matapan Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 I've got a number of Switchlinc Dimmers with various issues, from non-responding paddles to noisy (buzzing) switches, to being outright dead. I've seen various threads over time which I can't find any more on repairs. Has anyone got some pointers on repairing these switches, both 2476D and 2477D(H)? Specifically, is it a good idea to drill out the metal rivet holding the PCB to the aluminum frame? Should this be riveted back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 I also don't remember seeing any threads here on the SwitchLinc Dimmer repairs. I do know there was some early 2476D and 2476S paddle issues. Was a bad tact switch or both if On and Off didn't work that the paddles activated. They would click but not make contact. I was told I didn't know how to correctly push the paddles excuse. So many had issues. Smarthome actually finally gave us a seven year warranty on them. The buzzing ones probably have a filter capacitor going bad. Most likely the 2467D as it has a power line derived power supply. The 2477D(H). has a switching power supply and probably the same issues as we see in the 2413S PLM. I kind of remember a tutorial on the Coccoontech forums on repairing the tact switches in a 2476D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matapan Posted January 4, 2021 Author Share Posted January 4, 2021 I found the tutorial on replacing the tact switches on X10 generation Smarthome switches. They are relevant in repairing Switchlincs with bad switches. The 2477DH has only one electrolytic capacitor, fewer than the ones on the PLM. Opening up a 2477D shortly..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 The Triac for the dimming is riveted to the metal outer frame. You will have to remove it and then find a way to reattach it to the frame after repairs. To get to the tact switch side of the PCB. The capacitor in a 2477D should be replaced with one that is designed for the high frequency switching supplies output. The rest of the capacitors in one are probably surface mounted ones. If lucky tantalum. I just looked at the 2477D internal photos in the FCC Database. I did see at least one surface {maybe tantalum} mounted capacitor next to the through hole main electrolytic capacitor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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