Teken

Have you tried to use the default time server to see if there is a difference: pool.ntp.org

Unfortunately, First Alert has rebranded the One Link name to encompass all of their current wares.

The new home kit version operates on a different frequency and is not one link compatible with the Insteon smoke bridge. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Press the set button . . .

You can always buy a extra controller but I would think your focus should be on the basics. What do you have in place now that protects your home, electrical, and electronics appliances? 1. Do you have a solid low resistance (< 50 ohm) ground from the meter entrance properly secured to Earth ground. 2. Do you have any Type 1, 2, 3 SPD's in place. 3. Do you have a properly sized UPS system in place. 4. Do you have a AVR in place to ensure the line voltage is a rock steady 120 VAC? 5. Do you have the proper home owner insurance that covers your entire home and its contents to the limits you need? 6. Do you perform a regular back up of your ISY on a regular basis and are they off site? Many of these elements are the most basics that should be in place to ensure your entire home is well protected. Regardless of all the high tech your home must be properly insured against loss. This is the only thing that will make you whole when a disaster happens . . .

Hello Mark, The Wiki entry doesn't have a huge amount of information about the ALL ON / ALL OFF situation. But does offer some insight to conditions that may contribute to the problem. If you are able to scratch off all of the listed *possible* issues from the WiKi. The next steps require more investment in time or finances. You will need to decide if your time is more valuable then the short term investment of money. Meaning some users have replaced the Insteon GDO kit with Z-Wave products. While some have gone through the entire programming logic and added wait times to any programs in hopes of eliminating said problem. When you find the two massive ALL ON / ALL OFF thread you will note my views on the issue at hand.

Hello Mark, There are at least two lengthy threads about what to do for this condition which you can find in the UDI Wiki. Also, do you believe you can make this happen again?

There is also a price difference in the two portals along with push notifications those using the Mobilinc service.

Yes, for a battery operated device you would need that hardware to change state. Now, since various battery operated devices have different options they could be used to update the status in a round about way. Keeping in mind some of them are obviously not very practical but do offer possible uses. 1. Low Battery: This wouldn't be used at all in this situation because it could take months for this node to ever appear. 2. Dusk / Dawn: This has a window of opportunity but it depends upon environmentals and installation position. 3. Heart Beat: This feature is only available on the Open-Close, Hidden Door, Leak Sensor and only happens every 24 hours. The Hidden Door Sensor can be adjusted to check in sooner along with voltage levels. 4. Status / Control: Of course this would require the device to be activated either open/closed, walking past the FOV of the MS, or a leak detection etc.

If this item is a hardwired device you could perform a query to obtain the current state.

In your initial reply you said you haven't used it in awhile? Does that mean this fan linc was in service in your home before and operated just fine upon removal? If so how long did it take before you noticed the problem you illustrated above?

I really think it comes down to trial and error at this point. The only Insteon product that formally supports LED lighting is the InLine Linc (ILL) dimmer. I've taken one apart and compared it to others such as the Lamp Linc, Switch Linc, KPL, and no obvious differences are present. I've been using various brands of LED bulbs with all of the above with great success and no issues thus far. At this point take one for the team . . .

Yes . . .

LMAO I have no words . . . [emoji848][emoji33][emoji50][emoji23]

In the ideal world ZigBee would encompass all of the different profiles into one global standard. Sadly, nobody in the ZigBee camp thought that far and hence the massive limitations. And people wounder why adoption in the home automation industry is so disjointed and lack luster.

The ISY does not support the ZigBee HA profile just energy monitoring / management. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Can you offer a better picture of the entire PCB of the unit. The ones posted here are really poor quality. Also, is there anything else inside of the unit that appears burnt or exploded?

Was the burned section inside of the case when you opened it?

I probably wouldn't tempt fate and use that AC unit on that replacement dual outlet linc you receive. For what ever reason the specs for the unit are pretty sparse and indicates only 600 watts incandescent and 15 amp *all other* loads. Normally this would not bother me for most hardware devices but Smartlabs hasn't been known to get a product right the first go round. The On-Off Module does however clearly indicate the rating for various loads: - General Appliances: 15 amps - Resistive: 15 amps - Incandescent: 1800 watts - Motors: 1 HP I realize its a wall wart and negates the whole purpose of a clean install. But, if your going to use them and they are going to blow why go through the headache?

That is certainly a good method to use for single device. But if more than one has been added that way - mistakes could happen unless the person is totally on the ball and tracks the Insteon ID's. I've always just named the new device similar to the old but use numeric values at the end. I do this to help me track replacements so there is no guessing 1-5 years from now what area was done because of an upgrade vs product failure.

Just to add to Stu's information unless there is a very specific reason for a On/Off Relay Switch. You should purchase a dimmer style as it allows so many options in terms of scene (mood) lighting. It goes with out saying it also directly translates to energy savings in your home. Matched to proven and quality LED lights your home can have all the benefits of ambient to task lighting when and if required. All the while saving energy and reduction in monthly electrical costs.

Good catch LeeG - I wrote that backwards ha . . .

Did you make both a controller when adding them to the scene? If not you need to so it indicates the correct state / status.

Also best practice is to make an immediate back up once the new device is in place. Create a read me text document with the back up file which should remind you this back up includes the new device(s). Memory is short 6-12 months from now and when the uneatable 2413S PLM failure approaches you won't understand why the system keeps crying it can't find said hardware device. Because it doesn't exist . . .

1. Add the new switch and name it something different: Kitchen New vs Kitchen 2. Go to the device tree and select the old switch and right mouse click and select replace with a list of devices will appear. You will of course select Kitchen New or what ever its named. 3. The system will begin the replacement process and once done the Admin Console will close. Log back into the Admin Console, you will notice the old switch is now gone and is replaced with Kitchen New. Rinse and repeat this process . . . NOTE: You must *Initially* name the new device something different. Failure to do so will confuse the system and it will corrupt any links / programming you had in place. Once the replacement process is complete you can change the device name to the original.