jec6613

Yeah, my Z-Wave mesh exists just for my locks and HVAC. Though despite being 30 feet away through a staircase and such, the thermostat gets great signal to the ISY. It's the pro/integrator version though, the consumer one has lesser antennas.

I took the deep dive on this and went with a Honeywell Z-Wave. A few too many service outages on Ecobee and Nest that took out heating completely, and, really, what benefit do they bring? The ISY knows home, away, and room occupancy status already, so I'd skip the cloud bits and just get something reliable.

Yeah, or sell it as a $50-$75 upcharge or something on an upmodel hub as an option. I have a ton of Ethernet, and fortunately good GigE is pretty cheap anymore, my main AV rack has a dedicated 24 port switch with 4x 1 Gb multimode fiber uplinks to two redundant L3 switches; a secondary rack to keep amplifiers close to big speakers has a 12 port switch as well, and I have a few others kicking around for various uses. 15 cameras, 5 WAPs, 20-ish wired AV devices, and another 12-ish other hardwired devices ... and currently I have 23 Wi-Fi devices connected, and none of my spouses' stuff is online right now. Getting as much as possible off of Wi-Fi is the biggest thing anybody can do to make their Wi-Fi work better.

Came here specifically to mention this as well. I've jumped through some hoops to get my regular Harmony happy in the same situations just for this reason - a bunch of 2.5 to 3.5 adapters, mounted it in rafters to get the RF reliable, and put in dedicated WAPs to ensure a stable Wi-Fi connection. Oh, and even some Insteon relays so that I can power cycle these things remotely for when the WiFi inevitably has issues. Because, yes, I would love one of these Pro 2400's, at full price, aside from needing a dealer account. Actually, I'd probably own 3 of them. I'm not that cost sensitive, love DIY, and the Harmony already does all I ask of it and people understand how to use them. Give me higher quality connectors, more of them, and wired Ethernet so I'm not relying on a Wi-Fi connection to control the receiver and Rokus, and then longer RF range? Definitely worth a few hundred bucks, at least to me.

These locks are picky .. I ended up getting a bunch of Dome extenders as one of the few extenders they play nice with.

I perfer a temperature != $variable to a less than, but it gets to the same place. It means the variable isn't constantly stored to the same value if the temperature didn't change, so last updated time becomes meaningful for other uses.

I am also seeing this exact issue on three multisensors ... one secure and two non. Edit: Update, they now work after an ISY reboot. Not sure what was going on there.

I use the Honeywell T6 - the T5 is more readily available though. Both are very good Z-Wave thermostats that just work.

Their extender 6 is a 500 series device. They're fine, but the Dome are cheaper for the same thing so.... I think I ordered some of the last right now, shipments from China are way down due to lack of shipping capacity coupled with the stimulus checks driving Q4 type purchasing in electronics.

Sure, I use them all of the time behind a GFCI and AFCI equipment. The return path for current is via the neutral, unless there's leakage to ground, you're fine. That said, I have seen a few GFCI/AFCI combo devices, the stand-alone sort, give me trouble. Never a GFCI alone, or a circuit breaker integrated GFCI/AFCI.

While any hardwired devices work for sensors, if you want door locks eventually, you'll need devices which support Beaming, and very few receptacles and switches support Beaming, and it's a long dig through the spec sheet to find out. I use the Dome extenders, and have ordered some Aeotec 700 series. The Dome are cheap, support Beaming, and are 500 series ZW Plus with S2 support. As an added bonus, you can control their built in light for a night light. The Aeotec 700 series are one of the only 700 series devices at the moment, and all 700 series repeaters support Beaming and S2 (it's optional on ZW Plus/ZW 500 series) - so I'm adding them to future proof and provide some additional paths. That said, they're about twice the cost. Both can also be powered via USB, which is quite handy.

Z-wave is a simple add-on board, though you'll likely need some range extenders. Though the MSI was marketed as indoor/outdoor, the weather resistance and temperature range is similar to the current MSII. The OEM for both considers them indoor only. One other large change is detection range and fresnel lens angle, which on the MSI was more suitable for outdoor use, while the MSII is somewhat shorter in most setups. I do have one where they're similar since I'm looking at a 90 degree slice, and use a second MSII for the other 90 degree slice since they're on opposite sides of a beam sticking out of the house.

I have a bunch of MSII outdoors, and an MSI outdoors as well. I protect them from direct rain with overhangs mostly, but even the one just under a gutter works fine after a couple of years out there. Northern US weather, even in below zero they work fine. They are modestly sealed for use in bathrooms, where I also have three battery powered ones. The biggest piece of advice besides keeping them under overhangs is to, if possible, USB power them. The CR123A are much better than the 9V in the MSI in extremes of temperature, but USB powering them means I never have to worry about any of that. Also, I installed them realizing that I might lose one or two eventually, so I just figured that into the cost and bought a spare I keep around. If I were doing it today though, HomeSeer has a floodlight integrated motion sensor that is properly weatherproof, and Zooz has an outdoor motion sensor that is rated for the colder and higher temperatures and has modestly better weather sealing (still keep it under an overhang though). Since I have the ZW module and extenders for my door locks, it would be better for me to use those, but at the time they weren't available.

In the spec, yes, you can split the load and switch, but, de facto, no, unless you're willing to do some work in a serial console with a PLM.

Generally, just add Z-Wave devices too a scene as you would Insteon. The ISY on 5.x firmware handles the translation between the two, and uses all available Z-Wave features on the devices (e.g. device groups) to do so. I'd also suggest going to 5.0.16C though, because they have been squashing bugs lately.

I just turn off writes to battery powered devices, it doesn't seem to care that I'm not writing to the MSII most of the time. For USB powered ones, after I make the changes I execute the pending writes via a program.

I've had three solutions to this, depending on my response time: 1) Set the MSII to on only, with a short timeout, and add it to a scene with the light. Then use a program to come along and turn off the lights after, say, 5 minutes. With a 30 second MSII timeout and a 5 minute program timeout, the MSII will re-fire if any movement is seen after 30 seconds, and re-start the countdown timer. Response to light on is instant, so I use it for bathrooms and similar. 2) Set the MSII to not be in a scene, firing off and on. This then is handled by the ISY to turn on the lights, and the MSII stays active so long as it senses motion. I use this for longer term occupancy sensing and when the instant response doesn't matter, such as when the lights are on dimly anyway and just brighten. 3) Have the MSII in a scene, firing on and off. Its own internal timer resets if there's any motion, though I've found this less reliable, it works for a few outdoor lights.

This. Invalid address means that you don't have three sets of [0-9A-Fa-f]{2} separated by periods.

Yeah, I'm not saying that IE11 is good, just that it's good that we have it. If you get fancy, you can have certain sites launch in IE using admx templates as well for those known old ones. Fewer and fewer utilities need IE anymore, but I still have a half a dozen or so and I'm glad I have IE for that.

Option 1) Use ISY launcher. Option 2) Use Internet Explorer. You may laugh, but do you know how many pieces of really expensive (and even pretty new) tech rely on Java or an IE specific extension for administration in the IT world? Keep it to sites on the intranet and off the internet and it's perfectly fine and works well. And it's Windows 7, so you actually have IE on it, unlike the home editions of Windows 10 which lack it.

I push the LED brightness button on all of my 2334's, and this comes up. I have nine of them and they all work the same way. Though I don't actually control it with that, that would be a bit silly, I have programs that adjust the backlights by time of day.

You can also just rig up more normal beams. Most openers have multiple safety inputs for precisely that reason, and if not, you can get an expansion bus pretty easily. Or, if your GDO handles NC, just run them in series.

Mine came with the house. When we had the door and track replaced by UPS (who damaged it) is when I got all of the in-built sensors calibrated and dialed in. Also since we now have a lightweight door and previously had solid wood, we have a massively overpowered GDO, which really helps with the auto reverse sensor. I believe it's a seco-larm curtain sensor, similar to this: http://www.seco-larm.com/sensors/curtain-sensors/E-9622-4B25

Mine is around 5 frames of delay at 15 FPS, so 1/3 of a second, on my LAN. From Joburg it was about 2-3 seconds transiting the undersea cables. But if a child enters under the door path, it stops and retracts due to the curtain sensors anyway, and they'd also have to come from somewhere, which is all camera covered. If a child can run 150m from out of sight to the door in less than 12 seconds when the world record is 9.58 to 100m, then I'm calling Guinness.

Well, for one thing, I have multiple beam sensors crossing the path of the door from a few inches up to 3' off the ground, any one of which will cause an instant reverse. Also, at least on my opener, the sensitivity on the back pressure sensor is as high as it can go - I can stop it with one finger, and have tested this. And living in the sticks on some property takes care of most of the rest, and the cameras the rest, since I have much better visibility from in my house with the cameras than I do inside of the garage using the hardwire button. I could meet the buzzer recommendations as well (not code required around here), and at some point will put that in, but since I can see the interior and exterior of the garage it hasn't been a high priority. See also: the dual Labrador alarm system that would definitely alert me if someone was on the property.