jgorm

This is awesome info! I've been looking for a way to activate a IF statement on a program from another program for situations like this where the disabled program would run when it's not supposed to. thanks!

You might be able to adapt something like this. http://www.vhipe.com/product-private/SuperPID.htm For this kind of control, and with any type of user PID settings required, you are going to need a real PLC and frequency controller. You can get stuff cheap on ebay. I sold a number of old allen bradley PLCs for ~$30. Frequency controllers are more expensive, but you should be able to get one for about $100. The software is more difficult to get, but there are some more DIY friendly PLCs. I was going to use a PLC for HVAC and fan control based on temps, but I have it almost working with the ISY and it's way way easier!

I'm trying to see what the light colors / blinks should be on a 4 tap test. The directions say "If it is blinking red/green, solid red, or solid green, your access points are on the same electrical phase.... try moving it". I can get it to blink red, blink green, and go solid green depending on where I plug it in. I'm using the plm to send out the 4 tap test and some switches blink red, and most blink green. It blinks red when I plug it into the same outlet as the plm.

That's why I run 2 networks in my house. One behind a double nat /spi router and one in the front for my Rokus, cameras, phone, ISY, etc. The other is for my computers, NAS, etc. If you get into my front network, you wont see the computers on the other net because all the ports are stealth. I just came across this article that says that 443 is the 2nd most attacked port. http://news.cnet.com/8301-1009_3-576077 ... op-target/ You can use this site to see what ports you have open. https://www.grc.com/x/ne.dll?bh0bkyd2 Normally I prefer to use obscure ports for stuff that needs an open port to the net. Always avoid typical trojan ports!

I'm new and have 2 questions. 1. what is a 4 tap test? 2. why bother with access points for $40 when you can buy another dual band switch, or outdoor plug for $50. shouldn't they do the same thing?

I dont know that much about hacking, but having port 443 (SSL) open to the internet doesn't seem like the best idea.

400 results on ebay for DS18B20+Waterproof http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

I've been clogging up another thread http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12336 There is the info that got me started. maddbomber83 deserves the credit. I don't know what i'm doing other than following his directions. The parts I have on order are as follows. Raspberry PI $42 off http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SQQF9C/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Parts from Sheepwalk electronics w/ international shipping to US $64 RPI2 http://www.sheepwalkelectronics.co.uk/RPI2.shtml SWE2 http://www.sheepwalkelectronics.co.uk/SWE2.shtml RJ11-RJ45 cable (2m) http://www.sheepwalkelectronics.co.uk/products-cables.shtml Parts from Ebay 5PCS DS18B20 Waterproof Digital Thermal Probe or Sensor DS18B20 $11.02 shipped 10PC DS18B20 18B20 Thermometer Temperature Sensor Dallas $10.18 shipped Total cost so far is $127 I have lots of cables, usb power, ethernet wire and connects, etc so you might need some of that, but most people doing this probably have tons of electronic crap around their house.

I'll simplify to get started. Will this work? Comes out to about $100 1 of these RPI2 Host Adapter Item no. RPI2 Please Select:: Assembled 2 of these SWE2 sensor connection module Item no. SWE2 Please Select: Assembled 1 10 pack DS18B20 temperature sensor TO-92 Item no. DS18B20pk10 Quantity:: Pack of ten 1 of these RJ11 to RJ45 cable Item no. RJ11RJ452m Length: 2m And then the international shipping for 7# I can get this for $42 shipped with my amazon prime http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Mode ... spberry+pi I already have the other cables, usb power If this will work, I'll put in the order.

I'll probably start out small and grow the system once I see how well it works. I would start with one node and probably 3 clusters. Is there a limit on wire length between the clusters? Does the cluster need power? Could I use cat6 and RJ45 3 way splitters to connect everything? I figured I could solder cat6 onto the sensors and stick a plug on the end to simplify connections to the main bus line. I'm pretty fast at adding the connectors to cat6. Thanks for all of your help! This is something that I've been looking into for a long time and previously I thought the only way to do with was with a PLC and HMI, but that is a daunting task! This seems much more manageable!

My goal is to have multiple temp sensors, around my house, under my house, in my attic, around the outside of my house, in my server closet, etc. Hopefully i'll end up with ~20 sensors. I might use some electric dampers on my HVAC system to better control air flow to where it is needed most. I will use wired ethernet. It looks like I need the Raspberry, maybe like this one? http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Mode ... B009SQQF9C Then the one wire controller looks like I need a DS2413P+ http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... us&lang=en Then these for the temp sensors. DS18B20+-ND http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/956983 Is this all I need?

Thanks LeeG! You have been a big help and thanks for taking the time to respond to my basic questions! So if I am following you correctly, there is no order to the IF statements. I assumed the first IF statement would have to run first, but it seems that they can trigger in any order and the program will then check the other and statements. Is that correct?

Does the else statement always run all the time, or does it only run if the "if' statement has an "and" statement and it is not true. For example If motion 1 is on and time between 6 and 7 The run -whatever Else - run whatever 2 If the motion is triggered, but the time is not between 6 and 7, will it run the else? Or does the Else run any time that the motion is off? I'm trying to see if I can cut down my programs using this technique.

How much would it cost me to have you or one of your friends setup something that I can just connect to my ISY and wire up my 1-wire sensors? I don't have time to learn programming and figuring everything out, but I've wanted something with some logic so I can use statements like If sensor one > sensor 2, turn fan on.

Thanks. I got it working with scenes. I know the programs wouldn't run without the ISY, but I was wondering if they ISY built the links into the devices, and I now understand that it does.

just buy a fish tank pH controller for < $100

Is there a good way to use the scene buttons, on the multiple button switches, as indicators for when certain programs are running, certain lights are on, etc? I am trying to make 2 switches in different rooms light up if my hot water pump is on. I set the programs to turn on the scene button, and it works sometimes, but then stops. If I set it to turn the backlight on, it turns the backlight on for the entire switch, not just the scene button. Is is possible to use these to turn on when programs are running? I have tried using a scene, but it didn't always work either. The other question I have is which option to select when you are adding new devices and it asks if you want to keep the links, remove all links, etc. Do I need links if everything runs off the ISY? Or does the ISY program the links and then the programs would run even if the ISY was unhooked?

doubt it. If your hydro system is big enough to need pH and TDS control from a dosing system, then using the ISY is the wrong tool.

I'm not sure how it's configured, but I think i set the timeout to be 0.5 seconds. I assumed incorrectly that once the then statement was triggered it would fully execute. How does this look? front door motion 1 trigger If Status 'Front door motion sensor 1' is On And From Sunset + 30 minutes To Sunrise - 30 minutes (next day) Then Run Program 'Front door motion 1 action' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Front door motion 1 action If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set 'Driveway house lights' On Set 'Front door light' Fast On Run Program 'Front door motion beeps' (Then Path) Wait 10 minutes Set 'Driveway house lights' Fast Off Wait 5 minutes Set 'Front door light' Fast Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Front door motion beeps If Status 'Front door motion sensor 2' is On Then Repeat 1 times Set 'Bar Lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Front door light' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway house lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway street lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'MB Heat Lamp' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Porch light inside.1' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Office fan' 1 (Beep Duration) Wait 5 seconds Set 'Driveway street lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Front door light' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway house lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Bar Lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Office fan' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'MB Heat Lamp' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Porch light inside.1' 1 (Beep Duration) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') What about using the outdoor plug module instead of an access point?

Hi, 1st post. I setup a 7 switch, 4 motion sensor insteon setup. It seems that one of my programs is not turning the lights off as it should. If Status 'Front door motion sensor 2' is On And From Sunset + 30 minutes To Sunrise - 30 minutes (next day) Then Set 'Driveway house lights' On Set 'Front door light' Fast On Set 'Front door light' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway house lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'MB Heat Lamp' 1 (Beep Duration) Wait 10 minutes Set 'Driveway house lights' Fast Off Wait 5 minutes Set 'Front door light' Fast Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I have 3 dual band switches, 2 on one side of my front door, and one on the other side. The motion sensor that is ~10' from the switch on the other side of the stucco wall works fine, but the one at the end of my garage doesn't work at all. It's maybe 30' from the front door, but slightly around the corner of the garage. I know that going through walls at an angle will kill the signal. I was thinking about adding a insteon access point to the garage. The garage has a appliance module, but I dont think those are dual band. The outdoor plug in module is dual band and is only $50 compared to the access point at $40 that doesn't provide any other functionality. Would these extend the range as well as the access point? I have a fountain that I could plug one into that is on the back side of my back yard and that should give me great coverage on that side of the house. I figure I could just plug one in the garage on the wall near the door and other motion sensors and just leave it unused, and maybe plug the christmas lights into it during that time of year. As a side note I did setup a cool program to beep all the switches in my house when someone walks up to the front door. The beep duration parameter doesn't make any difference. If Status 'Front door motion sensor 2' is On Then Repeat 1 times Set 'Bar Lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Front door light' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway house lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway street lights' 250 (Beep Duration) Set 'MB Heat Lamp' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Porch light inside.1' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Office fan' 1 (Beep Duration) Wait 5 seconds Set 'Driveway street lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Front door light' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Driveway house lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Bar Lights' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Office fan' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'MB Heat Lamp' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Porch light inside.1' 1 (Beep Duration) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')