johnnyt

I have a KPL relay where the load is stuck ON (even when I air gap the thing - is that possible? it doesn't seem right - how do I turn the light off??) I linked a new one in (spare I kept in inventory of the same type and version -> a 6 button KPL relay v36 converted to 8 button operation), did a find/replace on all the programs, saved programs, then did a right click on bad device to "replace with" good device. New device names disappear from my network (replaced with old device names, presumably) but all my programs end up with where the new device should now be. Have done this three times now. Have re-read the wiki instructions each time to make sure I'm taking all the right steps in the right order. What am I doing wrong? Am running firmware 3.1.11.

Was debugging something and noticed programs were executing almost 30 secs ahead of the clock in the GUI. The "last run time" would update to the expected new run time, e.g. 5:30:00 PM but the clock at the top left of the console was at about 5:29:34 or something like that when the "last run time" was updated. I tried a manual time sync and it didn't change the time, and there's no indication the automatic syncs aren't working (every 6 hours in my case). I did notice the GUI is a few seconds ahead of my PC clock. In this case the GUI had been running about 30 minutes or so when I noticed this, so if it gets it's time from either the PC or ISY at startup, it certainly loses track of it quickly. Any idea what's going on? Edit: am running ISY 3.1.11, Java 1.6 update 29, W7

I use Midon Design pre-built kits. I have ten "MD3020E" temp/humidity sensors, some in custom enclosures, others hidden in cold air returns. See mid way down the page @ http://www.midondesign.com/Sensors/sensors.html All are read by the "Temp08", which reports the data out an RS232 serial port http://www.midondesign.com/TEMP08/TEMP08.html The Temp08 also supports other sensors and relay devices. From the manual at http://www.midondesign.com/Documents/TEMP08UserGuide.PDF: · Multiple DS2438-based Humidity Sensors, including, of course, the Midon Design MD3020E Humidity Sensor. · Multiple DS2438 based Barometric Sensors · Multiple DS2438 general purpose sensors for analog voltage input · Multiple DS18S20, DS18S20-PAR, DS18B20, DS1822, DS1920 temperature sensors as well as temperature reading from any DS2438 · One DS2450 based Weather Station for wind speed and wind direction · Multiple DS2450 voltage sensors · Multiple DS2423 based rain gauges · Multiple DS2423 general purpose counters (for use with Lightning sensors and other types of counter inputs) · Multiple DS2401 or DS1990 1-Wire serial numbers (only presence will be reported) · Up to 20 1WIO relay interface modules (or equivalent DS2408 based relay module) available from Midon Design · Up to 10 1WIO LED modules (available from Midon Design) · Up to 20 1WIO Input modules (available from Midon Design)

What I'd really like to see is energy (pardon the pun) spent on support for a (wired) one-wire temperature and humidity sensor solution. I think temp/hum (and thermostats, actually) should be kept off the insteon network, especially if each has to be polled every minute, times # of sensors (& stats). Teken, I currently use a HomeSeer and one-wire based sol'n (that I would like to move to ISY but can't right now) for what you'd like to do. I routinely turn on house ventilation to balance out the temperature in the house. However, unless one lives in a particularly dry region, the biggest bang for the buck IMO is with respect to managing humidity in the house. I'm able to turn on the bathroom fans when the humidity hits ~12% higher in one compared with the humidity on the main floor (far from bathrooms, kitchen, laundry room) then off again when it comes back down. In winter I turn on/off the furnace humidifier and HRV based on indoor humidity levels and the outside temperature. In summer I also control the HRV around temp and humidity outside, turn on/off a dehumidifier, and lower the AC setpoint when the humidity in the house is high but the temp is not quite high enough to otherwise trigger the AC. I have to say the automagic bathroom fans have been the most visible automation tricks in my bag next to motion/scene lighting. While people don't see much of the stuff going on, I consider humidity control in general to have provided the highest ROI since, unlike much of the other automation stuff (that I like too), it contributes directly to the house's and my family's health.

Hi, I'm looking for advice on the value of converting from using physical COM ports and RS232-to-USB converters to a RS232-to-IP serial server. I ask in this forum because, one, people here are brilliant , and second because my medium to long term plan is to move everything to ISY from HomeSeer, possibly replace my DSC alarm with ELK, and add other ISY supported devices for energy metering, etc. Am a bit constrained in the short (and possibly medium) term waiting for a good wired thermostat sol'n and a 1-wire temp & humidity sol'n but am hoping the medium to long term promises good things in this area. How much are serial devices a part of ISY controlled solutions, either directly supported or through 3rd party products/utilities? The HomeSeer forum has a number of folks who seem to swear by serial servers, particularly for virtualization, which I plan to go to when I refresh my HA server imminently (for HomeSeer, DSCLink, shared files, Windows Home Server for backups, etc.) See http://tinkertry.com/vzilla/, although mine will be a scaled back version. I'm not sure if a serial server is a must have or a nice to have (and how nice) for ISY and other reasons. FWIW, I currently have 5 serial devices, which would mean >$400 for a good 8-port device (Quatech brand seems to come highly rated, with people saying you get what you pay for so don't cheap out on a device). People also keep saying they get stuff like this for less than $50 on ebay - always seems everyone finds what they want for $50 on ebay in these forums It's certainly not been my experience. My RS232 devices include APC UPS with smart signalling (a special cable), Midon Design's Temp08 (a 1-wire temp/hum sensor reader), RCS TR40 thermostat, W800 X10 RF receiver, and DSC Alarm panel interface (PC5402). For the DSC panel I'm currently using a software solution with DSClink, described here http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6921. I could keep using that and only buy a 4-port SS but would have no room to grow. Plus I'm wondering if the odd (daily) missed messages from the DSC panel are caused by the SS s/w solution or the RS232-to-usb converter I'm using to get the messages to it. Either way, I see some value in standardizing to a single h/w SS solution and having room to grow if it's a worthwhile expense. Is it? Any advice would be appreciated.

You'll need to upgrade to v3 of the firmware to experiment with variables. Alternatively in v2 you can use programs as (binary) variables (true or false) Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Could there be a bad link to the download? When I downloaded, the file was 417k. Previous betas were 4.6M. I haven't tried to load the 417k version yet. Kevin 3.1.10 is 4.6M but 3.1.11 found here http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=6015 is only 470 KB. Haven't tried to install the later yet; should it be about 4.6M too?

Maybe you could just leave the universal module in and send the X10 command to make it beep as part of the program? Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

How about a 3.1.8.1 release to get the log working. I'm trying to see if the errors being generated with DSCLink in 3.1.7 has been fixed, not to mention if new errors are occurring. Notwithstanding errors I can't see this release seems to be working fine so far.

While the SonicWall SRA 1200 sounds like it might do what I'm looking for, it's well outside my budget for this... even if I hadn't already invested in my other router (at about a quarter of the price)

what's the security implication of this on the rest of my surfing and emailing, etc.?

I can't install any client s/w on my work machine. In fact it won't even let me install the active X app that my SSL VPN router pushes out for it to provide that path into my home network (I bought the router in part hoping to use the SSL VPN functionality for this). I also cannot change the browser settings to allow any active X app to run. Things are locked down pretty tight.

Would like to setup a reverse proxy server to share one inbound TCP port 443 (https) between three web servers on my LAN: my router admin, Homeseer and ISY. The main reason for it is that the corporate firewall at my work does not allow one to use anything other than port 443 with https. That means before I leave the house I have to chose one server (only) to expose. Secondary reasons are convenience and security (at least I think it's more secure and improves client side convenience). Am wondering if: 1) ISY with network module can act as a reverse proxy server? (doesn't look like it to me but want to confirm) 2) there are any recommendations (and some how to's) for setting up a Windows XP compatible reverse proxy server with SSL that would allow me to use my target web server by simply appending something like "/ISY", "/HS", "/router" to the url? Any advice would be appreciated.

Would 1 yr old devices be considered "relatively new"? Wouldn't "automatic" use i2 when it can? Why would a device that can work with i2 not restore quickly in automatic mode?

Have used this method at least half a dozen times and so far so good - only one login required. The other way I would have had to login twice at least once by now. Thanks.

I've settled on entering (via a bookmark) http://192.168.0.250/admin.jnpl in Firefox 4.0.1 for the last several months. Have also tried that URL as well as "http://192.168.0.250/admin" in older versions of Firefox, as well as IE 8, all with similar intermittent results.

Just as a quick update on this problem. I recently starting using a Windows XP machine that I have as a file server to call up the ISY GUI and found it does not require two logins (except when I clear the cache, of course.) The problem is still happening frequently but intermittently on both my Vista 32 bit and Win 7 64 bit machines, under Java 6 update 26 and running firmware 3.1.5.

using the calculator, I should be closer to 500. how I can prevent all insteon traffic while reading the links table? last time it took at least 15 mins to get through it. can I just plug the plm into a filterlinc? thanks.

so how do I deal with motion sensors when restoring a plm with a regular isy99i (/ir for what that's worth)?

it's a 2413S. I think there's something weird going on. I have maybe 60-70 scenes. how can I do a reconciliation/reset with what I think is a reality that has far fewer links? how did I get to this in the first place?

not seeing those on mine

where do I find "battery mode" and "batch mode"?

okay, forget the 177 links I said earlier. There are 2065 links in my latest count. Yikes! I have about 48 devices. That seems like a lotta links! Did I read somewhere before that PLM's start to give you grief above 800 links? I can't search the forum using the word "links" to find the reference; it ignores that word.

So I went through the procedure to replace my PLM with a new one after being advised to replace my current one due to a hiccup with it a few days ago. (in a timely move I had ordered a spare and it just arrived today) again when I followed the instructions to do the restore it said to set all my motion sensors into linking mode before the restore, but each second one I put into linking mode would just link up to the first and neither would end up in linking mode. In the end I can only put one in linking mode. Of course, as the restore proceeded it gave messages that it could not communicate with my motion sensors. Is there something I'm misunderstanding?

Thanks for the reply. When you say a "defective PLM", does that mean it's on its way out? is it just a matter of (a short) time before it does this again? should I replace it? Also, I am expecting a new PLM any day now (a potentially timely insurance purchase I made). I assume that's like doing a factory reset. How does that make things different? Thanks again.