How to use vehicle garage door buttons with ISY?

[snownh2o2]

I am wondering if anyone has a good/easy way to use the extra garage door opener buttons in my truck to control scenes. I already have an IOLinc attached to the garage door, however I do not always park inside and I would like to use my spare buttons to turn or the spot lights and arm/disarm an alarm without opening the garage door.

 

I already considered purchasing an old broken door opener coupled to another IOLinc, but I am thinking that there has got to be a better way.

 

All suggestions are appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Matt

[apostolakisl]

Your car almost certainly has a homelink system.

 

You need a homelink receiver. They make kits designed to convert non-homelink garage doors into homelink garage doors. This same kit could instead be used with an IO link.

 

These kits start at about $70. Maybe you can find one cheaper. If you can figure out how to tear apart an old homelink compatible garage door opener and use the receiver, then go for it. But the time involved may not justify the $70 savings.

 

EDIT: I just googled it and found a "lear car2u" device that seems to be what you want for about $25. I didn't really scour the instructions but at first glance it appears to accept the rolling codes from homelink to close a momentary contact (which you could connect to an iolink)

 

EDIT: Also this one looks like it should work http://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com ... nplre.html

[andyf0]

Here you go, it was a SmartHome project a while ago.

 

http://www.smarthome.com/projects-8a.html

[apostolakisl]

Here you go, it was a SmartHome project a while ago.

 

http://www.smarthome.com/projects-8a.html

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that x10 rf device is not rolling code. Assuming I am right, I would avoid using that to control your alarm system.

 

I found this on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/635LM-Craftsman-L ... B000F5IL7Y It is rolling code and only $25 with shipping. It will connect to the IO link you already have so $25 should be your only cost.

 

I think I might get one myself.

[snownh2o2]

Thanks guys. I finally just got some time to sit down. Gonna start reading about it now.

 

Matt

[snownh2o2]

Ok, think the the liftmaster is the right choice for me. I recall seeing the x10 way awhile back and actually have the parts to do it, however my x10 luck has never been too good.

 

I found it for $13.42 + 4.99 shipping on Amazon. It is the 315mhz version which appears to be within the Homelink range.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Plug-I ... r+reciever

 

I will need to order two, one for entry lighting , and one for the steroeo system. I often find myself listening to a talk show and find myself sitting in the truck in the driveway until it takes a commercial break. Now I will be able to hear it outside and then continue with it when I enter the house.

 

I was unable to locate a unit the had more than one output, but these seem cheap enough and it will still have the other half of the IOLinc to use for something else.

 

I will order then tomorrow unless I hear a reason why not to overnight. I still haven't figured out if it is safe enough for the alarm. Modes it use rolling codes or is it just the single 315mhz pulse?

 

Let me know if anyone has some insight.

 

Thanks,

Matt

[apostolakisl]

I am pretty sure the 315mhz does not use rolling codes.

 

I did buy two of the ones with rolling codes off amazon for a total of $46. So you only save about $10 going with the non-rolling model.

 

Also, don't forget, that you will need to be able to train your car. The only way to do that is to have an RF transmitter that works on the 315mhz system.

[snownh2o2]

I just ordered my two....who's I had more homelink buttons in the truck....already thinking about having the superman theme play every time I exit the truck

[snownh2o2]

I got my transceivers. Hooked one up to the IOLinc and manually it works fine. I have yet to get it to read the codes from my extra vehicle buttons. Liftmastsmsetup failed. It is possible that there are nomcodes currentlymsemandmtherefore nonemtombe learned. I am guessing that I will need to first change my garage door code, learn that different code to my truck, then try the Liftmaster programming again. Finally I will the set the garage code back to its original code so it works again with the correct button. I will keep you guys updated when I get a chance.

 

Anyone else had any luck yet?

 

Matt

[apostolakisl]

Did you get the rolling code model?

 

If not, and your vehicle buttons are currently programmed with rolling codes, then it won't work. You would have to erase your vehicle memory and reteach using a non-rolling code hand held remote and then use your vehicle or that same remote to teach the liftmaster device you just bought.

 

I received my two devices several days ago but have just been too busy to hook them up. I got the rolling code model.

[snownh2o2]

Ok, so heres the update. The HomeLinc buttons in your vehicle WILL work to control you ISY.

 

Here are the parts that I used:

I/O Linc (sensor terminals only)

Liftmaster 635LM-01 (revciever)

Chamberlain 953EV (handheld remote control - only needed for initial setup)

Homelink Remote (normally an in-vehicle (sunvisor) button)

 

Please know that this is exactly what I used, however I think there are many different combinations availible that will work. This combo uses rolling codes (known as Security+) on or around the 390Mhz bands. It is important that the frequency matches between the reciever (Liftmaster) and the remote (Chamberlain.) Not ALL universal remotes cover all bands.

 

Now that my install is finished, I am glad I have the more secure rolling codes, however the initial setup was much harder to figure out. The most important thing to know is: The Chamberlain recievers DO NOT have ANY preset codes initially set in them from the factory. Furthermore, Homelink buttons must copy a pre-setup code from a remote (rolling) or have a fixed code entered manually (dip switches.)

 

Fixed codes are easy. Find someone with a garage door opener with dip switches. Have them write down their code. Then set the dip switches to a new code. Link this new code to your vehicles HomeLink button. Repeat for more buttons. Reset the dipswitches back to the original settings. Done! You have your codes to enter in a reciever that uses fixed codes (NOT the Liftmaster 635LM) and the garage door still works with all of its originally setup remotes and its operation will not be affected by the operation of your new homelink buttons.

 

Rolling codes are a whole different animal. In this type of setup, each Homelink button clones itself to a controller rather than a reciever. Hence you must have a seperate controller or availible remote controll button (Chamberlain) for each reciever (Liftmaster) and cannot simple copy your garage door code.

 

Setup starts by putting the remote control in pairing mode. Then it is paired to the reciever by pushing in the smart pairing button on the Liftmaster. If the pairing is sucessful, pressing the remote should activate the reciever. Next set is to 'clone' the Chamberlain remote to your Homelink button. This isn't too difficult but you will need to look in your vehicles owners manual for the exact process. Finally attach a pair for wires from the Liftmaster reciever to any Insteon status sensor. I used some open IOLinc status termainals in which I had previously only been using the relay portion of the IO. [search the forum and you will see a post on using an IO Linc to lock, unlock, and remote start your vehicle. I will be updating it tonight if time allow to show how the project ended.] Finally adjust your sensor settings with the ISY and try out some new programs. Turn on the entrance lights, or even arm/disarm the security system adding a confirmation with a flash of your garage lights.

 

Also for some ballpark pricing, the Chamberlain remote control with three buttons (will program up to 3 recievers) was $18 new on ebay. One is neede for every 3 recievers used. The rolling code reciever were $18.50 each on Amazon. One is needed for each Homelink button. Finally the I/OLincs are $30 at Smarthome if you wait until a 20% off sale and buy 4 at a time.

 

To save some money, I think you can purchase a kit with both a reciever and a remote control. Also if the rolling code feature is not important, I think those components are a few dollars cheaper. Finally, an entire IOLinc is not really needed for this project. All you need to do is sense the status of the HomeLink button press. Any Insteon product that will sense status is fine. Also if you have Global Cache or Elk products in you system you can probably sence contact closure from the reciever without an extra Insteon module.

 

Hope this helps,

Matt

[apostolakisl]

I ended up buying these things as well and pretty much did the same thing.

 

I bought 2 of the units I listed above that receive the rolling code and programming 2 buttons in my car.

 

I used my Elk panel to receive the input. Since I was down to my last unused zone on Elk, I put the 2 devices in parrallel connected to the zone, but I also put a resistor on one of the units.

 

So, when neither button is being pushed, the zone is open (14v)

When the one button is pushed, it is closed (0v)

When the other button (with resistor) is pushed, it is closed, eol resistor (7v).

 

Since ISY and Elk are linked, I set the ISY to look for open, short, and eol.

[chris932]

You guys are genius! I have one of these mounted and unused ever since I replaced the opener. Now I can throw away more X10 garbage.