apostolakisl Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 I have had 3 of my older units die on me, two in the exact same way here just in the past month. They are older units, 4.35 and 3.3 made in 2008 and 2009. Both would turn on, then every few seconds, maybe up to 30 they would shut off for a second or two and then turn back on. The white led's would also flip down to off then back up to on. Of course a factory reset was tried but did nothing. One had no load on it at all and the other had a single led load of just a few watts. Is this a failure pattern others are seeing? I have been going through and replacing all of my 2476's wtih 2477's a few at a time now for about a year. Maybe I need to accelerate this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Sounds like the filter capacitors in the power supplies. Are going bad. The DC is low and full of ripple. That the electronics can't tolerate. I have see a few posts on some adventitious folks rebuilding them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 I have had 3 of my older units die on me, two in the exact same way here just in the past month. They are older units, 4.35 and 3.3 made in 2008 and 2009. Both would turn on, then every few seconds, maybe up to 30 they would shut off for a second or two and then turn back on. The white led's would also flip down to off then back up to on. Of course a factory reset was tried but did nothing. One had no load on it at all and the other had a single led load of just a few watts. Is this a failure pattern others are seeing? I have been going through and replacing all of my 2476's wtih 2477's a few at a time now for about a year. Maybe I need to accelerate this? Sounds like the filter capacitors in the power supplies. Are going bad. The DC is low and full of ripple. That the electronics can't tolerate. I have see a few posts on some adventitious folks rebuilding them. Yup, I've rebuilt a few KPL & Switch Linc relays and dimmers over the span of nine years now. The first one didn't go so well because I accidentally put too much heat on the board and it delimated the PCB. I don't know what kind of solder they use in that factory but it took the hottest solder iron I had on hand to melt that blasted thing! Normally it takes mere seconds to heat up, bubble, and blow away. But this solder had to be some kind of high heat solder used at the time ~ other modules I repaired didn't seem to use this high temp solder and any of the other guns, pencils, to heat wand operated just fine. Just a quick note try to keep all the old expired gear and place it in the junk draw. Because some items like the crystal, zener diodes, and other SMT resistors are near impossible to find never mind identify what they are to purchase. Almost anytime I see someone deciding to throw away some old gear that's dead I just scoop it up and place them in the *Parts Box*. Its saved me a few times in having to buy a new piece of hardware. Having said this given the latest hardware offers so much more in terms of features and wider voltage range never mind dual band. Unless this is a cost issue then I humbly suggest replace with new at the pace you feel is appropriate. When time permits take a Sunday and rework a few as a mini project! As an aside I use your method of a compressor instead of the solder wick, solder sucker, etc. When someone walked off with my solder vacuum station a few years I ago the only thing I had was the wick and solder sucker which really doesn't work in small PCB confined spaces. I say if you have a compressor blow that f^cker off . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Some of the lead free ROHS Solder has a higher melting temperature. I have had issues with some of the Insteon Modules myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Some of the lead free ROHS Solder has a higher melting temperature. I have had issues with some of the Insteon Modules myself. I honestly thought because some of the factories say they follow ROHS compliance they didn't. And thus assumed it was using lead and that translated to a higher melting point. It was sure a learning point watching the board separate which at the time was pretty upsetting considering I spent all the time hunting for all the gear to melt it off! Worst 30 minutes of my life ~ Just wasted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Yeah, I wasn't really planning on fixing them. As mentioned, the new ones are enough better that I have been replacing working ones at a steady rate and am about 1/2 way through. But I still have over 30 to go. I haven't really been doing the oldest ones first, which maybe I should. Or maybe there are certain rev versions that are better than others and I should replace those first. I just used my last spare 2477D yesterday. So hopefully no issues until the next sale. I am expecting another 25% holidat sale, combined with the 5pack discount and free shipping, the cost comes down to something like $31/switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Worst 30 minutes of my life ~ Just wasted! I'd say that you're doing well if the worst 30 minutes of your life was wasted time I'll have to agree, however, then you'll never, ever get a second chance restoring those 1800 seconds.Wasted, just wasted. Were you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 When it rains it pours. Lost another switch last night. This time a 2476S. Now I am out of 2477S spares. Good news, though, now all my on/off switches are 2477S's. So maybe I am good for a while. This one simply "shut off". If I pushed and held the set button, the white led would blink at its bottom position. Otherwise, notta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I'd say that you're doing well if the worst 30 minutes of your life was wasted time I'll have to agree, however, then you'll never, ever get a second chance restoring those 1800 seconds.Wasted, just wasted. Were you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk When it rains it pours. Lost another switch last night. This time a 2476S. Now I am out of 2477S spares. Good news, though, now all my on/off switches are 2477S's. So maybe I am good for a while. This one simply "shut off". If I pushed and held the set button, the white led would blink at its bottom position. Otherwise, notta. You must have incredibly back luck didn't you also endure that tact switch issue back in the day?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Bring back memories of the Tact Switch Issue. I can remember seeing them say we didn't know how to push the paddle correctly or we messed it up with a paddle color change kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Bring back memories of the Tact Switch Issue. I can remember seeing them say we didn't know how to push the paddle correctly or we messed it up with a paddle color change kit. Truth be told this issue left me on the fence for quite awhile and almost didn't invest into Insteon. I wasn't very happy with how it was initially handled but than later commons sense prevailed and they also extended the warranty to 7 years. Oh the good old days . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Yeah, I wasn't really planning on fixing them. As mentioned, the new ones are enough better that I have been replacing working ones at a steady rate and am about 1/2 way through. But I still have over 30 to go. I haven't really been doing the oldest ones first, which maybe I should. Or maybe there are certain rev versions that are better than others and I should replace those first. I just used my last spare 2477D yesterday. So hopefully no issues until the next sale. I am expecting another 25% holidat sale, combined with the 5pack discount and free shipping, the cost comes down to something like $31/switch. If you plan on replacing a quantity of devices, then you may want to contact SH for a discount. Try both email and phone calls. In the latter case, one person who answers may not know how to assist you, just call back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You must have incredibly back luck didn't you also endure that tact switch issue back in the day?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes, I had to replace all my devices back then. But I had fewer devices. Maybe 30. Many of my current devices are those replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjbauer Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 When it rains it pours. Lost another switch last night. This time a 2476S. Now I am out of 2477S spares. Good news, though, now all my on/off switches are 2477S's. So maybe I am good for a while. Right now Amazon has a coupon that works for the 2477d and 2477s where a person can get 25% of of the price of the device. Plus them seem to have pretty good price on the 2477s as well. Makes for some cheap spares. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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