Teken

Well the plus side is that you shouldn't have any issue then. Since they are on the same leg, keeping in mind this in no way addresses any noise related issues that may be present.

I really wish there was a method that didn't require so much middle ware to get this going. As much as I dislike the whole Apple thing their *Home Kit* is exactly what is needed to allow 3rd party devices all talking the same language and integrating one another. I really can't wait until that day comes.

The approach Z-Wave has taken is different so keep that in mind. Their RF output is more than likely rated at the maximum or close to what is allowed under FCC regulations. Insteon (on the surface) appears to have some flaws in their deployment of the same. - Limited RF output when compared to other makers. - Poor placement of the RF antenna which impacts signal strength. - Different frequency which plays a role in distance, noise rejection, etc. - Device sensitivity of capturing the RF signal. With Z wave all their devices are made to be as sensitive to receive RF as that is their only method to communicate. At the end of the day a pound of salt must be taken when considering this whole dual band marketing.

Since you live in Canada most homes use metal JBOX's. After market box's can be purchased (Carlton) which are made of resin / fiberglass plastics. At Home Depot / Lowes / Rona they are special order if you need them. My point regarding the installation of extra devices on different floors is from experience. Now, keep in mind you and I don't have money to burn so I am not asking you to just wild willy purchase something that won't be used. The reality is RF from insteon devices are marginal when placed in a standard metal enclosure. It doesn't help that Smartlabs insists upon placing the freaking antenna in the rear of the unit also! That is why having a few (plug In) dual band units that (you may have future use) can dramatically increase the reliability of your Insteon network. At the end of the day only you can decide to deploy more gear in areas you feel will see use, or even daily use.

Assuming the load is with in the fan linc (which I doubt) it could work. But, you would need to confirm how the humidifier is wired to control the fans low, med, high. Worse case scenario would be to use a micro on / off relay to turn on the speeds you wish. This of course cost much more money then the fanlinc but that is an alternate solution. I did this with my three speed over head range exhaust fan.

You have several methods but isn't exactly what you're asking for. You can run the diagnostic at level 3 and see how many hops it takes etc. You can do a scene test which basically turns on / off the linked devices in that scene which obviously shows you the linked devices either work or don't and you can watch the diagnostic page while this is happening. You can also down load a free copy of House Linc (HL) which has a great diagnostic feature that you can define how many signal blasts and for how any times and watch the results. Please keep in mind I offered this as a alternate method to diagnose your homes Insteon network. Its not intended to remain there and operational as it can cause major havok to the existing links in the devices and to those associated to the ISY. With respect to the LED light. Do you have a Insteon Bulb Linc?? If so I am assuming its allowed to be remained powered? If not it won't operate as its intended for pull chain lights or where there is no actual switch to turn the power on / off. This device must remain powered to use. I also noted you indicated the garage linc?? Are you talking about the I/O Linc? This device is not a dual band device its simply power line only.

Regardless of what you read from the literature via the SH site. The reality is that all of this assumes the best case scenario. Meaning you simply have wires connecting to other wires in the home. Coupling both sides of the electrical feed via a dual band unit will assist in bridging the COM's so the Insteon signal can traverse from one to the other assuming it needs to talk to another Insteon device(s). Now, you add in real world loads from LED, CFL, Ballasts, Motors, Resistive loads, where it either makes noise or sucks the Insteon signal from getting threw. The point being is having dual band devices in all foors, areas, zones, phase, will ensure Insteon COM's are adequate. Keeping in mind as stated before no amount of Insteon devices, bridging, will over come a noise issue.

Disable the program and report back what happens once you manually press the KPL. If the buttons LED's remain lit simply blow away the program and start a new. If the LED's still go dark (even with a disabled program) hard reset the KPL.

OK, so I am glad I understood the basic principle as I knew them. But, what is stopping you from actually making some kind of On Demand Response widget, feature, thing a ma jig in your App? Excluding any potential legal ramifications etc.

Can you please expand on what this means in laymen's terms? I believe I know what it means in a general sense but don't understand why NEST would not allow 3rd party device to reduce power consumption??

I would add however that the ISY can be used in its most basic form should it be required. If however you feel the need for more conditional control over your Insteon network then the ISY is ready for that too. Its fair to say the ISY is more then capable in managing your homes locks, lighting, HVAC, energy, network related devices. It comes down to just doing the basics first then adding on as your time and knowledge grows.

I believe this is one of many reasons why so many people get confused about confirming bridging / coupling. Since various iterations even with in the same manufactured date either have new features or those removed. Case in point the users manual indicates the KPL Relay can perform the beacon test. Where as the eight button KPL dimmer does not, but does offer that the unit can be programmed to indicate a red LED if the end device(s) do not respond. Even though the error (Red) LED is not the same as the beacon test. It does offer some visual confirmation that COM's are good, or did not get received.

If you can plug in a router and assign network IP address's to a device in the home. Then, you will be more then fine to use and program the basics of the ISY. More complicated conditional programs just take longer to understand how they operate and function. Should you need any help or assistance UDI is only a phone call away. You also have the benefit of very large data base in the UDI forum and that of the ISY membership to help in all aspects.

I believe that is the current RC. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

What does your ISY Help say you're on?

I have seen this problem before as you have listed. It was some how associated to a one of the Beta releases which obviously had a bug in it. Once I reverted back to a older firmware the numerical values went away and the actual (expected) names were restored. I have also seen this same problem when the firmware load fails and corrupts the ISY data base. In both cases reloading a good known back up or moving to a proven firmware release has resolved this issue for me.

Bob, I know this isn't what you specifically ask for. But, it was noted by UDI in the next 5.XX firmware release that if you had two ISY Series Controllers with the network module. Both of them could communicate with one another so one unit would have Zigbee while the other had Z-wave. Its more hardware cost up front but this does provide a path for having both protocols in a single home.

I can't speak for the OP but for me some of the dual band KPL's control the central exhaust motor, LED bulbs. While others the load is not connected to anything yet they persist in a extremely low buzzing. A hum is not what I hear (specifically) and if you place your ear next to the KPL you can in fact hear the Insteon traffic coming and going as the signal is transmitted. I know a few people here have newer hardware revisions which I do not have. So, my plans are to wait until the new year and send some of them back under warranty and see if the newer hardware resolve this issue. I am hoping I don't get a tech support personal that tells me this is normal and acceptable. As many people have been told this over the phone and warranty was not given. Planning ahead its probably wise to just say the device has some unknown issues and leave it at that!

Is it normal in the context of HA light switches when compared to other brands? No . . . Is the noise, buzz, hum, pulsing present with these Insteon KPL's? Yes . . . Do they all make this annoying noise? Yes, which is more apparent if your high frequency hearing is still good. Ambient back ground noise or the lack of also plays a key role in hearing this noise. From personal experience since the dual band relay KPL was released. This noise has been present in the last 2.5 years with varying degrees of noise output. Having purchased 12 of them with various hardware / firmware releases during the course of 2.5 years. This noise still persists! [emoji35] Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

From personal experience these 2011 KPL devices exhibits a much different boot up / power on when compared to later releases. They also function and act differently when a improper load is installed. Some also pulse, flicker, and buzz when very brief power outages are experienced. Over the years quite a few features have been removed from the KPL. I am eager to see what new features will be incorporated next year. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

I agree with Stu. You need to call out how many devices are dual band. As stated I do prefer to use AP / range extenders for coupling both sides of the electrical feed. After that Insteon devices are simply placed where ever they are required. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Yes . . . Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

This is what I expected to happen to be honest. Thanks for taking the time to test and follow up. I can assure you countless thousands of people know exactly how you feel about taking out a switch and doing the exact same thing 9999999999 later on. As stated in another thread I highly suggest when you're inclined to expand your Insteon network. That you purchase either a AP / Range Extender, or one of the On / Off, Dimmer plug in modules and ensure you confirm proper coupling / bridging. This will provide you the most consistent performance, range, and reliability. Its never fun to install a piece of gear in a remote location when you know it will not be used actively vs being used as a remote switch etc. But, rest assured once you have coupled all floors, areas, zones, these thoughts will be gone besides the lighter wallet!

I am unsure if the HUB sitting there would actually couple anything. But, give it a try and report back what the results are. I would be pretty surprised if it coupled / bridged Insteon devices with out something enrolled into the controller. A simple test would be to plug it in and see if any traffic is picked up via the LED's. I don't own one so don't know if it has LED's that reflect the insteon traffic as it does on other devices.

This is another similar product that I reviewed last year. I decided to sit on the fence until a number of people provided feed back about the quality, run time, and over all build.