jec6613

I also have a small pile of Insteon outdoor modules, they work flawlessly. Regular old GFCI protected outlet, plug the outdoor module into it and pass the cord through the weatherproof in use outlet cover (which you have, right? There's definitely something where if an Insteon switch has heavy moisture exposure, it will start tripping a GFCI. It was a giant pain for me to learn to not mix a moist environment, GFCI, and an Insteon paddle, toggle, or outlet. For me at least though, it would not trip an AFCI/GFCI breaker, so I just installed that and protected the whole circuit and forgot about it.

Speaking of transitioning, is there a good way to send variables from an ISY994 to the ISY on a Polisy or vis versa, so they're in sync? Since virtually my entire house state is variable driven, being able to bring them over would let me slowly transition programs and devices in a good way over time, rather than having to just spend a weekend and bring everything over.

The way I handle old devices is I disable them, name them back to something generic (e.g. "Outdoor On/Off Spare #1), then stuff them in a folder called ~Disabled. And then they go into a box for storage. They're still in the ISY, and I can tell at a glance if I have spares.

There's the mention of legacy Insteon devices, so it sounds like there may something else going on at the protocol level.

Referenced in some manuals: WALL Smart Wall Switch User Manual user_manual SmartLabs, . (fccid.io) WR01 Smart Outlet User Manual User_manual SmartLabs, . (fccid.io) Perhaps a re-branding of Insteon with some additional features? Related note: there's a multisensor now: SmartLabs, . Multi Sensor MS01 FCC ID SBP-MS01

Yes it would be good. The higher-end you go, the fewer problems - my big rackmount UPS units don't cause issues, for instance, but my little ones all do. Also, motor loads (including door openers, washing machines, and refrigeration), and many switching power supplies (PCs, TVs, et cetera) cause all sorts of noise. Heck, my coffee grinder throws out a lot of noise, I just don't care because it only runs about 30 seconds at a time. I ended up over time putting in a lot of 20A X10 filters, wired in-line, for circuits which have dedicated loads - for instance, my two reefer circuits, my two server and two AV circuits, my washer circuit, and the like.

I'd skip the percentage, and just have it stay off for 45 minutes, run for 15 minutes, off for 45, then repeat infinitely. Set the condition to trigger if bath-fan-switch is off (status, not control) Once the switch isn't off, the program stops. For your first program, remember to have it trigger with the bath fan switch is turned on, but when you turn it off to turn off the *scene*, otherwise the HRV will stay on afterwards.

I don't believe that will work, as the micro module looks for line voltage, so unless your photocell is closing a line voltage relay, you'll have trouble. An iolinc, on the other hand, would be a better bet with low voltage outputs. Both require that the output be binary though, they won't work with a voltage threshold. Of course, you could just use something like a Z-Wave or Insteon motion sensor that will give you light values. That's how I trigger based on light, just read the photocell output if I want fine-grained control, or use the dark/not dark node if they have one.

Yeah, my Z-Wave mesh exists just for my locks and HVAC. Though despite being 30 feet away through a staircase and such, the thermostat gets great signal to the ISY. It's the pro/integrator version though, the consumer one has lesser antennas.

I took the deep dive on this and went with a Honeywell Z-Wave. A few too many service outages on Ecobee and Nest that took out heating completely, and, really, what benefit do they bring? The ISY knows home, away, and room occupancy status already, so I'd skip the cloud bits and just get something reliable.

These locks are picky .. I ended up getting a bunch of Dome extenders as one of the few extenders they play nice with.

I perfer a temperature != $variable to a less than, but it gets to the same place. It means the variable isn't constantly stored to the same value if the temperature didn't change, so last updated time becomes meaningful for other uses.

I am also seeing this exact issue on three multisensors ... one secure and two non. Edit: Update, they now work after an ISY reboot. Not sure what was going on there.

I use the Honeywell T6 - the T5 is more readily available though. Both are very good Z-Wave thermostats that just work.

Their extender 6 is a 500 series device. They're fine, but the Dome are cheaper for the same thing so.... I think I ordered some of the last right now, shipments from China are way down due to lack of shipping capacity coupled with the stimulus checks driving Q4 type purchasing in electronics.

Sure, I use them all of the time behind a GFCI and AFCI equipment. The return path for current is via the neutral, unless there's leakage to ground, you're fine. That said, I have seen a few GFCI/AFCI combo devices, the stand-alone sort, give me trouble. Never a GFCI alone, or a circuit breaker integrated GFCI/AFCI.

While any hardwired devices work for sensors, if you want door locks eventually, you'll need devices which support Beaming, and very few receptacles and switches support Beaming, and it's a long dig through the spec sheet to find out. I use the Dome extenders, and have ordered some Aeotec 700 series. The Dome are cheap, support Beaming, and are 500 series ZW Plus with S2 support. As an added bonus, you can control their built in light for a night light. The Aeotec 700 series are one of the only 700 series devices at the moment, and all 700 series repeaters support Beaming and S2 (it's optional on ZW Plus/ZW 500 series) - so I'm adding them to future proof and provide some additional paths. That said, they're about twice the cost. Both can also be powered via USB, which is quite handy.

Z-wave is a simple add-on board, though you'll likely need some range extenders. Though the MSI was marketed as indoor/outdoor, the weather resistance and temperature range is similar to the current MSII. The OEM for both considers them indoor only. One other large change is detection range and fresnel lens angle, which on the MSI was more suitable for outdoor use, while the MSII is somewhat shorter in most setups. I do have one where they're similar since I'm looking at a 90 degree slice, and use a second MSII for the other 90 degree slice since they're on opposite sides of a beam sticking out of the house.

I have a bunch of MSII outdoors, and an MSI outdoors as well. I protect them from direct rain with overhangs mostly, but even the one just under a gutter works fine after a couple of years out there. Northern US weather, even in below zero they work fine. They are modestly sealed for use in bathrooms, where I also have three battery powered ones. The biggest piece of advice besides keeping them under overhangs is to, if possible, USB power them. The CR123A are much better than the 9V in the MSI in extremes of temperature, but USB powering them means I never have to worry about any of that. Also, I installed them realizing that I might lose one or two eventually, so I just figured that into the cost and bought a spare I keep around. If I were doing it today though, HomeSeer has a floodlight integrated motion sensor that is properly weatherproof, and Zooz has an outdoor motion sensor that is rated for the colder and higher temperatures and has modestly better weather sealing (still keep it under an overhang though). Since I have the ZW module and extenders for my door locks, it would be better for me to use those, but at the time they weren't available.

In the spec, yes, you can split the load and switch, but, de facto, no, unless you're willing to do some work in a serial console with a PLM.

Generally, just add Z-Wave devices too a scene as you would Insteon. The ISY on 5.x firmware handles the translation between the two, and uses all available Z-Wave features on the devices (e.g. device groups) to do so. I'd also suggest going to 5.0.16C though, because they have been squashing bugs lately.

I just turn off writes to battery powered devices, it doesn't seem to care that I'm not writing to the MSII most of the time. For USB powered ones, after I make the changes I execute the pending writes via a program.

I've had three solutions to this, depending on my response time: 1) Set the MSII to on only, with a short timeout, and add it to a scene with the light. Then use a program to come along and turn off the lights after, say, 5 minutes. With a 30 second MSII timeout and a 5 minute program timeout, the MSII will re-fire if any movement is seen after 30 seconds, and re-start the countdown timer. Response to light on is instant, so I use it for bathrooms and similar. 2) Set the MSII to not be in a scene, firing off and on. This then is handled by the ISY to turn on the lights, and the MSII stays active so long as it senses motion. I use this for longer term occupancy sensing and when the instant response doesn't matter, such as when the lights are on dimly anyway and just brighten. 3) Have the MSII in a scene, firing on and off. Its own internal timer resets if there's any motion, though I've found this less reliable, it works for a few outdoor lights.

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Yeah, I'm not saying that IE11 is good, just that it's good that we have it. If you get fancy, you can have certain sites launch in IE using admx templates as well for those known old ones. Fewer and fewer utilities need IE anymore, but I still have a half a dozen or so and I'm glad I have IE for that.