Banichi

Haven't done it yet, but was thinking sdn motors with the sdn>rts boxes I think. It's been a bit since I looked this over but I think that's what I was thinking of. So I guess they are rts receivers so that customers can also have an rts remote. I had it backwards, receivers, not transmitters. Though things have been changing recently with somfy, meaning they have some new products. So I'll take another look at what they have going on. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

First note here: just know that AC motors from somfy are going to be much quieter than DC motors. I did a couple of installs where I wired for DC motors and cat5 for control when my somfy contact told me I should start doing AC because they are so much quieter. Also I learned that somfy should be coming out with a better RTS>IP interface here soon, if they haven't already. I haven't checked in with them in awhile. I still plan to wire a couple of cat5 cables to each valence/area for the minimum of an RTS transmitter to carry commands from an ISY.

What apostolakisl said. Make sure that the transformers are dimmable first though. Otherwise you will damage the transformers over time. I would personally like more info on the system/transformers. It is curious that there would be NEMA 120v plugs for 12v lights. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Wherever the switch-leg from the fixture goes to is what becomes the "master" switchlinc for a scene that is your 3-way circuit. The "slave" switchlinc only needs hot, ground, and neutral connected and then you link the two switchlincs into your scene in the ISY.

There are several sites out there for LED strips and drivers but I've tended towards superbrightleds.com --- no real particular reason other than they have had what I was looking for a few times when I was having a hard time elsewhere so I just start there these days. Mean Well makes quality drivers this link shows their dimmable LED drivers. You can also find any number of strip lights from there as well. Makes sure that whatever strips you get are also dimmable. It isn't just the driver or the strip. They both need to be dimmable. But a switchlinc connected to the driver should dim the LED strips pretty well if not get you super low on the lights. That's the biggest problem with dimming LED's since you don't dim DC the same way as AC that driver has to do the translation. But like I said, Mean Well makes a quality product and they have worked well for me in the past. Nathan

I did need to adjust the drawing just slightly for the maker bot 2. It was just slightly to tight in the longer dimension and I couldn't get the last tab to get over the bed. So just a hair longer and it fit great. Question: is ventilation a thing for this application? I wouldn't think so for something like wood but not sure what plastic the buttons are made out of. Thinking abs but not positive. My 2 concerns are setting off fire alarms in my building and general health safety. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have some drawings files that I'll upload later for the double button. Arw01 are you asking for something other than the jig for the single and double buttons? The single button is in the github repository found a few pages back in this thread. If something else can you be more specific? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Too better address your question I would ask: 1) what is expensive to you for this project? 2) how do you plan on powering the driver/transformer? Outlet, existing light circuit with a j-box, or something else? 3) have you already purchased and strips or transformers that we need to work with? In general though how I do it is that I get an in-line Linc and a good dimmable driver, (around the $60-$80 mark) and then link the in-line to a switchlinc. You could go with a straight up light circuit switch leg to a switchlinc but I prefer the in lines because they tend to dim a little better with led drivers. Nathan Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Yup! That was the problem. My bad. Sorry for the bother.

1. I copied and pasted the admin console URL from the "ISY information" popup window from within the portal. So unless it's not showing the entire URL then yeah. 2. I currently have 2 users and 3 ISY's in my portal account. One ISY is currently offline, the other is accessible, and the one in question is the one that I'm having trouble with. I just added this new ISY, I created a new sub account for this location but did not create a new user with that UUID as the preferred UUID yet. I did just notice that when I filter the ISY's in the portal by account, if I select the "main account" I see both of the accessible ISY's but not the new one. Did I add it to the portal incorrectly? EDIT: I think the last thing above is the problem. I need to add the UUID to both accounts that need access. I misunderstood, or apparently just forgot that I needed to add it to the main account as well.

Permissions in the admin console have been granted: https://goo.gl/photos/X613TjgvW5oCwRR4A Also I do see it as online in the portal: https://goo.gl/photos/CJLGFVpJwArwxQdH8 Though a difference that I do see in the portal between this ISY and others is that with others I have "ISY web access" and "Maintenance" as options under the "select tool" menu. Did I miss some port forwarding that needed to happen? EDIT: pretty much the same response but a little bit more info from just the browser link: Requested ISY not found in the user's domain

True. Though this was filtering a non-Insteon dimmer. There are some 1000W dimmers from lutron but this one was not one of those. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Yeah I did think about current rating. Was hoping to find a 15A rated one but the fixture won't be pulling anywhere near that so I think I'll be okay. I would be a little worried if any single light circuit was pulling more than 10A in a residential setting, (not to say that it's unheard of, just not common I wouldn't think). Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The choke that I ended up with that worked well was this guy at digikey. I of course needed to wrap it in an insulator so that it wouldn't short with the ground, so I got a large enough piece of heat shrink and did that. The posts were just long enough to wire nut the hot going to the dimmer to 2 posts. The other 2 posts were not needed. Meaning I only needed to filter on the hot and not also the neutral going to the fixture.

I am installing an ISY at a site and I wanted to make sure that I had full remote access. So using my laptop at the site I logged into my office machine and then copied the admin console URL from ISY portal. I then add that URL to the ISY finder and it discovers the UUID just fine and brings me to the login screen. From here if I put in the proper credentials, (my isy portal credentials) then admin console returns the [LIB_ERRORS-403] message. Any subsequent attempt to login just results in the authentication box showing a "Failed, Retry, Authenticating ISY" at the title of the box. If I just attempt a definitely wrong user/pass combination no specific error. It is just the first time that I put in the correct user/pass that the error pops up. I am guess/hoping that this may just be a cyclical issue with being at the site and trying to remote to a computer and then remote back. But, in case I am wrong about that, please let me know if any of you have encountered this issue before. EDIT: I realized that I was also logged into admin console locally and thought that that may have been causing the issue but I reattempted without being logged in locally and I got the same result. Nathan

Yeah finally found it buried in some tech spec PDFs. They refer to it as a "lamp debuzzing coil" aka a filter choke. But simply Lurton filter did not yield any products. Perseverance wins the battle. Part numbers CPW0035 (100W-200W); CPW0036 (200W-400W), CPW0037 (400W-800W); CPW1346-OCP (600W-1200W) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

well the lights on the kpl were fixed by replacing the bulbs with some $6 Cree bulbs instead of the $2 Westinghouse bulbs from the supply house. Can't specifically find that Lutron filter kit but then again using the Google is a skill in itself. Looks like it's just a choke though. Maybe I can work something up. I wonder if even one of the induction snap on ones would work. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Okay so the incandescent load that is on the Lutron dimmer it sounds like it's the dinner that's the problem. And on the kpl maybe I can do the flash on tx device option and see if that helps. I'll get another switchlinc for that incandescent load. I'll report back with results. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

So I have 2 circuits that flicker if the loads are not at full when there is insteon activity on the network. Is it possible that the phase bridge(s) is causing the problem? I have 2 phase bridges as I have 2 panels, (not a sub-panel) in this install. I thought at first that it was just because there were some crappy LED's installed in the one circuit but the other circuit is an incandescent one. Also to be clear the one circuit is through and 8-button dimmer and the other, (incandescent load) is on a regular luton dimmer. I'll have to see what my electrician did in the panel. I'm wondering if he piggy-backed on those circuits with the phase bridges and maybe that's why? I dunno thoughts? Oh and also, there are about 40 insteon light circuits in this house and the only ones flickering are the 2 that I mentioned.

Wondering if there is a way to force a device to beep like it does when it enters programming mode?

All of the buttons in the scene light and turn off when the scene is triggered on or off respectively except for the new Dining room KPL button B. Its led stays in its current state unless the scene is triggered from that button specifically and then the LED turns off and on, (ie a local press of the button is the only thing that toggles the LED on that button).

I have a very similar problem with my KPL that I just replaced. The new unit keys do not respond when part of a scene. I think that they may not have been added to the scene correctly. I have 4 KPL's and a mini remote that control the same scene and the other three LED's match the status of the scene when triggered, as did the unit that was pulled. The scene is setup in the following manner: In-linelinc is the load controller - Dining Room -- in scene as responder Dining room KPL Button B - Button/KPL that is the issue at hand -- in scene as controller Master Bedroom KPL - Button D -- in scene as controller Bedside table KPL - Button D -- in scene as controller Kitchen KPL - Button D -- in scene as controller All are set to the default non-toggle to "off". When I hit the button on the KPL in question it triggers the scene and the LED responds as expected as do all the other KPLs. It's just when the scene is triggered from another controller that it doesn't respond. Since I replaced this KPL is it possible that the scene is somehow corrupted?

I am aware that you must remove a device from and folders before you can actually remove the device from the ISY and thus remove the links. I personally find this a bit irritating but curios if this is a deliberate sort of safety measure or something?

Ok. I did that and it seems to be working as expected. Thanks. Now I think I have to rebuild some scenes because the other buttons aren't lighting up when the scene is activated from another kpl or mini remote. Fun times. Thanks techman! Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

I'm just replacing an 8-button KPL in my house and I'm having trouble configuring the LED backlight properly. It has no load attached to it. It only controls in-line and other insteon modules. I'm pretty sure that I there was something I had to do to my original unit to make it so that it would ignore any load sensing and turn the LED off when toggled off. But as it is now it gets brighter when on and then dims to maybe level 3 or something. I tried setting it to 0 in the admin console, changed it away from 0 and then back again but to no avail. What can't I remember here? Nathan