Banichi

Yeah the button was originally part of the scene and had the same ramp rates and on-levels as the root scene. I removed it from the scene and then tried to use it in the program. I did use control but it did not function at all. So not sure if I have greater issues in the network. I have used status in some timers and typically use the 'is not off' operator as well and it functions well. But neither were working in this case. Event viewer shows a time stamp if I run the IF statement on control but it does not trigger the scene. No idea what I'm missing. I feel like the button on the KP may be part of the issue.

Yeah I'm just up against a deadline to get a certificate of occupancy before christmas. So I'm going to have to go with the dh variant for those I guess. Still need a PLM though.

I think that ISY/insteon is great for lighting control. Climate I would use something like ecobee or similar. Polyglot has node servers for a few of these options so if you want to consolidate I would check out the node servers and cross reference with what tstats you're interested in. Door locks are an area that is somewhat challenging in my experience. This is mainly due to distance/network limitations. Unless your ISY is right next to your door lock you will need a significant number of Zwave devices to build a network as @Bumbershoot pointed out.

So I have a similar question to one recently posted and I learned a bit from there about how IF conditions work. I don't typically use programs for basic scene control but I'm trying to troubleshoot why some LEDs flicker when a scene is triggered by a KPL button (member of scene) vs say triggering the scene directly from the ISY which produces zero flicker. So in an attempt to have the button trigger the scene rather than being part of the scene I tried to make a program that was like below: IF 'Master Suite / .Mstr Bath His Sconce / .Mstr Bath All' is switched on THEN Set 'Master Suite / Master Bath All' On I have also run with Status instead of control. When I have it as control nothing at all happens. If I have it as status nothing happens on it's own but if I "run IF" then it will do what I expect. It just doesn't seem to evaluate the IF on its own. Of note is that the 'control' variant would always show 'true' regardless of the button being on or off whereas the status reflects state correctly. My ultimate goal is to deal with the flicker on the LEDs but since the scene triggered from admin console produces no flicker I thought this would be a decent workaround. But on that note if I set the ramp rate to something like 2 or 4.5 seconds there is significant flicker on dimming. If I push and hold to dim it is smooth until I release the button in which case I get a brief flicker. Anywho. I would appreciate any thoughts on either issue.

Hey all. I know this isn't exactly the right place for this but kinda in desperate need at the moment. Looking for a serial PLM, (or 3) and some switchlinc dimmers, (5). Smarthome has been incredibly low on inventory and they haven't been able to tell me when anything will be back in stock. But I'm up against a deadline so wondering if there is anyone out there that would be willing to sell me any of my needs. PLM is most critical. Thanks Nathan

I just did an install with 4" LED retrofit can trims and the homeowner sourced the trims. He bought Sunco units and the flicker is awful! Just to test various other options in this style I put together a little test bench of sorts. Phillips trims seem to perform the best overall on a 2477D. Now of course there is no other insteon traffic to be had in this test but the Suncos were flickering pretty badly just on regular dimming. The Feit units that I got were smooth though cut off around the 10% mark whereas the Phillips had a smooth dim all the way out to 0. Cree was about on par with the Feit. The Hyperikon were the worst of the bunch being not particularly linear at the bottom end and would cut off somewhere closer to 20%. See the linked videos for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZwSQmvjAJqXt6YiUA https://photos.app.goo.gl/36CNEYuyhZ9Z7Yuk6

For those that are interested I have been looking into a bigger laser that will allow me to do batches of buttons. Since I install Insteon as part of my business I'm looking for a way to save hundreds of dollars per install. I've been going down the k40 rabbit hole and it seems quite interesting for sure. But definitely a bit of work to get up and running.

Doesn't scuff the buttons too noticeably then I take it?

Hey guys. So I'm curious what you guys are doing now that it seems smarthome has stopped selling blank buttons? It looks like the stock button are just screen printed. Wondering if there is a decent chemical process to just clean the stock buttons and then I can just use those?

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the sense wires requires a 120V line voltage or if it just needs any voltage to be triggered? I have a scenario where I have a piece of furniture that has some 12v push buttons that switch some LED strips. I'd like to use a micro module to switch them at the driver but still utilize the buttons that I can't move without leaving a bad hole and don't want to just make them inoperable. If there was a replacement that was 120V that would fit in the same spot then I would do that but I don't think that exists. Buttons are like 1/2' round buttons. Oh would it work to use a relay maybe with the existing buttons in conjunction with the sense wire? Maybe that's the solution. Sorry it's late, my brain is working poorly, and I'm just thinking out loud. Thoughts?

I did that and it didn't change but you confirming that I did the right thing somehow lead me to realizing that I needed to remove that ISY from the launcher list and then re-add it for the changes to be seen. Thanks!!

So I have a handful of ISYs that I manage and at some point I was able to make it so that the name that displays in the ISY launcher was a custom name. At this point I don't know if I figured out how to do that or if it was some happy accident. So I have 1 of several ISYs in my ISY finder that is easily identifiable. The rest I have to refer to the portal to find the UUID as a cross-reference. Does anyone know how I managed to change that one and or how to change it for others? I have tried changing the name of the top folder in the admin console from ISY to my desired name. I've made sure that in the UDI portal they have an alias and not just "ISY". I don't see a location in the admin console config page for such a field. I must be missing something. Nathan

Been using a green laser tape. It's a little difficult to work with but results are good. If masking tape had similar results then I would just use that. But it doesn't sound like it really does so I'll stick with what I've got. But I'll also check out that other thing you posted. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You use this instead of laser tape? No scarring? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I'm liking this concept. I think that I am going to invest in agave. I'm curious about thermostat control. Are you just able to talk to insteon tstats at the moment? Or do you have other non-insteon devices that you are able to control? I personally really like that you can rename devices on the app profile only btw. Helps keep the admin side functional while the UI side making sense to the end user. Back to tstats I'm also wondering what it would take to be able to create a macro like "device" in the UI for multiple tstats controlling a given zone. For example there is a house that has 10 heating zones and 4 cooling zones, (10 radiant floor zones and 4 hvac/AC zones) and I would like to be able to mux the 4 cooling zones with the 10 heating zones. So heat zones 1-3 overlap with cooling zone 1; heat zones 4-7 overlap with cooling zone 2; heat zone 8-9 overlap with cooling zone 3; heat zone 10 overlaps with cooling zone 4. So the corresponding cooling zone would respond via macro/ifttt type of action, (or whatever) based on the temp setting on the "device" in the UI. I think that I can accomplish what I want via nodeservers and programs but it would be nice if there were a tstat style of way to interact with that program. I dunno, thoughts?

The panels that they send cost a ridiculous amount of money. Though after thinking about it, it is likely related to their UL certification process and the associated costs. The entire BOM for the 5 zone panel is roughly $1500. But having the enclosure with a UL cert label on it makes it a lot easier to pass inspections. The SSR that you listed is almost the exact same as what is in the panel for this job. The units that shipped with our panel are RGC1P48V42ED at $168 each. Those units also have the soft start option. I'm guessing that the went with the 42 instead of the 30 to have a little room on the current spec. Regarding the residual voltage bleed on the qubino, you can do what @apostolakisl suggested with a resistor, (and a fan to cool it most likely). I'm thinking about either using a incandescent flashlight battery to bleed the voltage with the possible added benefit of an "off" indicator light if it actually illuminates. The only suggestion that I would make to your plan is that you do have some sort of breaker near by for emergency shutoff purposes. The panel that Infratech sells has the din rail mounted mini breakers. The ones that shipped with our unit are 2-pole 30A breakers from Schneider Electric at about another $160-ish.

Okay so update on this. I have the qubino flush dimmer that I mentioned. It works with 5.0.13C, (which is what my ISY shipped with) without any particular configuration necessary. The qubino has many on-device parameters that can be configured that I probably won't need. The "Multilevel Switch" aspect of the device controls the 0-10v output. I have attached the meter and it is pretty darn accurate for 10% = 1V. For example 30%=3.153V on the meter. So not super spot on but if your tolerances are +- 150mV then you should be able to use this for anything requiring 0-10V. Of note is that the 0% or OFF setting has a residual 160mV-ish. So I still may need that The only problem I forsee with this is range. They will be the only z-wave devices in this install so I'll have to get the ISY close enough to talk to them. This is the biggest downside to z-wave + insteon that I've found. Z-wave just doesn't have the range that insteon does due to no powerline coms/ no dual band. That said I did find a distributor that had 4 of the 2475DA2 units so I bought them all. I needed 8 so I may end up going with the qubino units so if someone really needs a insteon ballast dimmer then let me know. I may be willing to part with them.

Yes that device looks like it would work great! I just got one of the Z-wave devices that I mentioned in one of my earlier posts. The Qubino Flush DImmer 0-10v. I just had to use my ISY for a customer site since I got a ISY that was DOA. First time that has ever happened. So I need to get a new z-wave isy in so that I can test this bad boy out. I'd like to test out the triac dimmer unit that you posted as well. I'll update on the z-wave module when I get my new ISY.

Z-wave devices that have more than 1 function like the motion sensor that has a motion sensor, dusk/dawn sensor, and triggering are multi-channel devices. I know that some of them were problematic in the beginning of z wave implementation but I also know it was improving. So I guess we'll see. I just bought one to test out. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks for that Larry. I was thinking that I might have to build my own power supply if I had to go that route. However, I just thought about Z-wave and 0-10v solutions and I found this guy: http://qubino.com/products/flush-dimmer0-10v/ Don't know what support would be like in the ISY. It is multi-channel and I haven't done much at all with z-wave on the ISY yet. I really want to but just haven't had the time. How is multi-channel support coming along in 5.x.x?

This is not the same question as the other recently posted question that was talking about 0-10v LED control. What I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way using insteon or the ISY to send 0-10vdc outputs for controlling IR heating units. I think that I could have made the ballast dimmer work but it does seem as though it is discontinued. With that I would have used it as if I were controlling a regular dimmable ballast but just cap off the load wires and just used the 10vdc wires as the control mechanism. But without those I'm not quite sure how to accomplish this task. 0V is 0% on the heater and 10V is 100% on the heater. What would be ideal is if I had a way to use insteon directly to control that output, like a din rail dimmer to a variable, (unregulated?) power supply that has a max output of 10v

Okay so could the following work: If Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 1' > Off Or Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 2' > Off Or Status 'Devices / IN-LINEs / driveway 3' > Off Then Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Wait 1 Second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Else Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 1 Second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off So the Else would not run because scene state does not exist. But if I use the state of the devices in the scene as the condition does that adequately function as a condition?

I've adjusted the repeat command and it works correctly. Now regarding the variable. Can I not save the scene's on/off state as a variable in 4.6.2? I don't necessarily need to precise level just on vs off and then pull that from the variable? Or could I not do a second program and have it setup like this: Program - "Driveway Motion" IF From Sunset + 10 seconds To Sunrise (next day) And Control 'Driveway sensor-Sensor' is switched On THEN Run Program 'Driveway cycle' (If Path) ELSE Nothing Program - "Driveway Cycle" IF Scene, "Driveway" IS "On" THEN Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On ELSE Repeat 60 times Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off I guess what I'm unclear about is will running the IF path subsequently run the following THEN and ELSE paths as well?

Ah got it so the repeat operator works as a "repeat the following" and not a "repeat the preceding" as I assumed. The scene is 3 in-lines in separate pairs of column lights on the driveway linked to a few KPLs. I like the variable idea though this unit is not on v5. Haven't gotten to play with it much. Is it stable and enough that I can use it at a client location? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am using a new motion sensor II to trigger some driveway lights. That part works using the "control" attribute of the motion sensor. What I want to do is get it so that it flashes the lights for a period of time upon motion detection. Ultimately I will want this to work in conjunction with the sunset-10pm timer for those lights in such a way that if motion is detected anytime between sunset-sunrise that they will flash and then return to previous state, (On if between sunset and 10pm, or Off if 10pm-sunrise). I tried running the trigger as the IF with the below THEN first. Then I tried putting the THEN portion in its own program thinking that the REPEAT command was trying to repeat the entire program with the trigger. Still it won't loop. It'll get through one off and on cycle but that's it. Thoughts? Then Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast On Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'Scenes / Driveway' Fast Off Repeat 10 times