paulbates

If it's workable, I'd pull the plug on the MS for the approximate amount of time it takes the ALL ON event to happen and see if it happens again. I had an MS 2 in my garage for a couple of years, on power not batteries. Worked perfectly during that time, ... until recently.... It recently started having problems and I tried all of the suggestions I gave above and had problems changing parameters such that they would stick. It was sending A LOT of messages for its motion sense. Factory resetting, etc had no effect so I replaced it with something else.

Insteon MS and other Insteon wireless devices are near the top of the instigators list. Is the MS on batteries? In addition to the restore device suggestion, you can try factory resetting it and adding new batteries and then restore device. My experience is that lower the battery voltage gets on the MS, the more un predictable the behavior gets. I eventually put my MSs on a spring/fall battery rotation, ignoring the battery node from the device... and factory resetting them / restore device every time

Did you make a recent move to eisy? What color is the programs icon if you look at the program's status... is it yellow. If it's yellow, it might be due to migration, and you need to go into the program, re-pick the right item to replace undefined and resave it

Adding to the speculation, it could be argued there'll be another eisy family product in the future with the necessary HW. Having said that, AI code can be written server side on existing platforms like Claude, today.

Back in the portal, where you changed having an Alexa spoken call a scene instead of a switch, you can change it from calling a scene to calling a program, Having said that, it's unclear, from a diagnostic point of view, how that will affect the problem other than trying it. On the one hand, I had your described kind of problem with the alexa in my ecobee thermostat over a year ago. I used it for a year where it worked great, and then it was a combination of problems: Either said "hmmm I can't do that" (or something like that)... or act like it did it, and nothing happened. The voice isn't that important to me so I just shut it off. If you follow the kind of procedure @IndyMike suggested in your last post; go to Tools/Diagnotics/Event Viewer and set it to level 3. Repeat the steps that are causing the problem and post The steps you took The output from the event viewer at the same time

Your timing is interesting because these have recently been coming to a head for me as well. My Insteon network is mature and in cleanup / maintenance mode. In fact it's shrinking as all remaining Insteon sensors are migrating to Yolink. It's now dealing with these 2 little leftover problems... And more of a WAF thing.. "why does that flicker sometimes?"... and it bugs me as well. We'll be selling this house in a few years and want to get this solved and move on to other things I just exchanged emails with Insteon about these flickering / flickering on Insteon traffic, and their recommendation is try combinations of the flicker capacitors; that they can help in many cases but sometimes don't do anything. As much as these micro modules are a perfect solution for where they are and what they're doing, it's a mining operation to get them in/out. I don't look forward to one more journey in there.. let alone possibly more fiddling with capacitors that may not do anything. Everything else Insteon in my house works as expected.. so I'm raising the white flag on this one and replacing the micro dimmers with micro on-offs. I originally made these rooms dimmers "just cuz" and in several years of use in these active living areas, they have never been dimmed in any setting other than me testing it during installation. In other areas we do dim Insteon n-ways and it works great but not at these locations.

I have 2 of these. Each powering one LED can recessed light bulbs. They are 5-6 year feit 9w, 75w equivalent, LED can lights. They occasionally get the dreaded traffic flicker. I have a number of i3 paddles, 7 of them are controlling the exact same bulbs in the exact same fixtures, some up to 5 LEDs per switch... no problems. I'm thinking of order the blue/yellow flicker capacitor kit from insteon. I've been avoiding it as both of these will be a mining operation to get out. But given the weather I should get going

My house has a number of recessed LED can lights that are over 6 years old. There are 10 in the kitchen and the loads are split between 2 i3 paddles and micro dimmer module. The one on the micro dimmer module started dying. The existing bulbs are all the older Feit 9 watt warm glow 2700k from Costco. I didn't want to replace the whole room, just the one. My local Lowe's hardware only had things I hadn't heard of, including this Ultitech. It works well: It looks almost identical both in fixture style and lit bulb appearance to the Feits. The group dimming is really accurate and tracks down to the very lowest dim level where it goes out a little early, but that could be blamed on different switch type and the way the load is spread. I never do that anyway. I'm happy with them for $12 vs what Amazon wants for the same Feits

I had this kind of problem in the distant past, it was an old cable drop from the pole/service to the house. The service got flaky sometimes when it was raining. The service provider at the time replaced it and that resolved it. I remember I walked around with him as he checked it out. He remved the connection from the drop to the house... shook it and water came out!

It's not that hard. In the UDI portal where you defined the relationship with the Insteon switch, you move the entry for the switch, and add an entry for the scene instead of the switch. Login to the portal. Tool > Connetivity> Amazon Echo Delete the line for the switch and add the scene

There's a few moving parts here and it's probably best to go through them. (Good brand) Cable modems are not problematic. My arris s33 cable modem about to go into to its 5th year and I've never had to reboot it. If I lose internet, lights on the front tell me that Xfinity is not communicating with the modem, not the modem What brand router do you have? That can be another weak link. In my experience, you get what you pay for with routers. Another complexity is running a VPN. If you have the UDI portal, you can access the eisy without a vpn and without opening ports in your router. Based on what's written, I'm most suspicious of the VPN. How is the VPN endpoint set up in the remote house, what is hosting it?

How old is the unit? I could be that the SD card, where all of the automations are stored, has become unseated or is going bad. Check the below link to docs on this topic. You can first use the docs to find where the sd card is located, take it out (994 unplugged). Rub over the contacts with an eraser, wipe with rubbing alcohol, dry, reinsert and try again. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

To isolate which it is, you can try temporarily adding a 3rd nearby device to the scene as a responder. Switch the SWL - What happens, does the new device also come on? If the new nearby test device comes on, it's the keypad. Keypads can 'lose their way' after long periods of use. If updating the scene or restore device didn't work, factory reset it and restore device.

It made sense to me, I take it as a band-aid-ish way to get around the triac dimmers causing flickering bulbs when full on. I do have a lot of N-ways, and some never get dimmed so I moved them over to on offs rather than trying this. I've been in the house +3 years, there are a ton of led can lights that continue to work so not replacing. I'm using the paddle PS01, but it has the same flags The head scratcher for me is Disable RF? Why? The problem I've had is that they can come from the factory with that turned on. Of course the first one I ran into is as far away from the panel across the house, as many wire feet as you can get..... with plenty of dual band in the area and it was working flaky. I finally looked the flags to see that turned on. Had my out-of-body experiece, changed it and pressed the button. That was over 2 years ago and its been fine.

Eisy and I think policy allow you to add the newer insteon i3 products. If switches die and/or you want to add i3 devices, their not fully supported in the 994.