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Everything posted by larryllix
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hmmmm...I didn't know bateries affected the reporting of temperate. Good point. I am probably talking 1.5 degrees C too and that is pretty coarse.
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I would be worried that the detection of temperature chnage for a heartbeat, would fail occasionally. You could OR in a humidity change detection as well, Humidity seems to be reported on a timed constant basis on my units. I cut the plug off a 5v adapter and wired it. The batteries are left in as a backup and you should be able to get 5 years out of a set of batteries then. Humidity reports about every 60 seconds on AC but only every 5 minutes on batteries. A simple USB PSU would work for that and commonly available. The 0.5F exception reporting would be awesome. Most report about 1.5F change to report. Have you actually seen this in ISY? The 2441ZTH screen changes do not coincide what the stat reports to ISY , on my older units. This could affect your heartbeat technique.
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Can Alexa control a KPL button which, in turn, controls a program?
larryllix replied to smokegrub's topic in Amazon Echo
I have to agree with Scott, Here. I prefer my programs and devices simple and let ISY do all the decisions where possible. Things that flip back and forth complicate this a lot and can cost many hours later when things fail. Let the KPL buttons not toggle and trigger a program with a Wait 1 seconds in it that turns on a scene to light the LED, avoiding Insteon traffic congestion. The LED scene can also be tied to the KPL button (I think) for a faster response for the human eye. -
After my father died my mother didn't bother to maintain the humidifier on her furnace. Her 30 year old maple buffet side panel spilt from top to bottom with an 1/8" gap. Her dining room table with full 1" maple top split almost down the middle from end to end with about a 3/8" gap. I could put a screwdriver blade down through it to the handle. In the summer, the gap closed completely and then she sanded the top down, and refinished it with new stain and urethane finish. The next winter the gap split again to the same 3/8" gap. Looking at the construction, they glued and screwed the top planks to another piece of hard maple, crosswise to the top lamination planks. That's a woodworking no-no. They should have had slide slots for screw fastening, or used a metal undersupport that doesn't swell or contract. Lasted 30 years though. Without humidity added our homes here will drop to about 10-15% RH, especially if not lived in, with breathing, sweating, showers, and cooking moisture
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allows turning off updates. Careful with this. I have MSes that are not capable of using delayed update writes, and my system ground to a halt sometimes when an MS would see motion. ISY was trying to use my auto-update programs to update a device, ad nauseum, and Insteon comms were tied up for 20-30 seconds at a time, before other any other traffic could go through. The busy box was almost always present in the admin console.
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I always use this vocal syntax. "Alexa. Turn On XXXX <to 50%>" <...> optional "Alexa. Turn Off XXXX"
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Have you just tried to insert a Wait 2 seconds between each scene in the list? You may have created an Insteon data storm with some new device, or some change in system, or a failing PLM etc.. It would be worth a try. Insteon is the weak link in the ISY system most of the time. Also, I should mention the delayed write to Battery operated devices can cause big problems. I have MSes that cannot handle it, and everytime an MS saw motion, ISY would operate my delayed update programs to write to devices, that couldn't handle it. They would never ACK. It seemed like my ISY write caches were laden full, and bogging my whole Insteon system down with every motion sensed. About ten minutes of clearing these caches with my MSes, deleting the update programs, and turning that nonsense off worked wonders. Now I can put an MS into linking mode, write an option change and it finishes in 30 seconds instead of ten minutes. Now my constant Busy Box in admin console actually goes away.
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I used all 5/8" thick baseboard (Alexandria Moldings @ HD) but trying to buy a few more lengths recently, it has become really expensive at about $5 / foot for the pressed cardboard stuff. This is when you start cutting lengths in the store and leaving the waste 1' pieces there.
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Either is most kleenex! "2 x 4" has become a trade name for a product. The patent ran out! I would be sure you worked with some real 2x4s in your day. Always fun to drill through 2 or 3 of them laminated. WoW!
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Since this got lost... This comes back to the OP. Why do you need to run a wire for Insteon? EDIT: Ohh re-reading the OP this is a cable with two conductors.
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Here are two Borg website searches for the US and the Canuck site. Take your pick. Baseboard comes from 1/4" to 1" thick in either culture. Production builders never put in the thicker stuff so people end up using 1/4 round moulding attached to their existing base when they redo their floors to save time. I only did that once for a house I dumped. As a builder/woodworker myself, I find the look of an "add-on" 1/4 round to be cheap looking and appears as a patch job. It is very common to see it and very little baseboard is ever seen in a house anyway. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/categories/building-materials/moulding-and-millwork/moulding/baseboard-moulding.html https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Moulding-Millwork-Moulding/N-5yc1vZara1/Ntk-Extended/Ntt-baseboard?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5 Note: Canada is not metric. They are trying to be metric and it became a legal requirement for about ten years until a gas vendor contested it after he was charged with selling gasoline in avoirdupois measurements.. USA started metricating much earlier, about 1955, but never forced the concept. When our sheets of plywood stop being sold into the USA they may become metric sizes. Once that happens the metrication will begin again in the lumber industry. Put that in your 2 x 4s
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It's more about the price of the baseboard that determines it. Most of these baseboard styles are only 1/4" thick now so any expansion required would require a quarter round to thicken it out ad hide the expansiongap required by the the new-tech laminates. In the old days baseboard was a good 3/4 inch or 1 inch thick. When I built house i specifically looked for extra thick mouldings. Real hardware flooring doesn't need much expansion. If they expanded it would tear all the fastening nails out of the floor. I use tropical TigerWood (not a golf thing) and it just doesn't move at all in 35 feet. Heck, left ouside in the winter the wood doesn't abosrb hardly any moisture or show any UV damage. The newer plastic laminates require a lot of expansion and will bubble your floor badly. I have seen floors done by home-owners bubble 3 feet high in the air in the middle because they were pinned down at each end. This comes back to the OP. Why do you need to run a wire for Insteon?
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Just some basics. The LEDs in the buttons will always flash when pressed. You can change the brightness levels of the LEDs (together) with a program in ISY. To turn LEDs on or Off requires an Insteon scene, you can create in the admin console, and you can control them with programs or a direct Insteon link (scene). I prefer the control and a slight delay of the program method.
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You will need some additional logic depending on what your programs do. Post your programs. Guessing is too hard.
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These are only scenes that ISY is aware of. Scenes created on the side (manually at the devices) will not show in that ISY display. Nice V5? feature though.
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Go to the bottom of your devices in admin console and see if any Scene exists that contains The MS and/or the device. This would be a scene you created using ISY as a scene manager. To eliminate any scenes created without ISY scene management, right click on each device and select "restore" Battery devices have to be placed into "Linking mode" first,
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What are they supposed to do? Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk
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There could be two things I can think of. - You may not have enough posts to paste things (troll and spam control) - Try the Code paste box by clicking on the '<>' option above the text entry box.
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Note you can right click on your program in the program tree, select copy, and paste it in the forum posts.
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It is usually better to disabe all the jumpers except for #5 to allow ISY to set the options, disable the Off signal and ignore any timing built into the Insteon MS. A few workarounds have been found for disabling the MS to Lamp with a direct Insteon connection (scene). - dim the lamp level so it cannot be detected as On. - set a long ramp on speed for the MS/lamp scene and beat if out with a programmed Fast Off. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17495-how-to-use-a-ms-with-lights-for-faster-response/?hl=faster IIRC v5 has a disable function built into the ISY language, now.
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Zippo. Waits are retriggerable in ISY. If he keeps moving the Wait (in the Then section) starts over each time. Most disable the Off send from the MS so ISY can control it based on more decisions.
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Maybe I tuned in too late but why are we deviating from the standard three line program for a MS and Light? Who cares if the light ws off if we are turning it on? IF Motion detector is switched On AND Laundry light is OFF Then ....set Laundry Light ON ,,,, wait 2 minutes ,,,,set laundry light off Else ....nothin'
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Always, always, always factory reset every Insteon device before linking into ISY. Use the delete existing links when linking. Easier to setup the bulb when closer to the PLM and may need dual band Insteon devices as repeaters to reach the bulb, especially if it is on the other phase leg of the 240 volt service in your house. Dual band units close to the service panel or a mechanical bridge between the phase legs can work for this. I have avoided any extenders, or phase bridge units in my Insteon system...old technology replaced by dual band Insteon devices.
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