Goose66

The decision to run on Polisy only is another architectural change in PG3. This is really going to take out a lot of complexity on managing dependencies and supporting different versions of languages. I can foresee a time when ISY and PG3 are both running on Polisy for the vast majority of users and the REST-based Node Server API is deprecated in favor of direct MQTT between the ISY and the "nodeserver manager" (call it Polyglot if you like). At that point, it would seem that the Polyglot Dashboard would be rolled into ISY Admin Console, as well.

Here's where I differentiate the pricing model. As others have posted, typically if I buy a device, I don't want to have pay monthly to control it. So I generally favor fixed pricing. Looking at my nodeservers, Autelis Pool Control, Venstar Thermostats, Sony AVR, Bond, EnvisaLink, etc., I would likely charge a one-time fee of $15 or so and then you would get updates when I felt they were warranted, e.g., when new features were added to the device APIs. But for MyQ and iAquaLink, these two take a certain amount of vigilance to keep running, because they used unauthorized APIs that the vendors play hot and fast with it to prevent access (or maybe just because they only have to support their own app). In these cases, there is more of a support role here, and a need for me, as a part-time hobbyist developer, to be "on call" to keep the nodeservers running. I would think a monthly or annual subscription would be a better case here because you can just about guarantee that there will be updates required, and you don't want the author disappearing for months until they can get around to updating the nodeserver for API changes (as is sometimes the case now ?).

That's correct. You weren't setting the status of the keypad button through the "Entry All Off" scene, you were adjusting the "Entry All Off" scene so that the "Entry D" button has an "On Level" of "Off." The net of this is now when you turn the "Entry All Off" scene on, the button status will go to Off. So in addition to changing your program to turn the "Entry All Off" scene on or off, make sure you go back to the "Entry All Off" scene setup and reset the "Entry D" "On Level" to "On" in the scene.

It runs every time the state of one of the devices changes.

From the post above: "You create a scene that has nothing but the All On/Off button as a responder - let's call it "Backyard Keypad Button B." So it's a new scene that just has the All On/Off keypad button in it as a responder. The program sets the state of that scene on or off to toggle the state of the keypad button. Note that this isn't just controlling the backlighting of the key, it also toggles the button state between On to Off, which changes what command it sends when subsequently pressed.

I utilize Keypads in several places that have All On/Off button (usually button B in our house) linked to an "Everything" scene containing devices that are in other scenes or operated on their own. The approach that I use is programs on the ISY. You create a scene that has nothing but the All On/Off button as a responder - let's call it "Backyard Keypad Button B." The same All On/Off button is a controller in the "Everything" scene. Then add a program that names every device in the "Everything" scene like so: Backyard Keypad Button B Status - [ID 0032][Parent 001E] If 'Backyard / Balcony Lantern' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Balcony Can C' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Pool Deck Floods' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Gazebo L Sconce' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Gazebo R Sconce' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Balcony Lanterns' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Covered Porch Lantern' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Covered Porch Lanterns' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Stair Lanterns' Status is not Off Or 'Backyard / Backyard Floods' Status is not Off Then Set 'Backyard Keypad Button B' On Else Set 'Backyard Keypad Button B' Off In this way, if any device in the "Everything" scene is turned on directly, by another scene, or by another program, then All On/Off button will illuminate, and pressing it will make sure everything is turned off. If the last device in the "Everything" scene is turned off, then the All On/Off button will turn off. This example shows the setup favoring the All Off function. But it could be very easily changed to favor the All On function, i.e. change the if statements to "'<device>' Status is Off," the Then to Set 'Backyard Keypad Button B' to Off, and the Else to set it to On, and then the All On/Off button will be lit only when EVERY device in the Everything On scene is on. In some cases in the past, I have had to put a 2 or 3 second Wait in the program before turning the button scene on or off to prevent some "bouncing" of the status. But I just do this if I am noticing a problem.

If you aren't going to put a smart switch in the garage, then fine. But I'm OCD, so if there were a three-way switch in there before, I would want a smart switch operating as a scene controller (slave) in there now. Another advantage of this is that it could work as a bridge from the house Insteon network to the shed Insteon network, since they appear to be on different breaker boxes (although the shed breaker box is probably already downstream of a main one in your house). Or, you could take the opportunity to put an Insteon Keypad in and control lots of stuff in the backyard from the garage.

This message appears when the password for the ISY is lost, usually after a Polyglot restart. The Password you want to change is under Settings/Polyglot Settings in the ISY Settings section, and should be the password of the ISY (same one you use to access the Admin console).

@MrBill I don't know where this became so unnecessarily complex. If the OP rewires the circuit, most likely in the j-box at one of the fixtures, to have line (black) and neutral (white) go into each switch box, uses the red wire for load from one of the smart switches back to the light, and caps the red going to the other smart switch, then, bam, all good and to code - no fuss. Any suggestion that once you use a white wire as a traveler you can never go back and rewire it be a neutral is simply absurd.

I don't think anybody has suggested working around code. Installing smart switches here with the existing wire would not violate any code, again, as long as the entire circuit was rewired back to the source.

I'm not arguing code with you - just making an attempt at humor. Code has it's uses, one of the primary ones being that electricians aren't generally electrical engineers. But in this case the code creates an unnecessary expense, IMO, because if smart switches are being installed (requiring the neutral), then the travelers are no longer needed. Regardless, smart switches can be installed in the OPs circuit using the existing wiring just fine, as long as it is rewired all the way back to the source.

I'm just saying that creates a lot of additional expense for 3-way circuits over traditional use of 14/3 wire with the addition of a little electrical tape on the white wire.

Also note that the diagram above of the circuit using/requiring 14/4 wire was obviously made before the price of copper got so high! ?

I am going to stick with recommending an electrician since it seems that you are unsure. That said, I'm curious to why the switches were removed in the first place - I don't think your original post said. If the original switches were removed to be replaced with Zwave or Insteon switches, I am hoping your take away here is that the circuit HAS TO BE REWIRED all the way back to the original location of the power and neutral from the breaker in order to make it work, so the current wiring scheme will not be sufficient, even if you could identify it. Also, non-contact voltage testers are good for keeping you from getting electrocuted, but suck in determining how a circuit is wired. I would suggest a volt meter instead. If your house is in the U.S. and built since the 70s, you can test all wires to ground. 0V to ground will be a neutral, 120V to ground will be a hot (line) and some interim voltage is likely an unpowered traveler.

I have noticed also noticed that the finder frequently doesn't work. The only virtual network I have is the VPN to my office, and finder sometimes works when that is connected and sometimes when it's not. Regardless of the VPN connection status, though, doing an Add with either http://isy or http://<local-ip-address> always works. However, sometimes when I return to finder the manually added connections are there, and sometime they are not, and if finder has not found the ISY, I have to manually add it again. There appears to be no pattern in my situation, but I will admit I haven't spent a lot of time trying to track down the problem.

Ah, I swear the 2413U showed "sold out" when I posted that post, but it does now show "in stock."

What are the PLM options? Just USB or will a serial PLM work? EDIT: Never mind - can't buy either, so it doesn't really matter.

Had you previously set a static IP on your ISY, or did you give it a IP address reservation in your old router?

As discussed many (many, many, many...) times before the Else clause is not that useful in ISY programs because of the fact that the trigger conditions for the program and the boolean logic in the if are all wrapped together and can't be separated. This has caused much confusion over the 12 or so years I have been on these forums. This is a classic example where you need two programs to get the "expected" or "desired" behavior (I understand this is just a test program). First program is enabled, and contains the "trigger" condition: If 'South - MS - Dawn Dusk' is switched Off Then Run Program SunRiseNotifications (If) Else <--- No Action ---> The second program, SunRiseNotifications, is disabled and contains the conditions you want to test in the if, but not necessarily trigger the program(s): If From 6:00:00AM To 9:30:00AM (same day) Then $Sunset.Flag = 0 Send Notification to 'Broyd' content 'Sunrise Now' Wait 1 minute Send Notification to 'Broyd' content 'Sunrise Now' Else $Sunset.Flag = 0 Send Notification to 'Broyd.Email' content 'Sunrise Now' Wait 1 minute Send Notification to 'Broyd.Email' content 'Sunrise Now'

There is a Polyglot Nodeserver for the Autelis for Jandy AquaLink RS in the nodeserver store. The one for Autelis for Pentair was a one-off for a specific user and could not be tested by the developer. However, as carealtor said, it is available in Github. A python programmer could add light support from the AquaLink nodeserver to the Pentair nodeserver fairly easily. Of course, that's all assuming you can get an Autelis. I've been watching a few projects to make an Autelis-like daemon for the RPi. Something like this would be a good replacement and would be better than iAquaLink (takes the cloud service out of the equation). The Autelis nodeserver could be converted very efficiently. Maybe when Polyglot 3.0 is released with paid nodeservers, this will be a worthy project to take on for Jandy AquaLink and Pentair.

May not like that answer, but you probably will like this one: There is an iAquaLink nodeserver in the Polyglot Node Server Store that will run on your Polisy or in Polyglot Cloud (no Polisy required).

I suspect a bot post, trying to establish some sort of cred on the site so it can then feed advertisements to users. As far as bot posts go, it's not bad. ?

How did I miss this?

I would suggest a little bit different structure. It is often the case that you need two programs when switching "modes" results in long running programs. You'll see the two tier programming structure in a lot of examples around on this site. Here you need two two-tier programs (four total programs): A FreezeProtectionMode On pair of programs and a FreezeProtectionMode Off pair of programs. The FreezeProtectionMode On pair of programs consists of a "trigger program" that is enabled and uses a state variable: If FreezeProtectionMode = 0 And PoolTemp <= 34 degrees Then Run Program TurnFreezeProtectionModeOn (Then Branch) Else <--- No Action ---> The second program in the pair is disabled, sets the state variable, and performs the actions: If Then Set FreezeProtectionMode Value = 1 Set FreezeProtectionMode Default = 1 Repeat Every 2 Hours ... The FreezeProtectionMode Off pair of programs also has an enabled "trigger program": If FreezeProtectionMode = 1 And PoolTemp >= 37 degrees Then Run Program TurnFreezeProtectionModeOn (Else Branch) Else <--- No Action ---> The "second" program of the Off pair could be it's own program that resets the state variable, kills any running TurnFreezeProtectionModeOn program and performs the necessary functions to restore the pool to normal operating mode, or it could just all go into the Else branch of the TurnFreezeProtectionModeOn program to keep all the statements together. The other good thing about putting it in the Else branch is that any running instance of the TurnFreezeProtectionModeOn is automatically killed (i.e. any Repeat or Wait is preempted) in favor of the new instance of the Else branch of the program.

There's lots of info online about interfacing an Arduino Uno Wifi with the sonar sensor. There's also code available online to install a REST server on the Arduino. You could have the Arduino constantly reading the garage bay(s) and storing the height of the car in each, and then make that info available through a REST call that the ISY could poll on a regular basis for determination of which vehicle is in which bay. Eventually, it could be a nodeserver in the nodeserver store along with instructions for building the unit.