ScottAvery

I'm very happy to find this thread. I use fast on and fast off as triggers in a number of places, but this method seems more natural, particularly for bathroom lights at night. This makes more sense than rewriting the scene on levels every night/morning.

CyberMonday will probably be 22%.

Thanks, I had never heard of any such offering. I did indeed order from Best Buy, everyone else was still selling the 99i at the time.

Come on, I gave efficient as an option!

Further, since you are away from home and probably don't have all of your tools, when you look in the ceiling box it is most likely you will see a white and black connected with a wire nut, a loose white connected to the fan neutral, and a loose black connected to the fan's line/power. The white in the connected pair will be the one going to the switch, the loose black coming back from the switch, the loose white is the neutral returning to your panel, and the black in the connected pair is incoming power coming from the panel. Take a look and see how close this guess is. This is standard practice among lazy/cheap/efficient (your choice) electricians wiring the shortest possible runs, and is why we end up without neutral at some switches. edit: it is also possible that there be even more wires in there if the electrician wired more outlets through this nexus. If so, it will still be the odd white connected to black bundle that needs to be adjusted. All blacks together. All whites together. All done. See Post #2!

Save yourself the mental anguish and just take down that fan mount. As the other posters have pointed out, there are most assuredly more wires hidden behind it. Only the required two wires would be pulled out to connect to the fan. The other connections were probably neatly wound around the handle of a screwdriver to make a small coil and pushed into the covered box before the mount was screwed in place. You will find a collection of wires that won't quite match Xathros' drawing above, because they are currently in a switch loop. There will be a white connected to black. You will succeed by rewiring per that drawing in post # 2.

My modules listing has a Best Buy Portal Integration entry that I have always wondered about but never found a description. Having just seen a screenshot of someone else' modules listing, curiosity has piqued. What is it? Thanks!

This is the reason I use Apple Remote instead of Apple Music when selecting what to play. It streams it from the iTunes server directly to the end point rather than from the handheld device. That way everything can be hardwired.

Yay! Does that mean it is ready to publish or are we waiting for another approval cycle from Amazon? Any estimate on when the portal will be released in non-Beta form?

You say you used insteon linking. Does that literally mean you did the button press method to create scenes? If so, the PLM won't know when those scenes change so the ISY can't respond. You would have to readd all of the devices to the ISY while keeping the existing scenes, and that looks a little ugly with the default names generated. Best practice would be to factory reset and add them back blank, then rebuild the scenes through the ISY interface.

And another thought, Manowell, are you sure you are setting the remotelinc to the programming mode each time you update the scenes? It could be out of synch with what you expect if you have not been doing so. There would be green programming icons next to the remotelinc in the ISY console if you have not.

Stu, that's embarrassing. Speaker wiring on the brain I guess. At least it was only the wrong word choice. Manowell, It just clicked for me that part of your confusion may be thinking of the button on the face of the dimmer and the dimmer itself as the same, when it is a little more complicated than that. True, that button is the dedicated controller, with the same Insteon address, but logically the dimmer and the button can perform differently in multiple scenes. When you refer to the dimmer as a controller, you are talking about the action of the button, and as stated, the button can only do one thing directly, hence the limitation of being a member of only one scene as controller. When you refer to it as a responder, you are talking about the dimmer output to the load, independent of what the button does in any other scene. This may or may not help: It may make more sense to think of a lamp module that has controller buttons on it. With lamp modules you may more naturally think of the dimming feature as an action that you would normally control from other devices through scenes, but the device does in fact have dedicated control buttons on it that function just like a switchlinc dimmer. You can set the local on levels and ramp rates or scene membership for the lamplinc buttons totally differently than the other scenes that control it.

I really think UDI is missing out on a branding opportunity here. My Home sounds unnatural to me. Maybe Cortana can do the specialty requests... "Aziz! Light!"

This scares me a little. Do you have devices on the load side of another device? All the devices should be wired in series, black to black to black, white to white to white... The red only connects to the fixture/bulb. The behavior is correct and as we would expect. You can only control one scene directly with a button (unless you create programs) and that is going to be the "On" Scene. You could create an Off scene if you like, but it could only be used by a program or other unused button on another device. Your hard buttons, the switches themselves, would be controllers of the On scene, and pushing off on those switches will in fact turn them off. All scenes can be turned off without any special coding. On levels and ramp rates can be set for the On scene, and customized for each controller in the scene, and the ramp rate set for the On command gets used when the given controller signals off. This is an annoying element of the design of the Insteon protocol where there is no distinction between a preset scene and a device grouping. A "scene" is both.

Forgive my vanity, but I will quote myself to renew the campaign for "Izzy" as the preferred name: "Come on, it's snazzy! It feels like the geeky ISY will be coming out as a debutante at the cotillion by just taking off her eyeglasses! A whole new persona for the great, open consumer market. Siri and Alexa are all talk; Izzy gets it done." (or, "Izzy goes all the way!")

It sounds like you used Insteon button presses to set the pairing originally. And now you have created one or more new scenes through the ISY interface. Are you are saying that eventually the device fails to respond even to local button presses? I am sure Lee could better speak to that issue than I. I believe the generally accepted advice is to factory reset all devices before adding to ISY, and to then add them to the ISY using the remove all links command for good measure, then build all scenes through the ISY. That is the only way for the ISY to be aware of the state of the scene as the PLM is a hidden member of every scene thus created. No telling what conflicts you may have otherwise. You can compare the device links table to the ISY links table to see what the differences are now.

Have we figured out how to insert a variable in wait? I am away from my system and won't be able to test this anytime soon, but my approach to trim this down would be one program that executes at 4:30pm that sets a single state variable to the difference between sunset and 6:30 pm (sunset minus value for 6:30). second program reacts to the once daily change of the state variable to execute if state variable is greater than zero, wait that amount of time and turn on the light, else turn it on immediately. if we can't use a variable in wait then I guess it would take more work. I never switched over from state machine approach so dunno how the variables actually work!

Agree with Paul. That you are using inline lincs at all suggests that circuit probably continues from those lights to some other loads, and that last unit in your foursome may be closest to the noise.

That Intermatic is probably fine, though they offer more complete systems that have a full breaker box and independent relays for not much more money. I chose Pentair because my other stuff was Pentair. As for preferring to use insteon plug ins, remember you will need a weather safe place to plug them in and that they are not very durable. The 220V insteon relays have poor reputations. Also note that relays controlling high amperage motors tend to burn out/seize, which is the advantage of having a controller with independent, replaceable relays, making it a $10 repair instead of $375. I have had 1 seize in 4 years. You also have county code to deal with, almost assuredly needing a shutoff at the pump, so you would at least need a switch there.

The thread was archived so I had a bear of a time finding it. It was this discussion that led me to choose my equipment: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/5970-how-to-pentair-easytouchintellitouch-poolspa-controller/

This could all be done with a hodgepodge of modules, but then you have a box of widgets at your pool equipment instead of a standard controller that anyone, including the next owner of your home, can use with or without your ISY. I went with a Pentair Easy Ttouch (and added intellichlor while I was at it)and there are instructions somewhere on this site for how to connect it to the ISY with a Global Cache or similar RS-232 to IP tool that you can then manage through the network module. I have not taken the time to connect mine yet, but will someday get around to it. The Easy Touch was cheaper than the Pentair Intelli-branded ones, and with the combination of capabilities from ISY you could achieve pretty much anything, but still leave a reliable controller if you yanked your automation out. edit: looks like the protocol is rs485 so you need either a 232 <-> 485 converter or a non-Global Cache Ethernet to 485 device. Several choices on Amazon, including wifi.

Planning a renovation that will give the opportunity to expand and improve on some home automation capabilities. I'm curious about the ELK and Russound installations you guys have. We have a monitored security system installed that the previous owner signed up for, but the equipment is poor and I would rather have control of my own, but I don't know much about the ELK other than many have integrated it with ISY. I would have the opportunity to run hardwired motion sensor lines back to a central closet during the remodel, but I don't know what equipment is necessary/worth considering. ELK's preconfigured packages seem to be designed for using the ELK as the brain rather than an ISY, so I should think I would need to be more selective. I currently have no structured wiring for audio distribution, nor a really strong need, but there is enough interest that I want to consider it while the walls will be open. What little I use now is streaming from an always on iTunes server to airport express/appleTVs using apple Remote. I like the features and integration of SONOS but find the hardware a little silly/overpriced and seems to be more piecemeal vs. integrated. Russound doesn't seem any cheaper but looks a lot more flexible, provided I can wire for it. Which Russound devices are you integrating with apple devices? the pro level devices look like they wouldn't need any outside help, but the 88x was $3500 at retail, and would still need speakers, controllers and a ton of wiring. Are you DIYing something with the ISY network module and less advanced Russound components? If there are better forums to go to for this, please point me that way. Thanks!

"Gets it done" being just a little safer than "goes all the way"

Is the problem with "Izzy" that Echo won't understand, or that it won't be available? I have offered Bob, and would add to that George (love him, and pet him, and squeeze him), or Isabel, or maybe (maybe) "Icey", but Izzy just feels right. Come on, it's snazzy! It feels like the geeky ISY will be coming out as a debutante at the cotillion by just taking off her eyeglasses! A whole new persona for the great, open consumer market. Siri and Alexa are all talk; Izzy gets it done.

Did you switch to CFLs in any of those lights on the circuit?