MarkJames

You'll have to follow the bug reports and firmware updates page to see if anything impacts on you. I currently use 2.7.11 - the newest version - and have noticed no problems. I don't use an IRLinc, EzIO, or communicating stats but have every other insteon creature there is. I think 2.7.7 is the last 'official' release - the others are alphas. The nice thing with ISY is it's not like other hardware/software. The engineers and programmers are right on top of it. If there's a bug or problem it's fixed - usually within days. Enjoy!

My apologies - I did misunderstand. I thought your load was turning on/off from a button that you didn't want controlling it. I'm afraid I don't have a clue why ISY doesn't match statuses with you and will shut up now and wait for michel and the gang to help you out. The only thing that I could imagine is that the Offs and the very low %age ons are getting confused. regards, mark

You're trying to turn it OFF with an ON command - you can't do that with a KPL local button. If you want to turn it off you'll have to do it with an off command or set the dim level to like 1% which, for all intents and purposes, is off. Just be careful because if you then use it's status for programs it's status is NOT off - you'll have to watch for dim levels instead. Dimmed to 1% looks off but is considered on. As for your button 3 controlling the load when you don't think it should, have you tried checking the links to see if all is right? Go to Tools -> diagnostics -> show device links then hit start. Select the KPL that's causing trouble and let it run it's course. When it's done hit the compare button and it will compare what's in the KPL vs what ISY thinks should be there. This is a hugely handy feature. I'll betcha dollars to donuts that you have some links from your pre-isy time. mark

6 button and 8 button KPL-s work the same way - only the naming changes. In an 8 button KPL the buttons are number 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 In a 6 button KPL the buttons are number 1,3,4,5,6 - the 2 is merged with the 1 to become an ON and the 7,8 merge to become the OFF. Either way the load is button 1 or 1/2 or A or A/B whatever you want to call it - and is the only place the load can connect. You can switch a KPL-6 to be an 8 and back again by air gapping it 10 seconds then holding A and H while pressing in for 2 seconds to make it an 8 or pressing AB and GH for 2 seconds to make it a 6. Of course you have to change the face plate as well as the button configuration is physically different. I've been wishing for a long time that they'd make a KPL with a user-definable load button but that doesn't seem to be a high priority for many people. Some users have even used KPL-8s upside down in order to make the load the H button. mark

Any button on a KPL can be linked to the load and turn it off - making it 'seem' as if a different button is controlling the load. However only button A can have a load attached to it. I have at least a dozen in my house where button H is an 'area off' button - it turns off every button on itself including the load and a bunch of other lights in the area. I do have problems getting ISY to configure buttons within a KPL turning off the load and generally link them manually. Press-hold ten seconds on the one you want as a controller (in my case H) till it blinks then press-hold ten seconds on the other KPL button you want on the same KPL till the link completes. I don't know why yours did what it did but whenever I experience similar 'weirdness' it's usually because I've created some links outside of ISY and promptly forgotten that I've done so.

Michel, I'm sure you've considered this but just to satisfy me. When a KPL is added to ISY does it add a PLM link for each group/button of the KPL? Or does it only add one when it's joined to a scene? I only ask because without there being a link to that button/group somewhere I could see why ISY would not be informed of a status change. Mark

Sorry for steering you in the wrong direction earlier. Here's a program I use to do something similar I have one switch that turns on 2 lights. If either one of the lights turns on it turns on the switch but I don't want it off until BOTH the other lights are off. If Status 'LIGHT - A' is Off And Status 'KPL - A' is Off Then Set 'TRIGGER - Both Things' Off Else Set 'TRIGGER - Both THings' On This way if ALL of the first three are off then the trigger turns off - otherwise the trigger turns on It works well - there's a second or so lag for program execution. I found it worked better based on status then on condition because the condition seemed to get 'missed' sometimes.

Learn something new every day I just tried that and confirmed it. A dim level of 0 will not turn off a KPL button - only a load.

Ok.. sorry... I didn't understand that A must toggle on and off. If that's the case then my first suggestion won't work. It sounds to me like you have the loads connected as members of the scene but not the buttons that control the loads. Can this be the case? Your scene - in the simplest case - should look like this KPL 1 - button A - controller KPL 1 - button B - responder - dim Level 0 KPL 1 - button C - responder - dim Level 0 KPL 2 - button B - responder - dim Level 0 KPL 2 - button C - responder - dim Level 0 KPL 3 - button B - responder - dim Level 0 KPL 3 - button C - responder - dim Level 0 Load controlled by KPL 2 - button B - responder - dim Level 0 Load controlled by KPL 2 - button C - responder - dim Level 0 I'm assuming here that KPL - button B, KPL 2 - button B and KPL 3 - button B control the same load? If you have it that way then no matter what you do to KPL1 - button A - on or off (but not hold and dim) should make all your buttons B, C, and their loads turn off. mark

Now from what you wrote it sounds like you want to press buton A on any one of them and have buttons b and c go out on all of them There are two ways I can think of to do that. One - make A a non-toggle off. Then create a scene with B&C from all the KPL's as members with A from All of them as controllers. Pressing any A will turn every A, B, and C off then Two - make a scene as above but highlight the A in the scene and make sure that each of the A, B, & C's have dim levels set to 0 in their scene properties in response to each A. So if you make a scene like that then A-on will turn them off because their dim level is 0 and A-off will turn them off because that's normal. Just be sure you're looking at the A as a controller part of the scene when you check. If you don't make the A non-toggle off and you haven't set the dim levels to 0 in all of them then the A will simply toggle all the responders to match its current state - ie A on will turn them all on, A off will turn them all off. Does that help any?

I don't use the button groupings feature much but if I understand correctly you're trying to make the buttons grouped on one KPL trigger in response to the buttons on a different one? If that's so, I don't believe that's possible. The button grouping is internal to each KPL - so that when you press one the others respond accordingly. At least that's the way I understand it. But if they're triggered from remote they don't follow the groupings. At least not the way I understand it. I think button groupings are a local function. I do something similar to what you're doing but I use scenes to do it. I join all the responding buttons in a scene and use the other KPL as a controller to turn them on/off at once.

I have older KPLs in my bedroom that don't dim. They came with the clear do-it-yourself button kit. I just made a template in photoshop for the buttons and printed them on photo paper with white letters on a black background. When printed in high quality mode on an inkjet it cuts the light down a LOT and they're very easily readable. I quite like them - and my wife does too... she can't sleep with any light in the room. mark

The thing to remember - that markens pointed out - is the way ISY handles programs. The IF condition part of the program is continuously monitored. An IF (status) is ON will be evaluated every time the status changes - so if it's ON and it goes OFF the condition will be reevaluated and the ELSE will happen. An IF (condition) like ON pressed will be evaluated whether it's an ON or and OFF. If at any time the IF changes the program will STOP if it's running and the whole IF is reevaluated and the THEN or the ELSE happens. So if you have a series of steps separated by a WAIT and the program is in the middle of the wait all is well until the IF changes again - that will cancel your program and start the whole thing over again with the appropriate then or else. It's an interesting way to do it - and it confused the crap out of me for a bit. I think markens is the one who explained it to me the first time, too. It makes you think more 'dynamically' and though it creates a few problems it also solves a few.

Well.... I just tried adding yet another motion sensor - 2420m Rev 2.0. Specified unit ID, specified Remove existing links - got the failed to write highwater mark error along with that node error. I put it back into linking mode and repeated the exact same steps but this time it successfully added. I don't know if it's ISY or me... I'm just glad it added. mark

That was it... I knew that's what it was - I just couldn't see it. I get bit by the 'change the condition, restart the program' mistake ALL the time. mark

well - I have another one in a box from smarthome - I'll try that later. It seems that it matters if you remove links or not and if you autodiscover or not. There was another post in a different thread with someone having a problem with it as well, though. mark

I see there are still issues adding motion sensors in 2.7.11? autodiscover with remove links doesn't work for me with a 2420M fresh out of the box. mark

That looks like it should fade the light off - 25% every 10 minutes. However you really should put the light into a scene. Simply create a scene called 'my daughters light' with whatever the light as a responder. You can then use the insteon - adjust scene command to dim the light. Even simpler still, though, why don't you just put it in a scene with a ramp rate of 40 minutes and turn it off? That's much more straight forwards and doesn't depend on a program. The lamp will simply dim down over 40 minutes to off. It doesn't have to have this ramp rate for everyday use - just as part of that one scene. mark

Restore - at least in my experience - does not restore the button mode of a KPL - 6 button vs 8 button, nor does it restore the button toggle mode. I don't use button grouping so I can't speak to that issue. All of these features are remote configurable - I just wonder why restore doesn't 'fully' restore? Is it just the way it's working in MY installation? Or is this the way ISY restore is written? I only ask because I have quite a number of KPL's that are not configured as their 'default' - 6 or 8 button. So if I want to restore after a reset then I first have to configure it to the right number of buttons, then restore, then reset my button toggle modes. It seems like a lot of steps that ISY could be handling for me. Don't take me wrong... I'm not griping - I'm just wondering if this is a problem that is unique to me or if it's just the way it is or if the plan is to eventually fully restore a KPL mark

That is if you don't have to change them from 6 button to 8 button or vice versa

Why, I guess, is a good question. My guess would be so he doesn't chew up 3 spaces in his panel for just a signal bridge and PLM. Personally I had space for a 220 breaker that I could dedicate to the signal bridge. If I didn't, though, I would have piggybacked the signal bridge off something 220 that doesn't run very often - we have a steam shower that would be perfect. The steam shower is off 99.9% of the time so for 99.9% of the time the signal bridge would have the circuit to itself - the other .1% of the time the signal would cross over through the steamer circuit anyways. The other option is to screw the whole signal bridge thing and get that smarthome bridge that plugs into your dryer outlet. It'd save you a breaker and two spaces in your panel. This guy... http://www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLi ... ler/p.aspx The only criticism I have of it is that it pushes your dryer away from the wall a bit if it's right behind. The PLM, though, should really be a homerun if possible. Anyways - I wasn't trying to pick nits with you, Tahoe, I've just had this 110v coming off a 220v circuit issue come up numerous times in my home. Mine is 28 years old so I'm constantly having to 'make do' with existing wiring. I've had cause to worry about it more than a few times over the years - having to decide whether to run back to the panel or take a leg off the 220. I'd definitely make sure and color code the legs properly if you're going to take 110 off 220 as leaving them improperly coded can come back and bite you in the behind bigtime.

KPL buttons when acting as responders can, indeed, be addressed directly. It's not the way ISY deals with them though. You would simply send an on command to the address of the KPL and the button # you want on or off. you can do this using a serial PLM if you cared to use something like hyperterminal and send the insteon command set manually. Powerhome does this for you and I can tell you from personal experience that it's no panacea. ISY doesn't work that way because if it did you would be able to write programs that changed KPL buttons and ISY would have no way of knowing. By forcing you to put the button in a scene it can track the changes. There's no down side to using the PLM and a scene structure - it's just a different way of thinking about the same problem.

robandcathy - I had the same issue at one point with 2.7.10. I exited the ISY console, closed the browser, unplugged the PLM to force the ISY to reboot and then plugged it back in, opened a new browser session and started admin console again. That cleared the write icons. Actually it didn't one of the times and I had to hit the write updates button - but it did ultimately go away this way.

I use the ISY's IR control but do not have an IRlinc. I've merely plugged my IR distribution bus into the ISY IR port. The signal strength is great and the responses work fine but it's come to my attention that were I using an IRlinc I'd be able to add the buttons to my main lighting page and use them directly. The way it is now I've been using them via program control. Is there a way to add the IR buttons to the main screen WITHOUT an IRlinc? Or a way to fake an IRlinc and add them like that? mark

Sorry.. that's not true. 220 breakers are common trip - if one side trips then both sides open. I've asked several electricians about this and they all give the same response - it's safe. It is also to code where I live but only if you color code the wires properly - wrapping white around the appropriate leg you're using for neutral. Mark