larryllix

This is one feature I always like to install. The just-in-case safety lines. Spot on!

I don't know why any designer would use these old Molex style pins for a PCB edge connector, anymore. People using the old SS-50 bus (SouthWest Technical Products) based computer motherboards, know what I am talking about. After about a year of use it was very common to have to unplug and replug these connectors every few weeks to wipe the contact metals clean again. This was with 1-2 MHz CPU signals. I hate to think about GHz speeds using this junk. Then came the contact cleaner spray and silicone, anti-oxide spray coatings and then eventually polishing the oxide away, and garbage. Gold plating was tried with much better luck but became too expensive. I see the ISY Zwave assesory PCB uses these connectors as well as the GPIO bus on RPIs.

Welcome to the UDI forums!!! I would get a proper direct wired thermostat system for this application. The difference between 102F and 105F is from luke-warm to scalding feeling, where you will not be able to get in the tub. The Insteon stat will never handle this accurately enough. If you want to monitor and use ISY based setbacks etc.. I would recommend using a CAO Wireless Tag that comes with the remote probe. There is currently another thread regarding this matter in the forum. Once you purchase a Tag manager, other Tags can be added for so many applications with ISY. The kumoapp code for this is posted in another thread on the forums.

Find the thread with the CAO Tags information. I posted a kumoapp program that you can drop into the kumoapp. This will take some talking you through it but you can do it.

You need to write your program in the Else section then you can use. Hey Google! Turn Fan Off.

Create scenes with every combination you desire and operate the scenes. I would create programs with each combination of devices and operate the programs. It is less likely to constantly lose Insteon links in the devices when using so many via the scene method and the lighting could be staged with slight delays if desired.

I find that much granularity is useless even. 100%, 40%, 20% and 12% or whatever the lowest the bulbs go are about all that is needed. 80% could be added to avoid overheating LED bulbs that are mounted upside down. Yes! they will burn your hands when you unscrew them from a ceiling pot light (US = tophat = can light)

Working at -20C last week.

I didn't know you could automate apouses, at all. Mine can certainly create a scene though. Alexa! Bring me a beer!

It has been reported many times on this forum that the PLM link report will stop as soon as some data traffic happens. This means that any count with a low count may mean nothing. People pushed the idea of successive tries at the link reporting methods and not putting any value in the actual reports. Try it again, a few more times, in an Insteon quiet house.

Exactly. If they would have forced a temperature update every 60 seconds (300 on batteries) it would act as a heartbeat and a more accurate update for the primary parameter wanted from any stat. SmartiePants doesn't seem too versed in protocols. It's hard to believe they even designed Insteon. I doubt they did, or the mastermind left years ago.

Thanks you for supporting our side! :) You need a vocal input product. Once setup users get familiar with the vocal techniques and start to use them. My wife partially hates HA but she knows it is my hobby and doesn't bark too much but she has learned form my vocals to instruct Alexa to get what she wants mostly.

While I believe the point about the difference in systems was totally missed here, having a system that performs both well, would be nice. I have to agree about HA. To push the example to a ridiculous extreme....If we don't want home automation, why buy a thermostat? Just buy a HVAC switch and turn your HVAC on and off as needed. I've seen a lot of people that use their stats as a switch. One particular trade type comes to mind that should know better, from my experiences. BTW:With smart stats, amazon devices, and Google Home devices, I do NOT operate my stat from any of it. I don't even have the control connected. Stats are automatic and should never need manipulating manually. I am very picky about my comfort. If the temp is too high or too low by 1 degree C, I am sweatng or chilled. OTOH: Many like the HA, they just don't want the challenge of setting it up from scratch, so they substitute convenient manual control methods.

The humidifier companies formerly promoted themselves by claiming you would save money on your heating bill due to making you feel more comfortable at a lower temperature. I talked to a guy years back on Usenet groups that threatened legal action on a big HVAC company, and they stopped advertising that.

The Tag part could be left inside a pocket glued to the outside of the cover and the probe just penetrating the cover to the inside through a small pinhole that should seal behind the insertion. IIRC the probes are just 1-Wire temperature probes that you can buy on ebay for $0.99 usually. easily replaced except for the moulded plug they use.

Somehow this program got deleted and I had to recreate it. This is my latest using NodeLink input from the Ecobee current weather reporting. Sync.Temp.out.average - [ID 00FE][Parent 0101] If $sTag3.temp < 45 Or 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature <= 45.0° Or $sWC8.outTemp.raw < 450 Then $TempAvg.sum = 0 $TempAvg.contrib.cnt = 0 // sum inputs within dev.max of past average and keep count // start with sensor 1, if within deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.deviation /= 10 $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.sum /= 10 $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // add in sensor 2, if within deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // add in sensor 3, if wihin deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // none worked, get all new Repeat While $TempAvg.contrib.cnt is 0 $TempAvg.sum = $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.sum /= 10 $TempAvg.sum += $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.sum += 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.contrib.cnt = 3 Repeat 1 times // finish calcs with what we got $TempAvg.sum /= $TempAvg.contrib.cnt $sHouse.outTemp = $TempAvg.sum $sHouse.outTemp Init To $TempAvg.sum Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I try to keep my humidity above 36% in the winter. This is almost impossible if my HRV runs more than a few minutes per day in this -15C degree weather. If I have ISY manage it about as tight as I can get I only have to cart less than 3-4 gallons of water per day for my humidifier. When I built my house many people commented if it was vapour sealed as tight as I have it I would never need a central humidifier, (so common here) on my furnace. I made the mistake of listening to them and now do not have enough room around my air-handler to add a humidifier. With an HRV removing new paint and other household fumes for the last ten years, the vapour barrier being enough to keep in humidity is BS. I have co-ordination programs in ISY to maximise the efficiency by running ventilation, humidity and HRV simultaneously. MWaremans logging programs have helped me immensely to debug what I was doing, all inside the ISY spare memory space. These ISY programs have saved ma a lot of heating bill size as well as reduced my water hauling for the humidifier, and maximised home comfort. I use ISY to compensate the thermostat when the outside home chill factor is below a certain temperature factor, by adding in the square of the wind speed times a factor, to the difference between the average temperature outside (three sensors) and the setpoint inside. This adds 0.5C to the stat setpoint temporarily so that cold periods are not felt. My window panes only condense slightly at below -16C. I don't adjust my humidity for my house structure. I have extreme vapour barrier and insulation. The housing inspector told me I didn't need the vapour barrier with 2 inches of foam on the outside, lap sealed. The double vapour barrier worries me somewhat but the wood was well dried and the outside seal isn't sealed on the top plate of the wood construction. Yes. You can drive yourself crazy worrying about all the things you don't know about. Ignorance is bliss usually

Try plugging the LampLinc into the same circuit. You may have new noisemaker in your wiring. Linking takes a lot more data transfer than a simple report an event data length. More chances to fail.

Somewhere in the archives of this forum I reported the reading from my 2441ZTH stat below the freezing point. IIRC the temperature reported down to about -3C (26F) but since the binary values are only for positive interpretation the figures became 250 counts and appeared as +125.0C For you binary mathematicians this is easy for one byte aritmetic (250 - 28 ) / 2 = - 2.5 degrees C. At about -3.0 C the electronics crapped out and just stopped sending Insteon. (It couldn't even cry for help but I may have heard faint whimpers ) Hopefully you will know before that ever happens. You need some better house insulation if you get those gore -b Al ly warmed temperatures He doesn't live in Canada, so it's not a problem here.

Several times I have been away with my tenps set down to 10C and it takes about two weeks to achieve that low temperature in the house, with our typical -10 to -20C outside temperatures. OTOH: I have slab heating in the basement and it leaks somewhat into the ground taking several days to come up to temp for normal heating, so the cool down will be longer also. (large thermal mass) When I was building, I spent a winter with no ceiling drywall, no vapour barrier and no insulation, but only 2" of styrofoam on the outside walls. No hydro or NG yet, and no heating attempted either. My future sump pit (no concrete on the basement floor) froze for one day and then thawed the next day, by itself. Now that is in the ground also.We don't get the sun like you do out west of here so not as much radiant solar.

hmmmm...I didn't know bateries affected the reporting of temperate. Good point. I am probably talking 1.5 degrees C too and that is pretty coarse.

I would be worried that the detection of temperature chnage for a heartbeat, would fail occasionally. You could OR in a humidity change detection as well, Humidity seems to be reported on a timed constant basis on my units. I cut the plug off a 5v adapter and wired it. The batteries are left in as a backup and you should be able to get 5 years out of a set of batteries then. Humidity reports about every 60 seconds on AC but only every 5 minutes on batteries. A simple USB PSU would work for that and commonly available. The 0.5F exception reporting would be awesome. Most report about 1.5F change to report. Have you actually seen this in ISY? The 2441ZTH screen changes do not coincide what the stat reports to ISY , on my older units. This could affect your heartbeat technique.

I find the devices usually cause some problem indicating it is needed about once every few months, only. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

I have to agree with Scott, Here. I prefer my programs and devices simple and let ISY do all the decisions where possible. Things that flip back and forth complicate this a lot and can cost many hours later when things fail. Let the KPL buttons not toggle and trigger a program with a Wait 1 seconds in it that turns on a scene to light the LED, avoiding Insteon traffic congestion. The LED scene can also be tied to the KPL button (I think) for a faster response for the human eye.

After my father died my mother didn't bother to maintain the humidifier on her furnace. Her 30 year old maple buffet side panel spilt from top to bottom with an 1/8" gap. Her dining room table with full 1" maple top split almost down the middle from end to end with about a 3/8" gap. I could put a screwdriver blade down through it to the handle. In the summer, the gap closed completely and then she sanded the top down, and refinished it with new stain and urethane finish. The next winter the gap split again to the same 3/8" gap. Looking at the construction, they glued and screwed the top planks to another piece of hard maple, crosswise to the top lamination planks. That's a woodworking no-no. They should have had slide slots for screw fastening, or used a metal undersupport that doesn't swell or contract. Lasted 30 years though. Without humidity added our homes here will drop to about 10-15% RH, especially if not lived in, with breathing, sweating, showers, and cooking moisture