jec6613

That's why I have filterlincs all over my house. I picked up a pile of them with the 50% off sales.

Right click on the device in the Admin Console and hit Restore Device. It erases and re-writes the EPROM so that it matches what's in the ISY database for the device.

If you're using an IOLinc with your sensor, you might want to restore it from the ISY just in case. I've found that I have to restore mine every year or so because it goes wonky being attached to the same circuit as the garage door motor load.

Network Resource. I use LiFX, because the lighting strips do not dim at the longer lengths I was using them for, but they are largely similar in compatibility. Older LiFX devices had some compatibility issues with multiple dual band WAPs, but the newer controllers have fixed those. I would choose to go with whichever system fits your lighting needs best, and for me that was LiFX, but for you may be different. There are also other systems with color change bulbs you could try as well, including some Z-Wave ones (Aeotec I believe has bulbs and strips) and I do have one caveat to bring up: LiFX is a larger security risk since it's more direct WiFi devices. It's not an issue for me, but I have them VLANed off and controlled access for them. For someone less savvy about networking, the Hue which use ZigBee or any of the Z-Wave devices may be better simply for that reason.

Yeah, and also to raise cash so that UDI can make a large enough production run initially to bring the per unit cost to reasonable levels. Not that I'm complaining though! You guys are a for profit business and I'll take any discount I can get.

Perfect. Since I won't be using antennas and did not order the pro (Bluetooth lacks the range and I have hardwired WAPs and Ethernet drops in every room) this is almost ideal. It can sit on the same shelf as the ISY994! It wouldn't have been a deal-breaker if it couldn't, but not having to move shelves around is certainly a nice benefit.

One simple question @Michel Kohanim: will it fit into a single RU? The dimensions listed are 8x8x2, but of course this product will be shipping in October and those numbers seem rounded off quite a bit, possibly from 1.75"? Currently I have my ISY taking up 1RU on a shelf, and am wondering if I will need a second RU for a Polisy.

Thanks, but that answers the heat issue (which I'm not concerned about), not the size issue.

One question.. the dimensions are listed as 8x8x2, is the height number rounded from 1.750? I'm asking because my ISY currently sits on a shelf with 1RU of space, will this fit onto a 1RU shelf?

I just have a keypad in our bedroom with a, "Garage," button that is lit whenever the door is open. Push it and it closes or opens it - lets me remote start the car on cold mornings, too.

Yes, very do-able, but you'll have to use network resources to send commands back and forth if you want them both to respond to the same triggers. Basically though, you just run two split systems (one ISY controls one set of devices in the home, the other controls the ones in the shop, and they can only command their own) besides the aforementioned triggers to send a few things back and forth between them (For instance, you could set variable states remotely). Two separate sets of programs and et cetera would be involved. Work involved to get it going, but very reliable. Honestly I'd probably do the dual ISY setup in your case, the work would be worth it.

The right hand button disables motion detection for a set period - that's how to set that period.

It's not that much cheaper anymore, especially compared to the devices involved. Check SH.com. The ISY is much more reliable and more flexible. The hub only allows basic schedules without any offsets. The major advantage to the hub (aside from cost) is its very nice app interfaces and easy connection to a number of other devices. Polyglot and the UDI Portal get rid of almost all of those advantages though. For more basic users, it's also simpler to set up - I don't think that'll be an issue here though.

I think something missing here is that, generally, Insteon is at least on par if not beyond many of their competitors. There's nothing like the Keypads, for instance, and the dimmers are only matched in Z-Wave by Leviton (and even then not quite matched), which come in at the same price point. The newest Insteon dimmers are really second only to Lutron, for instance, and have been updated even over the last two years and are now thinner and even higher quality than the ones I put in when I first bought my house. It's not perfect, but if you want a bulletproof reliable system, they're still top notch and slowly but surely moving the bar forward. Personally though, I have a primary Insteon system, but recognize that Z-Wave also provides unique devices that Insteon doesn't (and vis versa), so I have the Z-Wave module installed as well. Not really used yet, but the next big expansion is into Z-Wave with smart locks and enough outlets to support a decent network.

Yes impacted by cold temps, and you'd have to rig up some sort of janky connection to make them sense the door since they're too insensitive for a garage door. The garage door IOLinc is much better.

What's happening is that the act of turning all of the lights off triggers the program to be re-evaluated, comes up false and then follow the else path. Since the lights act like state variables and cause the program to be immediately re-evaluated, what I'd usually fix this by creating as second program with more fine-grained conditions and put the Else into the Then statement of it. I'd probably use an integer variable, so the then becomes: $Variable = 0 Set Scene Off Wait 5 seconds $Variable = 1 Then use that 1/0 variable as a condition on the second program, so that the If reads: $Variable is 1 And Status of all lights And IR_006 is pressed And then make the Then part your current Else statement. I believe there's a flag that only allows a program to run if it hasn't been run in a certain period of time that's now built into the 5.x firmware, but I've never used it so can't speak to it.

They have new Z-Wave Plus versions (the model number ends in ZP) that are replacing the older ones. Otherwise identical - both with and without alarm will be available soon-ish.

I'm just posting here so I can find this thread more easily this weekend.

I use a Polyglot node server for the Harmony Hub, but I can't expose a device to the Harmony with it, just read from it and set existing settings. Of course, you could create dummy commands and have Polyglot respond to those - or just add the IR module if it's physically there with the Harmony already anyway.