switchlinc dimmer question

[GregE]

I just installed a dual band switchlinc and a switchlinc relay to control some lights and a exhaust fan in my bathroom. I turned off the breaker and did the install. When I turned the breaker back on these 2 worked fine but I noticed another switchlinc dimmer in the bathroom in a separate location no longer had the led indicators lighting. Any ideas what caused this or if I can fix it? It only wanted to go on and off if I double tapped it until I did a restore device in my ISY?

 

Let me know if I should put this on the Smarthome forum. After I typed it I just realized I was on the ISY forum but I know there are lots of the same people on both of them.

[GregE]

I went ahead and posted on Smarthome too.

[apostolakisl]

It is possible that the hot for that switch is daisy chained through one of the boxes you were working in and you may have inadvertently disconnected it.

 

I would suggest pulling the non-working switch and checking the hot to see if it has power.

[GregE]

I can do that but it is powering the lights so I would think it has power.

[oberkc]

I can do that but it is powering the lights so I would think it has power.

 

So, the indicator light is not working, but that switch (with failed indicator) still appears to be otherwise functioning correctly? If so, I can only imagine that it has malfunctioned. Still, I would check wiring. Maybe ground or neutral is marginal.

[apostolakisl]

I kind of assumed the switch was dead based on your original post, but now that I re-read I understand that the double tap worked.

 

The simplest thing to try first is just pull the hard disconnect on the switch for 5 or 10 seconds and then push it back in. If that doesn't work, try factory resetting the switch and restoring it with the ISY.

[Brian H]

If you try the Air Gap power cycle.

When you push it in. Only go to its normal position. If you push it all the way in you can factory reset it.

[GregE]

I checked my connections and tried resetting it but no luck. I had another one so I replaced it and the LED's are all working fine now. I brought the other one to work with me. Can I take a power cable and connect it to the switch with the load wire capped off and see if the LED's work? I thought that I shoudl test it again before seeing if it is still in warranty.

[LeeG]

Yes, the SwitchLinc can be powered that way. I connect all my wired devices that way for testing before installing. Most any hardware or home improvement store sell appliance cords. They have a plug on one end and bare wires on the other. Makes it easy to wire nut the Neutral and Line connections. Using an appliance cord is also an easy way to change plug/power points if the device is having communications problems.

[apostolakisl]

Yes, the SwitchLinc can be powered that way. I connect all my wired devices that way for testing before installing. Most any hardware or home improvement store sell appliance cords. They have a plug on one end and bare wires on the other. Makes it easy to wire nut the Neutral and Line connections. Using an appliance cord is also an easy way to change plug/power points if the device is having communications problems.

 

I do the same thing and it works very well. I do a bench test on all my new devices and program them prior to installing them. In the event of a defective unit, it saves the hassle of installing/uninstalling/reinstalling (which can be quite the PITA in a multi-switch gang box). Just remember to cap the red wire as it becomes hot when the switch is turned on. And of course don't plug it in until after all the wires are connected and capped.

[GregE]

Thanks guys!! I hooked it up and the LED's were off. I then did a factory reset by pulling out the airgap and then pushing it in for 10 seconds. THat got the LED's working again. I tried doing that while installed but never could get the long tone to sound so I knew I really hadn't done it. Glad that took care of things and I don't have to send it back.