io_guy

Parasitic mode is completely legit for one-wire. That being said, floor heating uses resistive sensors (10k) similar to thermostats. I've also seen some use RTDs.

So I setup my first dimmer 3-way tonight, no issues with on/off. My scene on is 20%. I noticed that when I apply a local fast on (tap on while the light is already on), the second switch in the 3-way doesn't follow suit. So if it's the non load connected switch the lights don't go to 100%. Is this just Insteon tough luck or am I missing something? Would of thought that in a scene they'd always follow suit.

If you have a computer running, ISYLink will do that for you

Program looks fine. With the 10min wait the program should recheck the two variables before sending the email. Only thing I would recommend is logging the DSCLink sends to the ISY to make sure it's not doing extra variable toggles (doesn't appear to be based on your screen captures)

The search is your friend. http://forum.universal-devices.com/forum/40-dsclink/

My fan is controlled by a temperature switch that magnetically mounts to the firebox. Nothing else required - turns on when it's hot. See FK24 blower kit for what I mean.

Yes (Android) and Yes

I have two for a year, would definitely buy again. One gets South sun and weather all day, no issues. The only thing I see is minor smoothing of the touchscreen in the front where we enter codes several times a day.

Front door, I use the motor about 10 times a day. Standard Duracell that came with it.

Nope, looks like absolute linear after all. 5.26V/6V = 87%.

What I did... The wall switch for fireplaces is just a low voltage or dry contact. I left the cable in the wall and replaced the on/off switch with a Leviton momentary switch ($3) which always rocks back to off. The cable connects up with the igniter under the fireplace. I placed an IOLinc in the outlet in my fireplace (installed so I could install an FK24 blower kit) and then moved the cable from the igniter to the IOLinc input. I then ran a new piece of cable from the IOLinc output to the igniter. Now my fireplace is controlled by the ISY. If it sees a toggle of the momentary switch it toggles the fireplace on/off. Doing it this way always me to setup my Harmony to control the fireplace as well and also set a time limit on fireplace runtime. I also turn it off automatically when I set my alarm or see too much increase in my main floor thermostat (or delta with my one-wire sensors).

Mines been in for 1 year and still showing 87% and running fine. I would guess the % report is on useful life, not 0-6v. But that's a guess

- Transformer is always powered, close the 24VAC connect to the duct - No ApplianceLinc - I use this because I had a need for 12 VDC as well and wanted an enclosure http://www.seco-larm.com/CCTVPSACDC_C.htm - Sprinkler controller won't work - they only allow one zone to be on at a given time

I have 8 of these dampers. Instead of using 8 transformers I bought one big one and run 18awg wire to each unit. I control then through a relay on an EZIO8SA. An IOLinc woulud work just as good.

Wow, not sure what to say there. In every sense and possible way, -10 is greater than -20

-10 is >= -20

>= is greater than or equal

EVL-3

Chris, I did Enviracom because there was an "pseudo-official" API and I had an IAQ that I wanted to automate. I know it's no the answer you want to hear, but I currently have no intention to write something for Total Connect. Reasons: - I've contacted them in the past and they have been less than helpful with supplying information - I generally don't do unofficial APIs and their official has been delayed for a year now - I don't own one - It's cloud based

Personally I wouldn't mix home automation and a media computer. I'd stick with a dedicated Pi for HA but that's just an opinion.

I run an overclocked Pi (with heatsinks) for XBMC using OpenElec. It works "ok" but it's nowhere near as smooth as using a little atom box. Something like a MyGica ATV is a lot smoother (and a little more expensive). If you do run XBMC on a Pi, I would definitely recommend keeping it dedicated for only that purpose. XMBC needs every bit of horsepower and memory a Pi can offer. As for a Pi for home automation, I use arch linux. Main reason being it's a running distro, so the package manager handles all updates. Looking at the issues people are having with Rasbian, I think arch is easier (aside from it being systemd based). When I get a little time I'm going to put together a step-by-step. I thought about creating a pre-configured image but was a little unsure about licensing and copy write issues doing that.

I actually wrote a program a couple years ago that runs on my Pi to grab WU data and send it to the ISY. If HAM doesn't pan out I'll clean up the app and release it.

I've tried the Venstar, ecobee and Honeywell web portals, they're all very similar in look and functionality. telljcl, Your "double press" issue with the Venstar may be the screen timeout. The Venstar dims the screen a little after a certain amount of idle time (adjustment), after which your first press just wakes the screen. Honeywell does the same thing (the older H touchscreens turned the screen off). It's also good to remember that these are resistive touchscreens (not capacitive like a phone), so their press quality sucks in general. The Honeywell and ecobee I tried were no better. One huge advantage of the Venstar is that you (Venlink) connects locally, which is why I switched to it. The ecobee, Honeywell and Nest (once they get working APIs) are all cloud based.

Yea, I saw you were mentioning a 9V battery for power. I'm doubting it will last very long, they typically are rated around 500 mAh. You're likely pulling a couple watts with the CAI and sensors.

You need 5V to supply the 1-wire interface, 3 won't cut it. When I used a CAI I added an external 5V supply because it was quite unstable pulling off the terminal. I also had to add pull resistors at each sensor location - the bit-banging is a little fussier for signal quality than the hardware 1-wire chips.