MaddBomber83

Have you attempted a check for proper values and limits for your variables? Adding a notification on top of that may help you track it down. A couple routes for this. The easy way, since you said redoing the Init fixes it, is to move your display to State 3 and have State 2 be a logic check. If State 2 is passed an illogical value for the Gallons then it runs the (Then Path) for the WaterLvlInit; otherwise it raises the state to 3, and state 3 runs your display. For this logic check, I would add an automatic way out (such as a counter) so that you don't get into an endless loop. With running all those programs at the exact same time using a state change, I wonder if memory is messing something up. You could add a logical check as part of each voltage check that the $WtrGallons is at the proper value (maybe <= Max Range) so that nothing gets duplicated. You could spread out the execution of the code by adding 8 states (one for each folder) and have a wait timer built in. Some random thoughts before bed.

A similar thing happend to me and it was because we added a bunch of computer power items in our computer room. Temporary fix was to move the PLM out of that room. Longer term fix was to add filters and APs to increase the robustness of the network.

Nice! I'll have to play around with that Wiki link. For those interested, I have the Alpha version of the guide up: [Guide] Setting Up OWLink with Raspberry PI and ISY It is essentially a go here, download that, copy and paste this. Still under construction but far enough that I won't be too embarrassed by it.

I would be interested in knowing as well. I've tried a few of the alerts but no settings available.

I did forget, you'll need an RJ11 to RJ45 cable to connect the Bus to the first Cluster (possibly a RJ45 Union if the Cluster is far away). The Sheepwalk Electronics has these cables, and the wiring diagrams if you were to make your own.

For a house, it is unlikely that you will run into any issues. You'll only need to wire up 2 wires. You may use any cable that you want. You may connect them with splitters in any configuration that you want. You likely won't need to worry about any length issues. But, never assume over the internet! What these clusters do is provide a slight resistance to the network to enhance the stability. 2m is the recommended, however you can often get away with > 50 foot runs from the sensor to the cluster. I am running a 50 foot run between clusters without issue. You can get away with 150 feet without too much worry. You can connect things however you want if the total weight of your network is <600 feet. Anything over this distance (and the values I use are conservative) you will need to arrange the network in a more advanced way, possibly with additional devices to supplement power and provide switching. Now for most house setups you are looking at a max of 300 feet, and are thus not limited really on the number of detectors you can have. Take that 600 feet and subtract 3 feet for every detector. Also subtract the distance of the wires. I'll give the below example for my network: My Bus is located in my Attic next to my HVAC Unit. - 25 Feet to a Cluster at the front of my house that has 4 temperature Probes on 6 foot wires - 50 Feet to a Cluster at the back of my house that has 4 temperature Probes on 3 Foot wires - 10 Feet to a Cluster at the Bus connected to 4 temperature probes on 10 foot wires - Each Cluster has a temperature probe on it. Runs between clusters (85) = 25 + 50 + 10 Runs from Cluster to Probe (76) = (4x6) + (4x3) + (4x10) Temperature Probes (45) = 15 x 3 House Weight is 206 feet. So I have a lot of room for expansion. The second consideration is Network Radius. Essentially this is the largest distance a signal has to be transferred to. So from the Bus, to the farthest detector. If you keep this less than 600 feet then you can do whatever you like. Anything over and you'll find yourself looking at more advanced configurations. In the above example, the longest run is from the Bus to the cluster 50 feet away, to the probe 3 feet away. 53 feet is well within 600. Why these limitations? Essentially you can think of the 1 wire bus as Morse Code. Each detector taps out a series of high/lows in a wave form to say I'm the detector in the attic. It then does a similar thing to say I'm at 75.216 Degrees F. The Network Weight is limited because the entire bus must go from a high voltage to no voltage. The more bus you have, the harder/longer that takes. The Network Radius is limited because it takes time for that farthest detector to send its wave over a long wire. If it takes too long then the bus will ignore it. Lets talk wiring options. The one wire bus is 3 wires. Ground to supply a return power path. Power to supply a supply power path. Data to supply the data communication (and since the data is all on one wire, this is where the 1 wire comes from). Two power options. Parasitic Power gets its power from the Data Line as well. External Power gets its power from the Power Line. Most people, especially in homes, are going to use Parasitic Power. If you are going over that 600 feet, you may need to explore External Power. The 1 wire bus that I use supplies both power over Data and Power over Power. In this way I can use either type of device, but I only use parasitic. So, a 1 wire temperature detector has 3 pins, in your Parasitic Power the Power and Ground pins are connected to form 1 connection, and then you have the Data Pin. You could simply plug these pins into an RJ45 Connector. The bus I use, you would connect the Power/Ground to Pin 5 (normally the Blue/White one in Cat 5); and the Data Pin to Pin 4 (Normally the Blue Pin). Then the other end of the Cat 5 cable you can connect to your cluster. From the cluster you would just connect up Cat 5 cable to the other clusters (and can split them out). One of the Cat 5 cables will go to the Bus Master. Now the probes I use actually just have the Data Pin soldered to the Blue Wire, and the Power/Ground pins soldered to the Blue/White Wire, with a shrink wrap. The other end I plug up as described. The rest of the network is just RJ45 Cat5 plugs. You could use phone wire, or any 2 wire strands to connect up instead. With you starting with 1 Node and 3 Clusters, the next question is how many probes at each cluster you would like. A rough shopping list so far is (I'll need to know the number of probes to complete): - ($39.95) Raspberry PI Model B 512MB Ram (You can save $10 on Model A, but I like Model B better as it gives a bit more headroom to do other things with it). - (You are using a Wired Network so this is Optional) ($19.95) USB WiFi (B/G/N) with Antenna (You can save $8 for the one without an antenna but I like the added range as mine is in the attic) - ($7.95) A 4gb SD Card - ($5.95) Micro USB Power Supply - ($3.95) USB Cable - Note, you can do much better on prices if you search around. Temporary Items: - HDMI Cable to connect up a display - USB Mouse - USB Keyboard - If also using WIFI a USB Hub 1-Wire Items: - (13.95# or $22.60) RPI2 Host Adapter (You can save 5#s by buying the kit instead) - (12.95# or $20.98) SWE2 Clusters x3 (You can save 2#s by buying the kit instead) - (5.95# or $9.64) Pre Wired Temperature Probes. Since you are wiring your own, a pack of 10 chips for you to sodder up to wires is 14.95# - Note, with the 3 clusters you'll have ~12 probe slots available depending on how you wire it up (can be up to 18 if you were using the screw wires). - (29.95#s or $48.55) Humidity Sensor (Can save 5#s by buying the kit instead). Look over the list, ask questions if any, lay out your plans in more detail (where the probes will go, how they will be connected, lengths needed.

MadCodger; The same would apply to you. I have thoughts on getting a proper thread together that goes into more detail, but I would like to get more of my install done first so I can give pictures and such. Describe what you would like to do. I'll ask a few more questions and then give a 'things to buy' list. You'll essentially download a pre-made image file and load that onto an SD card. The Raspberry PI should boot up and be running the OWLink Server and the OWFS for the Temps/Humidity. You'll use a web browser to connect to the OWLink Server and tell it where your ISY is. You'll create your new temps / humidity variables in ISY and then reboot the Raspberry PI. Then in that web browser you'll be able to link the Temps / Humidity to Raspberry PI variables (I had my daughter running around the house and putting her hand on the temp probes). At this point everything is set up without you doing programming. Now we move into the ISY. You would let us know what variables you named, and what you would like to accomplish. We could tell you how to program them and / or load up some programs for you to try out. It would take a bit of tweaking until you are satisfied with your system. So, as mentioned, next step is to describe what you would like to do.

So next step for you then. How many 'nodes' will you need. A node is where all the wires connect up together. An example may be that you have one in the attic and one under the house. This will determine how many controllers you will need. You could do the full thing with 1 node (1 raspberry PI) if all the wires can connect to each other. Otherwise you can split out into two controllers, as an example a WiFi connected one if you don't want to run wires between your sensors in the attic and your router in the office. The second part is how many 'clusters' you have. A cluster is where all the probes plug in so that each prob is not longer than 6 meters from a cluster. An example is I have 1 cluster for the rooms at the back of my house and 1 cluster for the rooms at the front of my house.

Did you get any data on what the battery life would be? For $80 the Insteon Wireless one would be a better choice for 1 or 2 readings. At 3 or more it seems the 1 wire becomes a cost advantage. I know it says 2 limit, but I'm assuming you can have more with ISY?

I should add that IO guy has an ISY Variable Data Logger that is useful for temperatures. Essentially, you run it from any computer and it connects to your ISY and logs in a CSV (Excel can Read this) all the Variables you specify at a frequency you specify. From there you can create charts and such to review the data. I'm using this to tweak some of my HVAC settings (like what DT to turn the fan on, and for tuning damper positions so all the rooms change temperature at about the same rate).

If max90034 is ok with it, you could just continue posting in this thread. Really, the first step is to give a good describe of your situation and what you would like to do. From there we can come up with the Hardware and the Programs you would need to accomplish that. As for paying someone to help.... The most difficult part of the system from a software perspective was getting the Raspberry PI set up with the File Server and Probes. Then getting it all to start up automatically. As this was the most difficult part, it is likely I could package up the image for the Raspberry PI. In this way you would buy all the parts yourself, and then I would send you the files to load onto the PI's SD card. Then some quick steps to set up the PI / ISY Variables / Connect 1 Wire to those Variables. After that it is all ISY programming. And there is lots of help on the forums for that. I can also give you some example programs and the community can help with your specific situation. You would be paying for all the hardware. The software from me would be free. Support on these forums is always free. - The only software expense I would suggest is sending a Donation to IOGuy for creating the OWLink server. - Wait until you have everything up and running and you like it. Then shoot him a donation as a thank you for his work. The 1 wire probes are all physically wired up to a controller connected to the Raspberry PI. - They can use any wires, but the most common is Cat 5 cable. This is cheap and easy to connect (you just plug them all into each other). The Raspberry PI can then be connected to your home network over WiFi. The Raspberry PI will need to have a One Wire File System running on it to get all the Temperatures/Humidity from the One Wire Controller. The Raspberry PI will be running IO Guy's OWLink that will update the variables you set in the ISY with the Temperatures/Humidity from the One Wire File system. From there it is ISY programming. I have several programs currently taking advantage of the temperature information. There are some 'work a rounds' in place as the ISY has limited support for interaction between modules/devices and variables. The next update is supposed to expand on this support. The main thing that I use the temperatures for is turning on the fan if they differ to much around the house. So if our front room is > 1 degree F different from the back room, the fan kicks on until they are equalized. I'm now in the process of changing out a bunch of HVAC equipment where I'll have a zoned system. Here the probes will start opening and shutting dampers based on temperature. They'll also control bringing in fresh air through a fresh air supply line. The attic fan I'm installing will also be controlled by the temperature probes. A neat thing will be hooking HVAC into the Garage. The Garage will actually get most of its cooling through the Attic Fan. If we are going to be in the Garage all day I'll have a normally shut Damper open up and start controlling the Garage Temperature with the Central Air System. Last I'll wire up humidity detectors for the bathroom fans. I have notifications set up to let me know if the temperature in any room gets messed up. I also have a daily email that tells me how long the Fan, Cooling, Heating and Off were active along with the Min / Max temperatures for each room and outside. Notifications are also generated if there are errors in the system.

A bit more details, I will use my AC unit as an example. I drilled a small hole (1/4") into both the supply and return side of my unit. Then the probe is placed inside and sealed. Depending on your fridge, you may be able to bring the probe in through the water connection and then seal that. Look up on brewing web sites for the process of drilling a hole and sealing it. A lot of beer makers will modify their fridges to have lines coming in and out of it. Once the probes were in place I connected them to a hub. That Hub is connected to a 1 wire bus master. http://www.sheepwalkelectronics.co.uk/index.shtml is where I got most of my items. Bus Master is on a Raspberry PI. If going this route, for initial setup, you are looking at ~40 Pounds for the 1 wire stuff. This will get you a room temperature and a probe temperature. For the Raspberry PI - 12 bucks for a small USB wireless Dongle - You'll need an SD card - Anything with USB power Micro USB, like an old phone charger. - $30 for the PI Model A The setup can be complete for ~$100. Adding additional sensors are much cheaper. My entire setup with ~ 20 probes ran be around $200-$300.

Well, how much do you want to spend? I am using a 1 wire bus to send about 20 temperatures to my isy over a wifi connection. IO Guy has a sub forum here for the Automation Shack. You would have two options. The preffered is a wired, wireless setup (what I have). - Place a 1 wire probe into the area you want to monitor (they make them for a few bucks). - Connect this probe to your 1 wire bus. - This is connected to a Raspberry PI. - The Raspberry PI is on your WiFi Network. - The Raspberry PI would need a plug or usb port for power. Using the OWLink Software from IO Guy, you can read all these temperatures into ISY as Variables or States. From there do what you like. True Wireless is a bit harder as you have to power a WiFi connection. This is not as easy on a battery that you are not charging every day. But this can still be done, possibly with the full temperature probe being wireless as well. Check out this Blogfrom a guy who hooked up the 1 wire sensor into a tin box with a battery, radio transmitter and some micro controllers. In the end, all this data is sent to a Raspberry PI like device at a remote location. In my 1 wire bus setup, I am using the temperatures to control cooling setpoints and fans. I'm in the process of changing out my HVAC and when complete they will also control HVAC Zones. All of this computing is up in my attic, and connected by WiFi to my home network / Isy.

Hello; I am looking to make the initial plunge into the ISY world and had a few quick questions. First, I would like compatibility with the most devices, and this seems to be the right product. From reading around this PRO/IR unit with the PLM should be the right choice as it is not Zigbee and would be able to have the Z-Wave addon enabled. My second question is related to getting a large amount of temperature data into the ISY for the lowest cost. The first project I will be undertaking is HVAC heavy and I would like to start off with a bunch of temperature inputs (around 12 temperatures assuming I use the WeatherBug for outside information). From the reading around on the forum, it seems that a RaspberryPI with a one wire control will be the preferred way to go about this. Anyone have links to guides that would detail things a bit more than the mentioned thread?