Banichi

So I have a handful of ISYs that I manage and at some point I was able to make it so that the name that displays in the ISY launcher was a custom name. At this point I don't know if I figured out how to do that or if it was some happy accident. So I have 1 of several ISYs in my ISY finder that is easily identifiable. The rest I have to refer to the portal to find the UUID as a cross-reference. Does anyone know how I managed to change that one and or how to change it for others? I have tried changing the name of the top folder in the admin console from ISY to my desired name. I've made sure that in the UDI portal they have an alias and not just "ISY". I don't see a location in the admin console config page for such a field. I must be missing something. Nathan

Been using a green laser tape. It's a little difficult to work with but results are good. If masking tape had similar results then I would just use that. But it doesn't sound like it really does so I'll stick with what I've got. But I'll also check out that other thing you posted. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You use this instead of laser tape? No scarring? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I'm liking this concept. I think that I am going to invest in agave. I'm curious about thermostat control. Are you just able to talk to insteon tstats at the moment? Or do you have other non-insteon devices that you are able to control? I personally really like that you can rename devices on the app profile only btw. Helps keep the admin side functional while the UI side making sense to the end user. Back to tstats I'm also wondering what it would take to be able to create a macro like "device" in the UI for multiple tstats controlling a given zone. For example there is a house that has 10 heating zones and 4 cooling zones, (10 radiant floor zones and 4 hvac/AC zones) and I would like to be able to mux the 4 cooling zones with the 10 heating zones. So heat zones 1-3 overlap with cooling zone 1; heat zones 4-7 overlap with cooling zone 2; heat zone 8-9 overlap with cooling zone 3; heat zone 10 overlaps with cooling zone 4. So the corresponding cooling zone would respond via macro/ifttt type of action, (or whatever) based on the temp setting on the "device" in the UI. I think that I can accomplish what I want via nodeservers and programs but it would be nice if there were a tstat style of way to interact with that program. I dunno, thoughts?

The panels that they send cost a ridiculous amount of money. Though after thinking about it, it is likely related to their UL certification process and the associated costs. The entire BOM for the 5 zone panel is roughly $1500. But having the enclosure with a UL cert label on it makes it a lot easier to pass inspections. The SSR that you listed is almost the exact same as what is in the panel for this job. The units that shipped with our panel are RGC1P48V42ED at $168 each. Those units also have the soft start option. I'm guessing that the went with the 42 instead of the 30 to have a little room on the current spec. Regarding the residual voltage bleed on the qubino, you can do what @apostolakisl suggested with a resistor, (and a fan to cool it most likely). I'm thinking about either using a incandescent flashlight battery to bleed the voltage with the possible added benefit of an "off" indicator light if it actually illuminates. The only suggestion that I would make to your plan is that you do have some sort of breaker near by for emergency shutoff purposes. The panel that Infratech sells has the din rail mounted mini breakers. The ones that shipped with our unit are 2-pole 30A breakers from Schneider Electric at about another $160-ish.

Okay so update on this. I have the qubino flush dimmer that I mentioned. It works with 5.0.13C, (which is what my ISY shipped with) without any particular configuration necessary. The qubino has many on-device parameters that can be configured that I probably won't need. The "Multilevel Switch" aspect of the device controls the 0-10v output. I have attached the meter and it is pretty darn accurate for 10% = 1V. For example 30%=3.153V on the meter. So not super spot on but if your tolerances are +- 150mV then you should be able to use this for anything requiring 0-10V. Of note is that the 0% or OFF setting has a residual 160mV-ish. So I still may need that The only problem I forsee with this is range. They will be the only z-wave devices in this install so I'll have to get the ISY close enough to talk to them. This is the biggest downside to z-wave + insteon that I've found. Z-wave just doesn't have the range that insteon does due to no powerline coms/ no dual band. That said I did find a distributor that had 4 of the 2475DA2 units so I bought them all. I needed 8 so I may end up going with the qubino units so if someone really needs a insteon ballast dimmer then let me know. I may be willing to part with them.

Yes that device looks like it would work great! I just got one of the Z-wave devices that I mentioned in one of my earlier posts. The Qubino Flush DImmer 0-10v. I just had to use my ISY for a customer site since I got a ISY that was DOA. First time that has ever happened. So I need to get a new z-wave isy in so that I can test this bad boy out. I'd like to test out the triac dimmer unit that you posted as well. I'll update on the z-wave module when I get my new ISY.

Z-wave devices that have more than 1 function like the motion sensor that has a motion sensor, dusk/dawn sensor, and triggering are multi-channel devices. I know that some of them were problematic in the beginning of z wave implementation but I also know it was improving. So I guess we'll see. I just bought one to test out. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks for that Larry. I was thinking that I might have to build my own power supply if I had to go that route. However, I just thought about Z-wave and 0-10v solutions and I found this guy: http://qubino.com/products/flush-dimmer0-10v/ Don't know what support would be like in the ISY. It is multi-channel and I haven't done much at all with z-wave on the ISY yet. I really want to but just haven't had the time. How is multi-channel support coming along in 5.x.x?

This is not the same question as the other recently posted question that was talking about 0-10v LED control. What I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way using insteon or the ISY to send 0-10vdc outputs for controlling IR heating units. I think that I could have made the ballast dimmer work but it does seem as though it is discontinued. With that I would have used it as if I were controlling a regular dimmable ballast but just cap off the load wires and just used the 10vdc wires as the control mechanism. But without those I'm not quite sure how to accomplish this task. 0V is 0% on the heater and 10V is 100% on the heater. What would be ideal is if I had a way to use insteon directly to control that output, like a din rail dimmer to a variable, (unregulated?) power supply that has a max output of 10v

Okay so could the following work: If Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 1' > Off Or Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 2' > Off Or Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 3' > Off Then Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Wait 1 Second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Else Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 1 Second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off So the Else would not run because scene state does not exist. But if I use the state of the devices in the scene as the condition does that adequately function as a condition?

I've adjusted the repeat command and it works correctly. Now regarding the variable. Can I not save the scene's on/off state as a variable in 4.6.2? I don't necessarily need to precise level just on vs off and then pull that from the variable? Or could I not do a second program and have it setup like this: Program - "Driveway Motion" IF From Sunset + 10 seconds To Sunrise (next day) And Control 'Driveway sensor-Sensor' is switched On THEN Run Program 'Driveway cycle' (If Path) ELSE Nothing Program - "Driveway Cycle" IF Scene, "Driveway" IS "On" THEN Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On ELSE Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off I guess what I'm unclear about is will running the IF path subsequently run the following THEN and ELSE paths as well?

Ah got it so the repeat operator works as a "repeat the following" and not a "repeat the preceding" as I assumed. The scene is 3 in-lines in separate pairs of column lights on the driveway linked to a few KPLs. I like the variable idea though this unit is not on v5. Haven't gotten to play with it much. Is it stable and enough that I can use it at a client location? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am using a new motion sensor II to trigger some driveway lights. That part works using the "control" attribute of the motion sensor. What I want to do is get it so that it flashes the lights for a period of time upon motion detection. Ultimately I will want this to work in conjunction with the sunset-10pm timer for those lights in such a way that if motion is detected anytime between sunset-sunrise that they will flash and then return to previous state, (On if between sunset and 10pm, or Off if 10pm-sunrise). I tried running the trigger as the IF with the below THEN first. Then I tried putting the THEN portion in its own program thinking that the REPEAT command was trying to repeat the entire program with the trigger. Still it won't loop. It'll get through one off and on cycle but that's it. Thoughts? Then Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Repeat 10 times

Haven't done it yet, but was thinking sdn motors with the sdn>rts boxes I think. It's been a bit since I looked this over but I think that's what I was thinking of. So I guess they are rts receivers so that customers can also have an rts remote. I had it backwards, receivers, not transmitters. Though things have been changing recently with somfy, meaning they have some new products. So I'll take another look at what they have going on. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

First note here: just know that AC motors from somfy are going to be much quieter than DC motors. I did a couple of installs where I wired for DC motors and cat5 for control when my somfy contact told me I should start doing AC because they are so much quieter. Also I learned that somfy should be coming out with a better RTS>IP interface here soon, if they haven't already. I haven't checked in with them in awhile. I still plan to wire a couple of cat5 cables to each valence/area for the minimum of an RTS transmitter to carry commands from an ISY.

What apostolakisl said. Make sure that the transformers are dimmable first though. Otherwise you will damage the transformers over time. I would personally like more info on the system/transformers. It is curious that there would be NEMA 120v plugs for 12v lights. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Wherever the switch-leg from the fixture goes to is what becomes the "master" switchlinc for a scene that is your 3-way circuit. The "slave" switchlinc only needs hot, ground, and neutral connected and then you link the two switchlincs into your scene in the ISY.

There are several sites out there for LED strips and drivers but I've tended towards superbrightleds.com --- no real particular reason other than they have had what I was looking for a few times when I was having a hard time elsewhere so I just start there these days. Mean Well makes quality drivers this link shows their dimmable LED drivers. You can also find any number of strip lights from there as well. Makes sure that whatever strips you get are also dimmable. It isn't just the driver or the strip. They both need to be dimmable. But a switchlinc connected to the driver should dim the LED strips pretty well if not get you super low on the lights. That's the biggest problem with dimming LED's since you don't dim DC the same way as AC that driver has to do the translation. But like I said, Mean Well makes a quality product and they have worked well for me in the past. Nathan

I did need to adjust the drawing just slightly for the maker bot 2. It was just slightly to tight in the longer dimension and I couldn't get the last tab to get over the bed. So just a hair longer and it fit great. Question: is ventilation a thing for this application? I wouldn't think so for something like wood but not sure what plastic the buttons are made out of. Thinking abs but not positive. My 2 concerns are setting off fire alarms in my building and general health safety. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have some drawings files that I'll upload later for the double button. Arw01 are you asking for something other than the jig for the single and double buttons? The single button is in the github repository found a few pages back in this thread. If something else can you be more specific? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Too better address your question I would ask: 1) what is expensive to you for this project? 2) how do you plan on powering the driver/transformer? Outlet, existing light circuit with a j-box, or something else? 3) have you already purchased and strips or transformers that we need to work with? In general though how I do it is that I get an in-line Linc and a good dimmable driver, (around the $60-$80 mark) and then link the in-line to a switchlinc. You could go with a straight up light circuit switch leg to a switchlinc but I prefer the in lines because they tend to dim a little better with led drivers. Nathan Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Yup! That was the problem. My bad. Sorry for the bother.

1. I copied and pasted the admin console URL from the "ISY information" popup window from within the portal. So unless it's not showing the entire URL then yeah. 2. I currently have 2 users and 3 ISY's in my portal account. One ISY is currently offline, the other is accessible, and the one in question is the one that I'm having trouble with. I just added this new ISY, I created a new sub account for this location but did not create a new user with that UUID as the preferred UUID yet. I did just notice that when I filter the ISY's in the portal by account, if I select the "main account" I see both of the accessible ISY's but not the new one. Did I add it to the portal incorrectly? EDIT: I think the last thing above is the problem. I need to add the UUID to both accounts that need access. I misunderstood, or apparently just forgot that I needed to add it to the main account as well.

Permissions in the admin console have been granted: https://goo.gl/photos/X613TjgvW5oCwRR4A Also I do see it as online in the portal: https://goo.gl/photos/CJLGFVpJwArwxQdH8 Though a difference that I do see in the portal between this ISY and others is that with others I have "ISY web access" and "Maintenance" as options under the "select tool" menu. Did I miss some port forwarding that needed to happen? EDIT: pretty much the same response but a little bit more info from just the browser link: Requested ISY not found in the user's domain