-
Posts
5283 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Profile Information
-
Location
: West Bloomfield TWP, Mi (Greater Detroit)
Recent Profile Visitors
5178 profile views
paulbates's Achievements
-
To add to @DennisC's great answer, UDI offers consulting help. It would be a good idea to buy that and let them remote in and evaluate and propose an higher level migration plan for you. Scroll to the bottom of this page. https://www.universal-devices.com/store/#top-row
-
Glad to hear you're working The capacitors can be repaired if you're good with a soldering iron and working on electronics. If not (I'm not), I would dispose of it
-
Can you post 10 - 20 log entries, especially ones that repeat?
-
There are those here a lot more knowledgeable about electrical theory and problems than me, but they haven't chimed in, so here goes: There are similar stories here on the forum. Here's one, a long read but worth it Temporarily disconnect the powerwall from the house power long enough to confirm that the problem goes away when you do. If it does, see 3. below. If it doesn't, you'll need to go breaker by break to establish where it's coming from, then go to 3. below when you find it. It seems likely it's the powerwall given the timing, but powerline actual problems vs perceived problems have been a slippery, unpredictable slope in my experience. Consider filtering options, which will be a guessing game. Insteon makes a plug in filter but I'm guessing that's not how your powerwall is wired to your house Insteon makes these. They are designed to go near the flicker light, but I would suggest trying it near the powerwall. There are 2 types and Insteon mentions that they can't say what will work in what situation, just try, This is the link to the install page. Not that expensive to try out. Good luck!
-
Hard to say for sure, but relatively easy to eliminate as the culprit.
-
It's possible. I believe the admin console steps through the list of devices and won't avoid sensors unless that battery option is set. It's easy to try and see if it will complete.
-
I have had great experience with couplers. I had a signallinc from Insteon at my last house. Now that they don't make them any longer, I built my own from parts I found on mouser from a recommendation from Insteon for my new house . The parts were like $15 delivered. They have to go into your electric panel, so you have to be comfortable with that or find an electrician to do it for you.' If you're interested I can dig up the order from mouser
-
Do you have battery devices like motion or door sensors? Those have to be individually put in set mode for their turn. There's a little battery icon with a +/-on the top of the admin console you can click. It will avoid all battery devices so powerline devices finish. Then you unclick it and do each battery device one at a time
-
To add to @Techman's comments... outdated firmware means that it's i1, not i2 Insteon protocol and it wont support more modern Insteon devices, or not as well as they should be.
-
I'm guessing @Guy Lavoie is right. It's a long shot, but easy to try: factory reset it followed by a restore device. Older Insteon switches that run for years can "flake out" but sometimes be recovered this way
-
For X10, enter the house code and unit code, eg C14. For Insteon, use the "Start Linking" option under the linking menu, and then press the set button. Do it order, or even one at a time if all over the house to keep it straight... or have a helper with a smartphone or walkie talkie to help keep it straight
-
I would order it from Insteon. I think the USB is cleaner, but if you have the cable and your eisy is already configed for it, serial probably makes sense. This is the procedure You would back up the eisy first. If your PLM is dying there may be some polluted links in the eisy's Insteon tables that will get backed up with it... usually fixed with individual "restore device"s based on which ones have problems. Also wireless devices have to be put in set mode and restored individually
-
That's an old PLM... 21st week of 2016. And if memory serves me correctly, 2016 was in the era of bad capacitors = bad PLMs. I'd order a new one and replace it on your terms rather than when it dies at an inopportune time You have a backup from right before you set up your eisy? When you get a new PLM, I'd restore that backup to the eISY, and then "Restore PLM" from that backup. Also, if your PLM is with in 15' of your eisy, you can get a USB PLM
-
It's never a bad idea to suspect a PLM 🤪. Seriously, the age of the PLM matters. Can you shoot a picture of the back with all numbers/IDs/stickers shown and post back here? Also, I would: Unplug the PLM, wait 10 seconds and plug back in Repeat the eisy power on/off.. did it report the same problems? Run the "4 tap test" on your access point or other plug in devices. Go look at your Insteon devices and see how they respond to it. Keep track of which is on which power leg, that will help with the next recommendation below. Start keeping track of the devices it reports in the messages, look for commonalities like which power leg they are on.