Teken

If the unit is indeed a 994 Series Controller any of them can be upgraded to Zigbee / Z-Wave. UDI is using the latest chip set which allows its firmware to be updated so no worries there. Z-Wave is still in Beta trials at the moment even though its being sold in on line stores. I believe many Z-Wave devices are now supported and many more will be forth coming as the new year comes around.

When you have time you're going to have to unplug the fan to see if the noise is from the fan. Besides that you still need to confirm proper coupling / bridging. If you have many (unfiltered) UPS in the home its a sure thing this is another aspect impacting your insteon reliability. Will it cost more money to filter those UPS units? Yes . . . Will it be worth while in the long term? Yes . . . You have three tasks at hand at the moment so just do the easy one's first. Beacon test (coupling) and unplugging the fan and seeing the results. Before even doing all of the above it would be simpler to unplug all the UPS units, chargers, electronics, and see if the COM's are restored.

Again, you really need to know what the ambient temperature is in the attic for all seasons. Very few electronics are designed or made for out door use and in extreme temperature zones. All of the devices you have selected are intended for indoor use and rated as such. Even though Leviton is a high quality manufacture they do not rate this device for outdoor use or for extreme temperature environments. You're going to be doing this up and down shuffle next week, month, or next year. This is why for my own environment I went for a purpose built 1 wire sensor that could sustain extreme heat and cold all the while controlling the fans in my attic space. The switch is not in the attic space at all just the wires and the fan motor and the this provides long term use and reliability.

If you decide to upgrade the generator for one that outputs as close to true sine wave power. Many of the Generac models and the Kohler models perform very well and provide clean electricity for computers and sensitive electronics. If you're simply looking for a small portable one you can not go wrong with a Honda EU 2000 / 3000 models. They are pretty much the standard in terms of small, portable, fuel efficient, low noise, and true clean power output.

Well my friend that's your answer! [emoji4] Where you live does it get colder than -20 F? Do you have any outside now or intend to use them outdoors? How long does the Dakota unit last on a set of batteries? Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

I believe it comes down to range / coverage and the environment it needs to installed into. If you just want to try another style / brand while saving some money you really can't go wrong with the Insteon one. Tens of thousands of people are using them with great success including myself. What is the reason for asking now? Just want to try a new device? Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

I think if you're happy with the sensor and price isn't a issue go ahead. Does the Dakota sensor have the following features: send on only, night mode, programming via ISY, adjustable on / off times, dusk to dawn, etc? Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Well besides the 5 times price difference it requires another module to interface to Insteon. I have never read about anyone owning this device much less integrating it to Insteon. Is there a reason you want this unit besides the extended range? Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Hello Greg, To clarify what type of lights do you have in place that are strobing / flashing? What model and brand is this generator that you have in place now. With respect to the bonded vs floating neutral I am assuming you're speaking about the transfer switch and not the actual sub panel / main panel?

If you bought it in the last year it should be a dual band KPL. If you have the box you can confirm by the literature and of course you can confirm on the SH invoice. Follow the beacon test outlined for either the KPL / PLM and report back your results. Also, you would be better served by purchasing a On / Off relay or dimmer module as it will allow you to have dual use. I prefer the Access Points (AP) now called range extenders. But, they only serve one purpose and that is to couple / bridge the two sides of the electrical feed and does so actively. Where as the other unit you indicate is a passive unit and does not strengthen the signal and rebroadcast the insteon signal. It simply passes the signal over to the next side of the electrical feed as it was.

Hello Gee, I am going to assume you meant you have a 2413S dual band PLM and not a 2413U. Based on what you describe you only have one dual band device in the home which (I assume) is the dual band 2413S. Unless you can state the KPL (6 Button) unit is also a dual band unit which all of them now are if you purchased them this year. Proper coupling is imperative regardless if (Insteon) devices are on the same leg. I can appreciate how you feel about just having something work. Trust me, once you can determine if its the load a solution will be forth coming. Hang tight . . .

Without first performing the 4 tab bridging test there is no sure way to confirm proper coupling. Please find some time to complete this task for the device (versions) you have at home. There are some X10 devices which do not play well with Insteon and can cause unreliable behavior. As a quick test and trouble shooting just remove any X10 power line device from the network. Next, when a device turns on fine but has a problem turning off its normally the load that is giving Insteon device a problem. Its either being overwhelmed by spurious noise or the actual signal is being sucked in. I know this will not be easy but a simple test to see if its the (fan) load causing the issue is to unplug it. At that point in time turn the OL on and off via the ISY Admin Console. If it works you know its the load and can filter it or replace it. If the red exclamation mark comes back while the load is unplugged and (after) you have confirmed proper coupling. The OL could simply require a hard factory reset, if not and its damaged send it back under warranty. NOTE: I know this may sound odd but bare with me. Insteon has under development a brand new dual band relay outlet linc which can control both top and bottom outlets. The spec's are far superior in terms of surge protection, power consumption, and load support. I would probably wait for this new device to be released and then make a warranty return and get the latest unit.

Hello Greg, Insteon requires a neutral at all times to operate correctly. There are not very many portable generators that output a pure sine wave power. Unless its a high end Honda / Yamaha which do in fact provide a nice regulated and pure sine wave output. Also, you will notice flashing / strobing with LED light fixtures when compared to standard incandescent lights which simply get dimmer / brighter as the voltage fluctuates.

If noise makers / signal suckers are not found after following Xathros suggestions. And coupling has been verified your next step is to hard reset the outlet linc device. This will at least bring the device back to a factory state in case it was some how hung up in the ether!

Beta *A Typically* does indeed imply a few unknowns. But, rest assured the latest release has very little if at all bugs at the moment. Please do reply back once you're able to complete the coupling / bridging test. As an aside, how many dual band Insteon devices do you have installed now?

Once you confirm proper coupling / bridging I would upgrade the ISY to the latest beta firmware. This would at least bring you to the most current revision most people are using. Things to consider is that if the attic space is extremely hot which most are. The device may be working beyond its operating limit which it was designed for. Is the outlet physically inside the unconditioned space? If you have a method to measure the attic temperature this would provide you some more insight. For your reference I have 48 1 wire temperature sensors through out my home which monitors various locations / devices. My attic temperature during the blazing summer heat has reached more than 53'C / 127'F http://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=929&start=50

Some things to consider and verify in your environment. Have you confirmed you have coupled the two sides of the electrical feed with another dual band device by performing the 4 tap test outlined in the users manual? Once proper coupling has been confirmed you can move forward. Next, what is the load this outlet is controlling? What ISY firmware are you running at this point in time listed in the Help menu?

Hello DirkR, To add to my colleagues information to access your ISY Series Controller will require that you make it reachable from outside of the LAN. This will require that you set up port forwarding on your router / modem.

Totally forgot that little nugget thank you! Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Awesome! Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Brian, If you haven't rebooted the router after making the changes I would do so now. Prior to that I would reboot the modem first. Wait for it to com back up. Then reboot the router and see if it resolves the issue. If not, I would reserve the IP address via MAC addressing in the router for the ISY. This will allow you to leave the ISY in DHCP mode. The benefit to doing it this way is that any network related changes will propagate to all DHCP set devices. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

One of several things I do out of course is first track each device with their Insteon ID on a Excel spread sheet. That same information is also written down on a users manual. Next I then tape over the ID with clear tape. Any device that is outside or mission critical has a separate label inserted to the inside of the MS with a label maker. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

LeeG, Understood, but I believe the option should be given to the end user to decide. A simple caveat pop up message is all that is needed for the masses I believe. The worst case scenario is you drain a battery and leave a set of lights on. [emoji4] Regardless, thank you for the insight. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

I believe that is still one of the strengths of the HL and HUB. Both software and controller are able to update programming and be enrolled with out actually pressing the set button. I don't recall off the top of my head why this critical feature can not be incorporated into the ISY Series Controller but that is truly one of the lacking features for the ISY.

Hello Charles, Does adding the old MS via the *Start Linking* not allow you to enroll the old device? The *Start Linking* is the two colored whirling arrows next to the New Insteon (Light Bulb) icon.