jec6613

Yes, and they work really well.

Honeywell T6 Z-Wave. It works very well - and also has a power loss reporting node that will report if the power goes out if it has batteries installed. Quite handy.

First I've heard of that on the dual band 2477's, I sent backlight levels around 6 times per day and it's been going strong for six years.

Store temperature in variables and compare the variables.

Did it this morning for PG3x update, also got 5.8.0... any changelog yet?

Have you updated the firmware to the latest yet? The Z-Wave 800 stuff is still early days, that'd be my first step. Second would be to enable the Z-Wave compatibility mode, if that doesn't work. ZEN32 Scene Controller Change Log - Zooz Support Center (getzooz.com)

Back in the old Insteon forum days (days of yore..) somebody took a poke at the deep documentation and determined that you can indeed sever the front keypad from the back control, including the fast on, creating an additional device in their ISY (so an 8 button keypad would have an xx.xx.xx.9 device added) to control the connected load. I don't recall that it was easy to do, and obviously the ISY doesn't have the built-in functionality, but it is technically possible. Most people just put a micro module behind their keypad for such requirements.

What worked for me was to right click on the device in the AC, go to Z-Wave, Compatibility Mode, then set Compatibility Mode On. It fixed the exact issue you describe. The user number shows up under the ZY000_306 "Access Control Alarm" node.

If you run out of addresses (255) it will wrap around and start using unused address spaces, but not before then. You can end up with actual phantom devices, which you can use the failed device procedure to remove. As a rule of thumb, keeping your zwave network under 100, or under 50 if possible, greatly reduces congestion.

I posted this in another thread, but what's always solved this for me is 1) restoring the device from the AC and 2) increasing the retries from the PLM. I also have an old power strip in the basement I keep my Christmas ones plugged into all year, and since doing that have experienced no issues.

First, restore the device from the admin console. Second, edit the device properties to have more retries from the PLM. Fixed it for me every time I've had this. The reason I've found tends to be either 1) the data in the device got corrupted over time, it can happen. Especially if you don't leave these plugged in all year, I actually have an old power strip to leave them plugged in during the off season just to prevent this. Or, 2) these programs tend to trigger at busy times on the insteon network, and it's right on the edge of what should be responding, so the retries help.

I recommend against getting a, "Smart," valve. Residential water shutoff ball valves have lifespans of over a century, and fully automated ones will require replacement every 10 years or so once they go out of support, Ethernet or not. If you do choose to install one, you should either install a bypass around it using traditional valves, so that a plumber can replace it without having to call for the water to be shut off at your buffalo box, or just install it after a main manual shut off for the same reason. FWIW, I went with the Zooz, and since I'm on a well I also kill power to the well pump at the same time, keeping any damage pretty limited even if the Zooz fails.

These are a thing, been around for decades. mmWave occupancy exist for alarm systems with a normal dry contact closure. I just got rid of one from the early '90's in favor of a more reliable microwave one, but yeah. One thing I've done is to use Z-Wave relays to power down amplifiers and subwoofers whenever the house is unoccupied or we're asleep. With a whole home AV system, that adds up quite a bit. I'm focusing on chasing down some big draws in my equipment racks though, it's about 1.5kw, and the all-in electricity price is $0.60 peak and $0.55 off peak.

They appear to do at least as well as the Aeotec 700 series extenders, but right now I have two sets of extenders: one for door locks, and one for everything else, so I have way more coverage than I need - a legacy of the lack of S2 support on the ISY, and some of the design choices made by Aeotec.

It arrived sooner than expected, and does indeed report power loss and appears to continue routing Z-Wave messages after power loss on 5.7.1.

I'll report back after Thanksgiving to see if it's any good on IoX. At minimum, if it allows me to reduce my current fleet extenders, I'll be happy.

Good general advice, but my main panel already has 46 poles and ~70 hots run in a 40 slot panel, and 16 of the poles share 8 neutrals, so I could only pick up a few circuits worth of monitoring there, for both gutter space and also that I can't connect another wire into most of the breakers. With 85% of my wiring being MC with a spiral ground tape inside instead of a ground wire that leaves me with having to tap into it at an existing box somewhere out on the branch circuit. And it's now hopefully apparent why I'm talking about a panel replacement in the near future, the cover barely goes on as it is. Location-wise, the alarm box is on the other side of the basement with no nearby keypads - though that's relatively minor as the basement is unfinished and I already have the LV cable pathing throughout (I have a ton of LV). Two of the branch circuits have accessible boxes in the basement, the remainder only have boxes in the finished living area. The other issue is, the secondary panel with yet more circuits to monitor is in a semi-detached garage that I'd need to run another conduit to, as my existing LV conduit is filled with CAT6 and fiber optics.

I do have an Elk, though it's not terribly conveniently located and I have a number of circuits to monitor. So far, it's only monitoring its own circuit, and it's the only thing important on that circuit. After a bit more digging, I did come up with a bit different solution... Square D sells WiFi receptacles that connect to the Sense monitor, respond to pings, and aren't poorly mannered devices in the IP stack. Coupled with the ping nodeserver, they seem reliable enough so far after about a week; I'll report back after a month. They also integrate with sense, and, uniquely, monitors with an unswitched receptacle that's a straight passthrough with no draw restrictions, in addition to a switched one. Given their track record on the APC side of the house, I actually have confidence these will be supported at least until I can get some of those fancy ZigBee relays that go into QO panels.

.ota, as stated in the post. I know that .otz and .gbl are supported, just asking if .ota is on the radar to be added.

Is adding support for .ota files for updating Z-Wave device firmware in the to-do list? I have several Leviton devices that use this format for updates, currently IoX just gives me a friendly not supported error message.

Yes, every time the On is sent, it restarts the program.

Basically what it says above. I'm not terribly interested in having something I can reset remotely, as that seems like trouble waiting to happen (I feel that safety devices should be alarm only, control should be a separate product), just something so I know if critical circuits go offline. I already have the Square D Wiser monitor (basically a slightly better Sense monitor), and the resolution isn't good enough, and alarming on it would involve nuisance alarms. I've had three thoughts: first, put in some sort of device in the branch circuit and periodically query it, which is slow but effective, and the second would be to use something like a HomeSeer HS-FS100+ with light sensor and just stick it on something that's constant on, like a GFCI receptacle's light, to determine if it has power. The third option would be to swap my electrical panel to a Leviton or similar (Span aren't large enough to meet my needs). This isn't totally out of the realm of possibility given some circuit expansion that will require either another sub panel or larger panel in the next couple of years anyway. Anybody have any success or thoughts?

For A19 this may be true, but certainly GU10, BR20, PAR20L and PAR38 are almost unobtainable.

*If you can find them... They seem to be discontinuing them in favor of pushing people to Hue, but yes they were the best dimmable bulbs using normal dimmers. If you like them, make sure you buy enough spares to last a while (like I did). The Warm Glow are so good because they have two sets of LEDs inside of them, one that's a low power warm set, and another that's a higher power closer to daylight set, and some electronics to activate them with different ramp rates - being effectively two different power light bulbs in one package they can dim lower by using the warm LEDs, giving them the excellent response to dimming. Despite all that, Hue still dim better, but require an always-on circuit (Lutron does sell a Zigbee remote switch that installs over a normal toggle, at least).

At least as of a couple of days ago, it didn't actually update the OS, just said it would.