paulbates

Can you shoot a picture of the Insteon address on the sticker on the device? A number of us have run into this digit confusion before and maybe can help translate by seeing it

Hoping that means i3 capable.

At a Insteon call early in the year or late last year, it was announced that the upgraded PLM was coming out "in summer of this year" 25. Summer came and went. One of our members, I think Brian H, asked them recently if it was coming and told no.

I've had multiple of the older on/offs at my last house for over 10 years in southeast Michigan.. -20 to 100 degrees I installed the i3 outlet, the one at your link, 2 years ago. It runs our patio gazebo lights year round and a home made drip sprinkler in the summer. Same weather and no problems with it. A few things The outside jboxes can be smaller or crowded, especially with an older home I recommend a cover box to screw in where a smaller outdoor faceplate would be so the wires and everything are covered. Caulk the edges of the plate cover and the house. I lost an i3 outlet because I didn't get a good enough cover.. the grill was right in front of it and water from rain splashed right in. Water was dripping out of the sockets when I removed it.... not insteon's fault. These are not GFIC. If there is another GFIC outlet, it needs to be between the Insteon outlet and the electrical panel. Wire it up and press the test botton on the GFIC. If if power remains at the insteon outlet, replace the breaker the outlet leads to with a GFIC breaker.

You can delete the switch from the ISY and re-add it. Caveats are: if the switch is in scenes, in which case the switch will need to be re-added to the scene(s). Likely you'll have to go back to iox programs that referenced the original switch and re-add it if necessary Also, another method of copying the file. isy backups are bunch of zipped folders which follow the path of the file in question here. The individual file could be copied out of the backup and moved to the eisy. Here are high level directions (off the top of my head): Take a copy of a backup file, open it in a zip app and navigate to the file location Copy/unzip the file to the local storage of the machine you're restoring SSH into the eisy, use that or SCP, etc to copy the file to the right location in the eisy Reboot the eisy

You'll need to define a variable that has a precision (Prec column) of 4 (4 digits to the right of the decimal) to copy the value from the device into, then do these iox 'Then' statements: Variable = Emporia Node (kw) Variable = Variable * 1000 (This converts kW to W) That should give you the watts value to take action in other iox conditional statements. ** Remember to use the eISY variable type of State (State Tab) with a Precision of 4, if you plan to use the variable for iox If statements

I made a similar post. I shut off all notifications from the app as most of mine come through the notification plugin. Had difficulty determining which of the 3 notifications was doing it, but shutting them all off stopped them coming (at ~3am) until there is a way to limit it.

The error means that the ISY's definition file for that switch, /FILES/CONF/50B976.REC, has become corrupted or otherwise unreadable by iox, so it does not have definition/reference for it on your system. Likely nothing is wrong with the switch. If you have an ISY with an SD card for its hard drive, likely that's going bad. If you have an eisy, something happened to that that file and it needs to be replaced, by a recent restore if you have it.

Is this with an eisy, it sounds like an isy problem? It looks be the sd card if going bad. You can remove it and try running an eraser over the contacts and cleaning with alcohol. If you search the forums for SD card you should find more detailed info. Also it may be time to replace the SD card

This happened to me when I first set up my eisy. Let it set for another day and it should act as you're expecting

I don't, the one I use triggers on being in or out of a certain consumption amount. But I think the results are about runtime and an approximate power consumption per unit of time. Is the ventilator multi-speed? If it's single speed you should be able to calc the number by measuring steady-state power usage from outlet and then multiplying it out with minutes (or seconds) of runtime, based on the program model above.

One thing to note about the Yolink wireless sensors, at least the 8003, is that they don't instantly update. I have one that checks humidity rise in my master bath shower to turn on the fan. The display on the unit will show the humidity going up, but it can be anywhere from almost instant to 7 - 10 minutes before the Sensor tells the hub to tell the plugin that it's working. That's not the case with the yolink outlet, it's usually a second or 2 from the dryer getting turned on to the fan getting switched on.

I've seen this with older Insteon device that have been in service for years. I could have a working virtual circuit of Insteon devices in a scene.. but if I went to add or change something in the scene, that device would always have the green 0101 next to it, meaning it would not take updates.

I do that with Xfinity/Comcast. I have my own cable modem and a router with network management features including a DHCP assignment table.

One way to do what you want is to install the smartplug and find the energy levels for when the ventilator is idle versus on. You can then use the app to set an alarm state for when the ventilator is on: You can write an Iox program to detect an alarm state of "On" and take action with iox programs using repeat loops with variables counting up minutes or seconds of runtime. You can count cycle time as well as number of cycles count this way. I use this approach for control my 2nd floor laundry vent fan by monitoring the dryer's on (alarm) state