jec6613

Youi don't need any programs - if the MS is sending both on and off, you just need a scene to handle it.

If you transfer in the portal, that takes care of that part (at least it did for me). I also had my Eisy take over the IP of the Polisy, so I didn't need to change local programming.

I actually have a couple commercially made combiners, I use one to tie in a subwoofer where I only have RCA stereo output, it's quite handy. But yeah, I was just going to remix any MP3's I want into mono if there's no setting. Mine is a Niles system, so similar idea, and I'll probably end up with a Russound system in the next couple of years since the Niles is about 8 years old and discontinued.

Curious, is there the ability to set the audioplayer to Mono mode for output into an existing paging system, even if the source mp3 is stereo? I have other methods to achieve the end result I'd like, Mono audio isn't exactly high tech, but if there happens to be some buried setting, that seems much the simplest.

For what it's worth, I'm going to use this to replace some general paging notifications. Another use would be front door greetings tied in with facial recognition - niche, but cool.

This is exactly what I did the other day, worked flawlessly. If you're using PG3, you'll need to back that up as well, but restoring from backup was butter smooth.

I ended up having my Polisy in service - originally for PG2/PG3 and later as an ISY994 replacement once IoX was a thing - since January of 2020, and just replaced it with the Eisy this morning. Four years of service, and I could have ran it for another year at least before EOL, if not longer, as being x86 and knowing how FreeBSD works it could probably run for much longer, perhaps without new features. That's not bad at all, IMHO.

I do both to be honest. Generally though, a GFCI trip is caused by a faulty GFCI. Newer ones are both more sensitive to actually ground faults, and have fewer nuisance trips. I've only had one go bad, but my brother has had a few dozen. If you're comfortable, usually it's easier to just replace, and if it keeps tripping then call the sparky.

Side note: the Honeywell T6 thermostat also has a power loss alarm, so I use that to detect my HVAC circuit. And I have enough that I can reliably detect a power loss leading to generator start.

Bigger issue for us in the US is they're currently out of stock. Hopefully resolved soon! I've got a few to migrate.

The trouble with HA devices is that, by and large, they remain quiet and dormant except for a once a day heartbeat. You'll need to run a periodic query to see if a device is responding, and then have some error handling, it's not terribly pretty. I solved this with the new Zooz ZAC38. It doesn't solve per se a specific Insteon device offline, but it does have a small battery and fires an alarm when it loses power itself. I spread them around (and replaced a number of much older range extenders) and voila, I have circuit monitoring all over my house.

It definitely doesn't use UPnP at all, because it works and my UPnP is shut off everywhere, so it's using a stateful connection (and I think some DNS-NAT trickery, though I don't know what the web side does).

Pretty much this. Runs great on a server with hard-wired connectivity to the Polisy that never sleeps - otherwise, just close it when done.

@Michel Kohanim If it makes you feel better, much bigger companies have been delayed for far longer *cough*Ikea*cough*. Apparently, it's not as easy as it looks!

I had this one, switched to the 2007 to get S2 support. Same basic thermostat, one has S2 smart start, didn't even need to re-wire anything.

Yes, and they work really well.

Honeywell T6 Z-Wave. It works very well - and also has a power loss reporting node that will report if the power goes out if it has batteries installed. Quite handy.

Store temperature in variables and compare the variables.

Did it this morning for PG3x update, also got 5.8.0... any changelog yet?

Have you updated the firmware to the latest yet? The Z-Wave 800 stuff is still early days, that'd be my first step. Second would be to enable the Z-Wave compatibility mode, if that doesn't work. ZEN32 Scene Controller Change Log - Zooz Support Center (getzooz.com)

Back in the old Insteon forum days (days of yore..) somebody took a poke at the deep documentation and determined that you can indeed sever the front keypad from the back control, including the fast on, creating an additional device in their ISY (so an 8 button keypad would have an xx.xx.xx.9 device added) to control the connected load. I don't recall that it was easy to do, and obviously the ISY doesn't have the built-in functionality, but it is technically possible. Most people just put a micro module behind their keypad for such requirements.

What worked for me was to right click on the device in the AC, go to Z-Wave, Compatibility Mode, then set Compatibility Mode On. It fixed the exact issue you describe. The user number shows up under the ZY000_306 "Access Control Alarm" node.

If you run out of addresses (255) it will wrap around and start using unused address spaces, but not before then. You can end up with actual phantom devices, which you can use the failed device procedure to remove. As a rule of thumb, keeping your zwave network under 100, or under 50 if possible, greatly reduces congestion.

I posted this in another thread, but what's always solved this for me is 1) restoring the device from the AC and 2) increasing the retries from the PLM. I also have an old power strip in the basement I keep my Christmas ones plugged into all year, and since doing that have experienced no issues.

I recommend against getting a, "Smart," valve. Residential water shutoff ball valves have lifespans of over a century, and fully automated ones will require replacement every 10 years or so once they go out of support, Ethernet or not. If you do choose to install one, you should either install a bypass around it using traditional valves, so that a plumber can replace it without having to call for the water to be shut off at your buffalo box, or just install it after a main manual shut off for the same reason. FWIW, I went with the Zooz, and since I'm on a well I also kill power to the well pump at the same time, keeping any damage pretty limited even if the Zooz fails.