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lilyoyo1

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Everything posted by lilyoyo1

  1. Create a scene withe the devices as responders and configure them with your desired levels. Write a program that turns that scene on if you double tap the switch. Or you could write a program the turns on the individual devices to their desired level based on a double tap Your screenshot adjusts the scenes for manual control. You can set a scene that turns lights on at 100% during the day when the controller is physically pressed and then late at night have the responders go to a different on level when the controller is physically pressed.
  2. lilyoyo1

    zwave

    You don't have the zwave module which is why you don't see anything for it otherwise it would give you that option. Here's the info on ordering and setup https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Z-Wave:_Ordering/Assembly_Instructions
  3. You won't use paypal? If that's the case, you'll probably have a hard time selling them as most will want some sort of buyers protection with a complete stranger. The few people who has sold things on here will generally post in the Coffee Shop sub-forum
  4. Zwave is self healing. I do hope they bring it back as I think it's better to force a heal vs waiting for the system to do it
  5. Does your UI match the firmware? What modules are you having problems with? Did you try factory resetting them? What's your total node count?
  6. I don't know if it's possible. However, a simple controlled outlet would allow you to do reboot it
  7. A system is only as strong (minus hardware issues) as the programmer. Lutron and C4 are rock solid but in the wrong hands can be terrible. If all you are looking for is lighting, Lutron is the way to go. If you want to integrate, the C4 would be better suited. With that said, C4 would definitely be outside of your willing price range (according to what you said earlier). I'm not a huge fan of mixing systems (which is why I prefer C4). I try to do things within 1 ecosystem. Lessens the chance of something going wrong and minimizes troubleshooting. Minor stuff is 1 thing such as sonos but primary no. For example, with Lutron, you would have Lutron, then the nodeserver, Polisy, and finally the isy (until integrated with Polisy). If your lights don't turn on, you have to look at multiple things.
  8. In addition to what was already said, you should expect to pay around 3-4x (minimum) as much for a Lutron radioRa2 switch as you would a single insteon dimmer switch (when purchased from a reputable source). Keypads even more. You are getting an extremely reliable system....just comes with a cost. There's a reason why insteon and zwave devices are so cheap (relatively speaking)..... You get what you pay for. Yes, by making RadioRa2 installer based, they are losing customers. At the same time, most people don't know what they are doing so they end up with issues. This shows with insteon and zwave. While they aren't perfect by any stretch, most issues (outside devices not working) are due to user error. They are willing to lose sales to regular consumers (even if you're buying 100 devices to ensure (or at least increase the chances of) things are done right. They are more worried about their reputation than a sale. A bad install means an unhappy customer. An unhappy customer complains all over the internet giving them a bad name. This is greatly amplified the pricier something is. Don't equate taking the training with any discounted pricing. It just unlocks the software for you. You'll still need to purchase from somewhere else such as another dealer, Volutone, or SnapAV. Those companies offer dealer discounts if you qualify but generally you need to be part of the industry for that. In regards to zwave sensors to insteon switches, there will be a delay since there are no direct device links. However, I've found the delay to be 1 second or less. On some occasions, I've waited 2 seconds. Could it be faster...yes, but overall, I'm satisfied and I haven't heard any complaints from anyone
  9. Nice try...but we know you can't argue about the looks. Lol. It's not that lutron looks bad. Just very plain for what they cost. Lutron is solid though. You can never go wrong with using it.
  10. What @simplextechsaid. If Lutron isn't the route to go for you, then I would suggest a combination of insteon and zwave. Insteon is much better for lighting than zwave. Zwave is better IMO on the sensor front. Personally I prefer C4 over lutron (devices look better) but I wouldn't need to pay for programming so I understand why it's a non starter for you. With all things being equal, I think reliability is about the same for insteon and zwave. However, since zwave is tied to the controller in order to operate, you have more things that can go wrong. That's also a built in speed bump that you don't necessarily have with insteon.
  11. He's using the on in non toggle-on and off in non toggle-off so the lights will stay on/off which is wrong to do from the start as that will override his programming. He needs to delete the device, factory reset it back to 6 button and re-add it to the isy. At that point link the lamp module to the main button and it will work as desired. He's complicated a normal task
  12. Why did you do that if you're just going to use it as a 6 button anyway? Just because it's not attached to a load doesn't mean it can't be linked to something. Just set the kpl back to default and link it to whatever lights you want
  13. I posted on here for others to know in addition to UDI so that others are aware should they have the same issue. It's not just for UDI to know. I still submitted a ticket as well.
  14. @Michel Kohanim I found another potential bug with Yale locks. In 5.0.16 and prior, Keypad lock was a separate command from manually locking (from the inside thumb-turn. Now the only command for locking is manual regardless of whether its from the thumb-turn or from the keypad.
  15. I used to use sommer garage door openers. Quiet as hell and worked really well. But they open and close slow as words I can't use here. I'm not a fan of MyQ but with the nodeserver it works well at the basic level. I do use an external sensor so that I can get local status vs relying on the cloud. Outside of that, the few times I need to use the actual close works out really well
  16. There is no set design or plan as everyone has their own method of doing things. There really is not right or wrong way to do something. Your light switches are in set places so there really isn't any designing to it. What you need is planning and only you can do that. People on here can give you ideas but nothing beats pepper planning on your end. What you can do is sit down and plan your system. Put pen to paper (so to speak) and look at the flow of your home and your lifestyle. In my house, each room has a kpl (along with the other switches) that we use for our mood scenes. This sets the room for what we want outside of the default programming. Everything else happens automatically. For example, we use our lamps mostly in the living room. By default, as it starts to get dark, those will turn on at a low level and gradually brighten as it gets dark. The letter it gets the lights will dim down the closet it gets to bedtime. We can hit a button on the kpl, if we want to relax, watch a movie, we're entertaining, simply want extra lights, etc. Same with the kitchen. When no one is in there, accent lights will come on when it gets dark. Walking in will turn on the can lights. Hitting the meal prep button will turn on the lights we want for cooking, dinner button will set the area up to eat etc. By planning, you can get the devices you want correct from the start vs buying and installing, then wishing you had done differently later. The same with installation. Here's your chance to move switches around so the light you use most is first It's easy to want to jump in and start programming. Plan what you want from by room. Start with the least used room as your practice room. Let this be where you learn to program and put ideas to work. As you become proficient, you can branch out to other rooms and start programming then add well. The good thing is that devices will still work without programming until you get to them. Just remember, it's not a race to finish this. Rome wasn't built in a day nor will your system be done in that time. I'm always changing our adding stuff and so will you. The most important piece is to start with a strong foundation
  17. That's the nature of zwave unfortunately. I've seen this issue with other controllers
  18. The smartswitch 6 works as well
  19. When devices are together as controllers they are also responders so you don't need separate scenes for it
  20. I never use them for yale but I looked at mi e and it's missing too
  21. I agree with ELA. That's extremely fast...Waaaaay to fast for it to be doing anything
  22. No. 2 separate and incompatible systems. You could get the insteon ID from your admin console to add your devices to the hub. However, you would not be able to factory reset it. In this case, I would write down the id, unlink it from whatever scenes it is part of, and delete it from the Isy PRIOR to adding it to the hub. The same would need to be done for any other embedded devices. The rest, you would manually factory reset prior to adding to the hub.
  23. All over the forums (including the 5.3 page) and wiki. The same as migrating using the same controller. Back up zwave (if you have zwave), backup isy, restore zwave, verify programs
  24. The problem with forums is that so many people comment on different things, issues can get lost in the process. UDI can't read every post to find whats what (though they chime in regularly). A ticket is the best way to get a bug fixed long term.
  25. Did you clear your Java cache
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