 

First method is to use my IP Cameras.  I use Blue Iris and I'm able to send a web command through the Blue Iris Watchdog routine using REST to change an ISY State Watchdog Variable which I created.  All I needed to do is monitor the watchdog variable of 3 or 4 of my most reliable IP Cameras and I would know if utility power was lost.  Computer is needed to send this REST command to the ISY.

 

Second method is to use my CyberPower UPS.  It can also send web commands on certain alerts.  One of the alerts is "Utility Power Loss".  Great, so I can once again use this to send a REST command to the ISY through my computer.

 

I'm a firm believer of "Use What You Got", so this is my solution:

 

I decided to use my existing I/O linc which I am using for my remote computer reset device.  As you can see from the pics, the N.O contacts are used with two wires that parallel up with the power switch of my computer.  This was a short term band aid for the "Dreaded Windows 10 Blue Screen of Death".  

 

I use the Sense and GND terminals with two more wires that go to an open/close sensor.  This did require a little trial and error as when I was testing the use of this device (open/close sensor), it worked perfectly.  The wire I was using was the same wire that comes with the Insteon 74551 Garage Door Control & Status Kit.  The wire length is approximately 10' long.  After doing my testing and being confident this setup was working, I decided to cut the wires to length, about 6", and two way tape the open/close sensor to the I/O linc. Unfortunately, when I tested my final setup it was no longer functioning.  At first I thought it to be the close proximity of the I/O linc , so I pulled the Open/Close sensor off the I/O linc and left it hanging down.  Still didn't function.  I reconnected the 10' wires and voila it worked. So for now, I have 10' of wire connected from the I/O linc to the Open/Close sensor.  

 

Can someone chime in for an explanation of short wire vs long wire?

 

Thanks to all for your recommendations

 

PhanTomiZ

 

[Teken]

Hi,

 

Finally got finished with my Power Loss Detection method...Here it is, but first my findings with the other methods I tried...

 

First and second methods I tried both worked fine and had one common denominator;  it relied on the status of my computer (on 24 hours for Blue Iris).  Read on as you'll find, for me, this is not to be relied on.

 

First method is to use my IP Cameras.  I use Blue Iris and I'm able to send a web command through the Blue Iris Watchdog routine using REST to change an ISY State Watchdog Variable which I created.  All I needed to do is monitor the watchdog variable of 3 or 4 of my most reliable IP Cameras and I would know if utility power was lost.  Computer is needed to send this REST command to the ISY.

 

Second method is to use my CyberPower UPS.  It can also send web commands on certain alerts.  One of the alerts is "Utility Power Loss".  Great, so I can once again use this to send a REST command to the ISY through my computer.

 

I'm a firm believer of "Use What You Got", so this is my solution:

 

I decided to use my existing I/O linc which I am using for my remote computer reset device.  As you can see from the pics, the N.O contacts are used with two wires that parallel up with the power switch of my computer.  This was a short term band aid for the "Dreaded Windows 10 Blue Screen of Death".  

 

I use the Sense and GND terminals with two more wires that go to an open/close sensor.  This did require a little trial and error as when I was testing the use of this device (open/close sensor), it worked perfectly.  The wire I was using was the same wire that comes with the Insteon 74551 Garage Door Control & Status Kit.  The wire length is approximately 10' long.  After doing my testing and being confident this setup was working, I decided to cut the wires to length, about 6", and two way tape the open/close sensor to the I/O linc. Unfortunately, when I tested my final setup it was no longer functioning.  At first I thought it to be the close proximity of the I/O linc , so I pulled the Open/Close sensor off the I/O linc and left it hanging down.  Still didn't function.  I reconnected the 10' wires and voila it worked. So for now, I have 10' of wire connected from the I/O linc to the Open/Close sensor.  

 

Can someone chime in for an explanation of short wire vs long wire?

 

Thanks to all for your recommendations

 

PhanTomiZ

 

There should be no difference for such a short wire run. Keep in mind the I/O linc needs to be (armed / activated) as noted in my install thread for the *How To* the black set button needs to be pressed. This arms the system and once power is lost closes the relay and connects the other end of the contacts to the Open-Close sensor.

 

The only thing that would impact the Open-Close sensor is poor RF mesh in that area. If so then having the ability to raise the module higher to receive and send the RF signal to the closest Insteon hardware is the expected outcome. As you already know you're working with two pieces of hardware which are not dual band.

 

So if that area does not have a dual band device please ensure you have something close by. Otherwise you will find erratic performance and operations. This would be a very good time to place that Open-Close sensor on the heart beat program that Belias has created.

 

I've done this to all devices in my home because its a crude method to determine RF in range / out of range and obviously battery operations. 

[PhanTomiZ]

There should be no difference for such a short wire run. Keep in mind the I/O linc needs to be (armed / activated) as noted in my install thread for the *How To* the black set button needs to be pressed. This arms the system and once power is lost closes the relay and connects the other end of the contacts to the Open-Close sensor.

 

 

 

I use a variant of your suggestion with the I/O linc.  Instead of using the N/O contacts (these are already in use for my computer reset setup), I use the GND and Sense terminals in which I connect the Open/Close sensor...