Xathros

For what its worth, I have a new v43 KPLD8 that DOES NOT exhibit this behavior. I have 3 buttons configured as Non-toggle Off (B,G & H) and when pressed they blink twice and go off. This replaced an older KPLD8 that died and was put in place with the replace function. Not sure if that should have any bearing on the situation. -Xathros

Same here. I always use the screw terminals and always loop the conductor around the screw in the direction that the screw tightens. -Xathros

Why would this cause any issues for a UPS? Or, did you mean to say PLM here? -Xathros

Les- I'm not sure you need to replace any switches. Simply check the wiring at the non-insteon 3way switch location that is presenting the problem. You may have a bad connection in a wire nut at that location. -Xathros

OK, based on that feedback, now I'm thinking that the power feed to the toggleinc is fed through the box with that 3 way switch and there is a bad connection in that box. The act of flipping that switch is wiggling the connections and momentarily dropping power to the togglinc. -Xathros

ABLE1- My Guess is the CFL's on the 4 way circuit are putting a spike or nasty noise on the line that is causing the Insteon switch to act up. Try swapping the CFL's on the 4 way for incandescent and test. I bet the problem goes away. Michel- Per the OP, the 4 way circuit is Non-Insteon. Therefore no orphaned/half links are possible there. -Xathros

Hi Will- As apostolakisl stated, you don't need the network module for the ISY with the newer revs of the CAI board. I am using DS1822's for the sensors (functionally the same I believe). I soldered the sensor to the end of some CAT3 wire and taped it to the outside of a 3/4 copper line exiting my hot water tank then covered the line with some 3/4 ID foam pipe insulation. These sensors appear to max out at 185F which is about 20F above what I needed in this application. I'm not sure if that will satisfy your needs or not. I believe the CAI board supports up to 8 of these sensors. I'm currently using 4. There are also, 8 digital outputs, 8 digital inputs, a few analog inputs and support for a single humidity sensor. All in all a very inexpensive and very capable little board. It makes an excellent addition to the ISY. I'm down in the Brattleboro area. -Xathros

Hi ELA- Thank you for verifying my suspicion. While it makes sense that a PLM "could" function for RF with no AC reference, I don't see SmartHome putting that much engineering into their products. I would guess that they are using the 60Hz line as the clock for both the power line and RF side of things. I do remember a few users having the PLM on the Battery side of a UPS and bridging via RF. I'll poke around and see if I can search out some of those older posts. -Xathros

Hi WillyWonker- The easiest way would be with a CAI Webcontrol board and a few one wire temp sensors. I do this with the output side of my hot water tank. The Web Control board can be configured to post data directly to ISY state variables and your ISY programs can take action based on those values. -Xathros

When adding the motion sensor, did you open up the sensor and press the set button to wake up the sensor and put it in linking mode? Likewise, did you press the set button on the dual band switch after selecting start linking? -Xathros

Good point. -Xathros

Chrome? Firefox? -Xathros

This would take a variable and a series of programs to accomplish for just On and Off. To capture the Dim state of the light would currently take MANY programs. UDI is working on the next generation firmware that WILL allow us to capture the current dim state and reset it later. That ability is due out early this year I believe. Once we have that capability, it should be a simple change to the programs below to include the dim level. For capturing the On/Off state and resetting, here is the flow: Define an integer Variable: 1.HallLightsOn If Control Garage Sensor is switched Off Then Run Program Flash1 (If Path) Program: Flash1 (Disabled) If Status Hall Switch is On Then i.HallLightsOn = 1 Run Program Flash2 (If Path) Else i.HallLighsOn = 0 Run Program Flash2 (If Path) Program: Flash2 If i.HallLightsOn=1 Then Set HallLights FastOff Wait 1 Set HallLights FastOn Else Set HallLights FastOn Wait 1 Set HallLights FastOff Don't forget to set Flash1 as DISABLED or you could end up with a continuously flashing hallway. Hope this helps. -Xathros

Hi jjm2958- You can accomplish what you want but it would require that you use a program to sit between you and the garage door kit. You would use the program as your Mobilink favorite rather than the IOLinc or a Scene to activate the garage door. Here is what I envision: Define a state variable: s.ButtonPressCounter and set its value to 0 Program: GarageDoorIsolation If Then s.ButtonPressCounter =+1 Else Program: TriggerGarageDoor If s.ButtonPressCounter < 2 Then Wait 4 seconds s.ButtonPressCounter = 0 Else Set GarageDoorRelay On Wait 2 seconds Set Garage Door Relay Off You would make the RunThen portion of GarageDoorIsolation your favorite. You will have to run this twice within 4 seconds to activate the door. Hope this helps. -Xathros

Try: https:/rest/programs/My%20Programs %20 is the http placeholder for a space. -Xathros

Most I have purchased direct from Smarthome. I could be wrong, but I remember the relays being on the order of $10 cheaper than the dimmers. I haven't bought any in a while however. I have been buying SLDs recently and replacing older TLRs where I wanted dimmers then re-purposing the older TLRs. -Xathros

Is the HUB X10 capable? If so, you could have the HUB issue X10 commands and the ISY react to them. Just a thought. -Xathros

I do something very similar to this with my fanlinc's. I have one KPL or RL2 button that cycles through low, med, high and off with each press. A FastOn will always turn the fan off. -Xathros

You could also use the somewhat cheaper relay versions as your controllers and only place the dimmer where your load is. -Xathros

Excellent. Thanks for posting back with your results. -Xathros

Don't worry, some of these things still trip me up on occasion too. You will get the hang of it. -Xathros

Any time. Happy to help. -Xathros

Can the other end be configured to require a username? Then you could pass both user and pass in the auth header. -Xathros

I'm not sure that is the right answer either. I think you want to monitor the STATUS of all devices in the scene and manage the KPL button based on that. The above will work if a specific control is used to turn a scene member off but what if another scene changes a member in this scene? Try this: If Status SceneMember1 is Off or Status SceneMember2 is Off or Status SceneMember3 is Off or Status SceneMember4 is Off Then Set KPLButtonScene Off Else This way, no matter how a scene member is turned off, the KPL button will be affected. -Xathros

I think you need to take the password out of the body and place it in an authentication header instead. -Xathros