Global Cache' Flex + RGB(W) IR-Controlled strip lights? (vs Magic UFO)

[jtara92101]

I have some open (Elfa) shelving across the back of my living room that needs some lighting. (Actually, it overflow from my tiny kitchen! Dishes, glasses, espresso station, cookbooks, etc. etc.)

 

Since it is not a food preparation area, I don't plan on going crazy with super high-CRI lighting. And in this one spot, I think it might be nice to have the option to use colors.

 

So, I was at Home Depot the other day and was awfully tempted by some pre-assembled RGBW strips that are just the right length. But they come with an IR remote. Probably wouldn't really get this from Home Depot, but from some online source. (Naw, I take that back - Home Depot for the liberal return policy!) But wasn't willing to live with the IR remote and no ability to control with Insteon.

 

Was looking at Global Cache' site today to gets the docs for my IP+IR (re-installing TV bracket/shelving after a move) and noticed the new Flex product. It's a small dongle that you can get different cables for - IR emitter, contact closure, serial... And also available in either wired Ethernet or WiFi.

 

Has anyone used a Flex to control one of these IR-remote LED strips? If so, any comments, gotchas, suggestions? I'd really love to hear from anyone who has tried this AND has also tried the Magic UFO controller.

 

At $90, I guess Magic UFO will be more affordable.

 

I've followed the Magic UFO saga just a bit. I gather there are issues trying to fade (or fade between colors?) because each channel is controlled separately and so the commands for the channels can never be in perfect sync? 

 

I'm assuming that the IR-controlled remotes have some button sequence for making nice transitions, and some internal circuitry to do so. And so all I need to do is parrot the IR commands. Whereas with Magic UFO you are controlling the channels at a lower level and having to send periodic updates to levels.

[larryllix]

I am using 12 (so far) of the LEDenet rectangular controllers. AFAICT they are the same manufacturer and protocol as the UFO. Missing the PS jack convenience and a cheaper case and maybe terminals I landed most of mine for under $18 US. The last 6 for $12 US each.

 

There is no decent fading on these controllers. Normally they fade on/off and colour change, but obviously the little CPU gets busy and ignores WiFi commands, until it is done ramping. The resolution looks to be about 4 intensity steps and can be pretty jerky looking, when comms are busy, at times. The fade/ramp time is about 0.5-1.0 second total. Very quick.

 

I have discovered a "music mode" that turns off the fading and makes them respond quicker. For HA it looks nasty, with such sudden snap changes, but for animations of many strips for sequences it works better.

I do have some problems with Ethernet packettes getting out of order occasionally and weird delays, making jerky sequences, too. Strangely, if I run the animations at lightspeeds nothing seems to miss. Like the router goes to sleep, if you don't keep it awake. LOL

 

Total package is about $18 for the controller, $18 for the SMD5050 RGBWW 5m strips, $10 for 12v 5A PSU, $1.50 for a 2.1 x 5.1mm connector with wires, $0.50 for 5 pin flat cable connector with wires.

 

The RGBW strips come in 5m lengths with connector on both ends. Very easy to cut the strip in two pieces and make easy usage of each end with a controller & PSU each. I measure about 3-4 amps needed for 5m strip all LEDs on full.

[oberkc]

I use some of the colored LED strip lights from home depot.  They have the IR remote control to handle dimming and colors and such.

 

One nice thing about them is that they keep prior settings when unplugged, and plugging them back in resulted in resuming wherever they left off.  Given this, one could simply plug them into an insteon outlet and use that for simple on/off control, using the remote only when one got tired of blue, or red.

 

In addition, I found that I CAN control them with a global cache WF2IR blaster.  (This, I understand, is similar to the itach flex in operation.)  One must have the network module, and one must go through the effort to create a network resource for each of the remote commands desired, and one must use ISY programs to initiate those resources but, yes, it can be done and works quite well.

[jtara92101]

In addition, I found that I CAN control them with a global cache WF2IR blaster. 

 

Oh! Thank you!

 

Maybe I don't need the Flex. Maybe I can hit it from across the room with a blaster. I've never tried one, I use the stick-on emitters for my AV equipment that can't be controlled by IP.

 

And in any case, you made me realize that I can experiment first with my IP2IR. It is a no-brainer to go off to Home Depot and get one of these to try.

 

I've already used some REST on the ISY to control the IP2IR. I use it to control an A/B speaker switch from a KPL.

[oberkc]

I suspect the blaster from across the room would work fine.

[jtara92101]

I got one of the Home Depot18-ft RGBW strips. It was DOA. And I see it can only be cut at 2-ft intervals. (Actually, they don't say you can cut it, but user comments say you can, so long as you don't expect it to be water resistant). It's actually made-up of 2-ft segments soldered together. 

 

Interestingly, although it is RGBW, it uses FOUR-pin connectors! The lines are labelled (on the strip itself) as: 

 

- +24V

- DIN

- W

- GND

 

So, I guess that DIN is some serial command bus, and the strip itself contains dimming circuitry (at least for RGB?) and some logic for fancy/annoying effects (such as chase) that wouldn't be possible with a simple RGBWG(ground) layout.

 

It will go back for a refund, as the "every 2 ft" cutting restriction doesn't work for me.

 

But still open to using IR control, rather than IP. Any suggestions?

 

LEDENet is out, as I have a friend that has it and it's a total disaster. All of his strips are in various states of failure. One has every other LED out, another has random burn-outs, there are random single-color burn-outs, etc. etc. etc. And the strips run incredibly hot, despite being in a metal channel!

[larryllix]

LEDENET is the controller manufacturer.

 

The LEDS are made by other manufacturers. I have 17 strips and I have had two 5m strips that had one section of one colour not working from new.

 

My money was refunded for the whole 5m in each case from eBay vendors.

 

Four strips have been working fine for about two years now. Without problems but I don't cage the heat in any channel. They are IP67 types enclosed inside a silicone tube but clamped to wooden surfaces.

 

The SMD5050 strips are cuttable about every 12 inches and have 5 pin connector pad rows with cut marks.

 

 

Sent from a tiny keyboard. Response may be brief.

[jtara92101]

So I did some research, and "digital addressable LED tape" is a thing. I gather they have typically been 5V up until recently, but now come in 12V and 24V, I'd guess with regulators on the strip. Some use DMX protocol. I think the Home Depot ones use a proprietary protocol, because DMX needs two signal lines, right? One of the touted advantages is the ability to run longer strips without a big voltage drop problem. (24V supply rail and I assume local regulation, as opposed to multiple dimmed supply lines.)

 

BTW, from the manual, the Home Depot strips have only a small number of dimming steps, I think 5.

 

Looks like the 24V digital addressable strips are a fairly new thing?

 

Thanks for the clarification, Larry! I will ask my friend where he sourced his strips and avoid those! I wonder if the use of the aluminum channels really does more harm than good?

 

I have MDF channels (not yet installed) for my kitchen, and my friend poo-poo'd that, saying "where is the heat going to go". (For the kitchen, will just be going with white, no fancy mood lighting!) I was thinking of using the same MDF channels for the shelving, and paint silver to match the shelving.

[larryllix]

I think if the strips are stickied or tight to a larger surface they should be ok but I am not sure they should be run at 24 volts. I guess dome may designed for it with larger cut sections.

 

Scott is using the four colour combo ones sll in one led but my guess they cannot put out the same lumens or will not stand all segments illuminated simultaneously.

 

My strips are alternating white and rgb LEDs do the heat may be distributed better.

 

I have eight strips on a board right now on their supplied rolls for a test jig and I try not to illuminate them for too long at a time. They do get hot when clumped together.

 

Sent from a tiny keyboard. Response may be brief.

[Scottmichaelj]

I think if the strips are stickied or tight to a larger surface they should be ok but I am not sure they should be run at 24 volts. I guess dome may designed for it with larger cut sections.

 

Scott is using the four colour combo ones sll in one led but my guess they cannot put out the same lumens or will not stand all segments illuminated simultaneously.

 

My strips are alternating white and rgb LEDs do the heat may be distributed better.

 

I have eight strips on a board right now on their supplied rolls for a test jig and I try not to illuminate them for too long at a time. They do get hot when clumped together.

 

Sent from a tiny keyboard. Response may be brief.

My post with my thoughts of Supernight 5050 4in1 LEDS are in a thread here if your interested search for it. I dont have heat issues and the brightness is fine. The only downside for me is dim/brightness ramp rates and controlling them like a Insteon lamp. Its just not the same. However its the best combo I have found and I researched and bought a bunch of strips and controllers to test.

[larryllix]

My post with my thoughts of Supernight 5050 4in1 LEDS are in a thread here if your interested search for it. I dont have heat issues and the brightness is fine. The only downside for me is dim/brightness ramp rates and controlling them like a Insteon lamp. Its just not the same. However its the best combo I have found and I researched and bought a bunch of strips and controllers to test.

Just as a point of interest.

 

Do you run your strips with simultaneous RGB and white on 100% to get more illumination?

 

I find on my alternation white RGB LED strips style that the RGB LED illumination is hardly noticeable compared to the white LEDs on 100%

 

As an example when white is on 100% it would take red on 100% to barely notice the change in colour of the light.

A 2m strip is roughly compareable to about a 60W incandescent with every second LED (white) on 100%.

 

As another example, white would have to be at about less than 20% to make a pastel colour noticeable.

 

IOW: The RGB LED does not have more than about 10-20% of the illumination power of the white LEDs.