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Anyone dissect a 2406H phase coupler?


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I installed a phase coupler a few years ago.  For the past couple years I've had some wonky communications with some devices that are a ways away from the PLM and may be on a different phase.

I'm wondering if the phase coupler failed. They are no longer available from Smarthome.  They say to plug a signal extender - at $39.99 each, into outlets hung off each phase of the circuit panel.

I'm just wondering if anyone has taken a 2406 apart and tested/refurbished it.  If you did, what did you find?

Thx

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5 minutes ago, dco43054 said:

I installed a phase coupler a few years ago.  For the past couple years I've had some wonky communications with some devices that are a ways away from the PLM and may be on a different phase.

I'm wondering if the phase coupler failed. They are no longer available from Smarthome.  They say to plug a signal extender - at $39.99 each, into outlets hung off each phase of the circuit panel.

I'm just wondering if anyone has taken a 2406 apart and tested/refurbished it.  If you did, what did you find?

Thx

Phase couplers became obsolete with the advent of dual-band devices. There is a four tap test that flashes different colours to tell you what devices are on what phase and communicating.

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I have not taken a 2406 apart but have their X10 Dryer Socket version.

It is most likely an across AC rated capacitor {.1uf} and a small coil {18mH} to roughly tune it to the Insteon power line frequency. In series. Connected across the two incoming lines.  If the capacitor or coil failed open you would get no coupling. If the capacitor failed shorted. 220VAC would be across the coil and it would instantly burn out. Maybe a brief puff of smoke.

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31 minutes ago, Brian H said:

I have not taken a 2406 apart but have their X10 Dryer Socket version.

It is most likely an across AC rated capacitor {.1uf} and a small coil {18mH} to roughly tune it to the Insteon power line frequency. In series. Connected across the two incoming lines.  If the capacitor or coil failed open you would get no coupling. If the capacitor failed shorted. 220VAC would be across the coil and it would instantly burn out. Maybe a brief puff of smoke.

I was guessing something like that.  I'll be pulling mine out off the electrical panel today and taking a look inside.  Hopefully, I can just repair it, rather than one of the other alternatives.

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7 hours ago, Mustang65 said:

I installed a 300Volt .1uf capacitor when I purchased the house back in 1998. I was using X10 back then. Still working with Insteon.

I think the capacitor is from line-to-line, not line-to-neutral or line-to-ground...  which is nominally 230VAC, which puts the peak voltage at 1.414 x Vrms, or roughly 325 V peak...  probably fine given tolerances and all, but I'd prefer a 400V cap for that application...

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Did you check the  small choke coil to the left of the burned capacitor? If the capacitor shorted before blowing up. You had 230VAC across L1 the small coil and it probably burned open. Photo not too clear on the coil but it does look like it may have a burned body.

I am surprised the capacitor is a 105K (1uf) capacitor. If I read the colored bands on the coil. Brown Green Back Black. That is a 15uH 20% tolerance coil and to tune it to the Insteon power line frequency. It would be a 104K (.1uF)

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Thanks for the added information.

The photo is not too clear as pointed out and the coil may have been burned if the capacitor shorted.

1.5uH coil and 1uF cap.  Then it is tuned to the Insteon power line frequency.

I do think a capacitor with a  higher voltage rating or one specifically made for Across AC power lines use would have been  a better choice.

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