apostolakisl

You do have the advantage here that you are wiring just swapping out one device for another where they are basically identical. So there should not be any confusion. Just be certain that you have shut the breaker off, as mentioned. Insteon devices don't like if you wire them hot and get sparks. As an extra precaution, I always pull the hard disconnect on the device while wiring it in.

You would have to have a pretty old device to have the bad tact switches in them. Smarthome replaced every switch in my house under warranty for that like 15 years ago. I haven't had any of the replacements do that. The switches have a date code on them on a sticker that is visible if you take the switchplate cover off. It will be a year and week. I forget what order, but it would be something like 3422 meaning the 34th week of 2022. Ot maybe it would be 2234. As you know, the 2476ST isn't made anymore, but it isn't necessary. Use programs in ISY to do your timing rather than having the switch natively do it. A 2477S is a relay switch (on/off only, no dimming) designed for controlling things that shouldn't have dimming at all (motors/fluorescent lights). 2477S is also a dual band, so it uses radio and power line communication which makes it much more reliable.

Might do it this way depending on your needs. This mod to the program above causes the counter to trigger on you setting the variable to whatever time period you want to wait. Shouldn't need two programs (depending on how you are setting the variable for countdown) as this program won't re-trigger unless you change the value of that variable mid count, in which case I assume you would want it to start over. In summary, the below program runs as soon as you set the variable $chosenvartowait to any positive number. It will then count every second until it reaches that number. Obviously, change your wait time to minutes or hours or whatever if you want to count those instead. Also note, I moved the wait 1 second line up above the add 1 to the variable line. I think it would terminate 1 second too soon otherwise. And I moved the reset of the counter variable to the first line ensuring if you change the variable mid count it will reset it. ID - [ID 0058][Parent 0093] If If $chosenvartowait > 0 (need to setup this variable as a state variable) Then $countervar = 0 Repeat While $countervar < $chosenvartowait Wait 1 second $countervar += 1 Repeat 1 times Set whatever you want to happen Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I don't know of any way to do that directly. The best I can think of is to use "repeat while" as guy mentioned and then set a program to count. Something like ID - [ID 0058][Parent 0093] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then (optional line here to disable triggering program) Repeat While $countervar < $chosenvartowait $countervar += 1 Wait 1 second Repeat 1 times Set whatever you want to happen $countervar = 0 (optional line here to re-enable triggering program) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') You just have to make sure whatever you put in your "if" section doesn't re-trigger and cancel the wait midstream leaving the countervar at some counted up value. You may make this two programs and have this program be disabled and have the first program run this program and set this program to disable then re-enable the first program.

did you try a reboot of the whole thing? I usually use putty to login (admin/admin) then enter the command "sudo reboot" Or if you want to really make sure, I believe the command is "sudo shutdown", let the unit shutdown and then pull power for 30 seconds.

If linking mode isn't working, then you either have a faulty switch or a seriously bad communication issue. You can try manually adding as per Paul, but I suspect that won't work. And if it does work, then it means something is wrong with the switch since it isn't declaring itself in linking mode. I assume you are holding the set button in long enough until the switch beeps indicating it entered linking mode.

Switching to a new, dual band, device usually fixes any com issues, especially ones that aren't horrible. My bet though is that the age of that switch is the problem, which of course is also fixed with a new replacement. I have found that the old single band devices seem to become less sensitive to the power line signal as they age. I have some very old devices that monitor power draw (I forget what they are called), but they don't make them anymore so I can't replace them. I use them to tell when the washing machine has finished. Anyway, as they got older, the com failure rate kept climbing until they stopped working altogether, but discovered if I plug it in directly next to the plm, they worked. I ended up using a dual band appliance linc that I plugged it directly into (in series) and that fixed the com issue. But the point is, it needed that strong of a signal, basically a couple inches of wire between it and the appliance linc as a repeater.

That looks like a nice all-in-one package. I could make one that does the same thing for less than $100 including the Insteon switch, but if you don't want to be troubled . .. Of course you still have to install the thing so you kind of are already being troubled. The contactors for HVAC equipment would be perfect for this and are only about $10 and a nice waterproof j-box can be had for about $15. The make these j-box's with mounting plates in the back which is real nice so you can just screw down all your stuff with no fuss and have it look all nice and neat. It wouldn't have the switch on the outside though, you would have to open the door, but they come with hinged doors, so no big deal.

theoretically, at some point we will get a http GUI that runs on the Polisy/Eisy box. Perhaps the Eisy will perform better when this task is layered on top? But I wouldn't think it would matter unless they really do something fantastic with the self-hosted web interface (like video and live action stuff vs just a console similar the java one).

I can't imagine what the mechanism could have been for Eisy to inhibit local manual operation of a switch. It was my understanding the local control of a switch was independent of any Insteon communication. Perhaps some flood of data between eisy and the switch upon pressing the button that swamped the switch cpu. It would have been curious to have watched the traffic on eisy.

I would start with one of your mis-behaving switches. Factory reset it and then restore it from ISY. Pull the tab out, leave it out for 10 seconds, then in one motion, push the tab in, all the way in, and hold it there for a good bit. The device will start to beep, don't let go, keep holding it in until the beep stops. That should factory reset it. Then go to ISY and restore it. I find it easier to use a butter knife to push the tab in and hold it with for the 10 or 15 seconds it takes to factory reset.

Thank you for that. The video only showed webhooks in the protect section, I assume nothing yet in access. I don't use ubiquiti protect, only network and access. EDIT: AS it turns out, I do "use" protect because they have integrated the door card reader cameras into protect.

I'm pretty sure on a 2477s, that if the led goes to the top, the load is on. Also, you would hear the relay inside click if it turns on. If both of those things happen, then I suspect the load is connected to a different switch.

When you manually walk up to the switch and click it. Do the led's on the switch rise up to the top indicating it should be on? Are you sure the load is connected to that switch and not another switch that you have in a scene with it? Certainly Insteon switches can fail and simply don't send power to the load. But if the load turns on when using Alexa, the switch is obviously not failed in that way. Some switches have failed where the tact switch no longer connects and thus when you push the button the computer in the switch doesn't know you pushed it. But that is a problem with much older switches and to my knowledge none of the dual band switches.

How do you transfer your settings from your phone to this? I have exported the ud mobile to my pc, but can't import them from blue stack emulator. EDIT: I figured out an easy way. I installed gmail in the blue stacks emulator and then emailed the file to myself and downloaded it from gmail within the emulator and then it was in the emulator download folder. Trouble is, when I tried to install the backup, it said there was a version conflict. I signed up for the beta version on my phone, I have now signed up for it in the emulator. Waiting to see if that works. EDIT 2: That worked.