apostolakisl Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Anyone ever repaired a synchrolinc? I have two, they work, but they communicate very poorly. They are power line only. I have found if I plug in a dual band appliancelinc and then plug the synchrolinc into it, that I get good com and it works as perfectly. But anything less than directly plugged into a dual band device and it mostly fails. Not sure if this is just another time that replacing caps will fix it. Most cap issues relate to power supply, and this is not a power supply issue. The unit seems to power itself fine. It is a comm issue and it seems as though it has just gradually gotten weaker and weaker over the years. They don't make synchrolincs anymore so it would be nice to have these guys working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techman Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 I think your only option is to continue to have a dual band device close to the Synchrolinc. That's been the case for me. It's also possible that the load controlled by the Synchrolinc is degrading its powerline signal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 53 minutes ago, Techman said: I think your only option is to continue to have a dual band device close to the Synchrolinc. That's been the case for me. It's also possible that the load controlled by the Synchrolinc is degrading its powerline signal. It is two washing machines. Has always been. But the com issues used to be mild and gradually got worse. Now it doesn't com at all without the dual band device. So I think something in the unit is gradually failing. I suppose both washers could be getting "noisier", but I doubt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hart2hart Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Those units were very prone to failure either use. I had one on washing machine and another dishwasher. They were both replaced at least twice when they could be bought. I replaced capacitors and they lasted longer but they had not failed when I replaced them. One of those two has died and I replaced it with a zwave plug that is working well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted September 29, 2023 Author Share Posted September 29, 2023 @hart2hart Basically, I am wondering if I should open it up and replace caps or if I am wasting my time doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techman Posted September 29, 2023 Share Posted September 29, 2023 @apostolakisl If you have Zwave then a good alternative is the Aeotec Smartswitch 6 and Smartswitch 7. The upside to using these is that they show line voltage and current draw and provide the same functionality as the Synchrolinc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hart2hart Posted September 29, 2023 Share Posted September 29, 2023 @hart2hart Basically, I am wondering if I should open it up and replace caps or if I am wasting my time doing that.I replaced the capacitors on the last set bought long before they normally failed. Those lasted many times longer than ones that is not replaced capacitors and just trashed and replaced. Obviously the later ones may have had other upgrades fromSmarthome. I’d replace capacitors as a little insurance. The ones on the washing machine always failed much faster and I probably replaced it 4 or 6 times mostly in and but last out of warranty. Not sure if current draw could impact its life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 You may want to try the capacitors. As it has the same 6.8uF/250V capacitor in it as the 2413S/U PLM and I/OLinc. That would indicate it has a switching power supply running at a high frequency. Normally using a capacitor designed for a switching power supply. That Smarthome didn't always use in their modules with switchers. If it is completely dead. There is also an inline fuse. From the line input pin the the line input on the board. It has a current sensing metal strip from the neutral line to the neutral to the output socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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