larryllix

I just know from the last leak I had to open the LS and shake and pat the excess water out of the inside. If the liquid is deeper than 1/8" the LS will have moisture inside it that may play havoc with the PCB and/or the battery contacts, oxidizing them badly and ruining the LS for the next time. The case needs all the breathing holes it can get to dry out excess moisture after a leak detect.

I have a whole house well pump on an OnOffLinc that will sut it off based on 4 LS units around the house. Since I have an open hydronic system with over 3000' of 1/2' PEX ful of water my system will run for almost a half an hour on a depreciating pressure basis. The drains in select basement spots should look after most of that and limit the depth of flooding. Sure there will be some damage and a neighbour would get called in but imagine coming home after your water poured into the basement full ON for a week and your bathing suits all need to be washed? I also have one beside the washing machine to shut off the washing machine power. We had some problems with the drain pump clogging a while back and shutting off the machine usually closes the valves and stops the centrifugal water level rise from spinning. Notifications are sent out with notices what to correct and to use codes "AAAA" and "BBBB" on the KPL to reset the power to devices, so ISY wouldn't have to be entered via the Admin Console, for a non-HA person involved. Always think about the recovery. It may be a false alarm or really minor. Make sure notifications include enough information, including how the resolve clues.

You need to create two scenes, one with both lights at 100% and one with both lights at 20%. Each scene needs to have one switches as a controller. Playing with the On level for each switch will only affect that switches local operation and not the other responder. To affect both you need to adjust the levels in the scenes created..

I have never been that impressed with Elon Musk. His Power Wall hype started a year or so ago and I did some research. Per kWh of storage the Power Wall averages about ten times the cost of other current technologies. Telsa like to give the impression you just plug in the Power Wall into any receptacle in your house and away it goes saving the world. He has a huge following of uneducated yuppies drooling after every word he says. What you really get, is an under sized battery bank that would never power any household , and a charger to charge a 300-450 volt battery bank. Now you need switching circuits, grid-tie inverter and safety lock-out devices before generating anything back into the grid. Suddenly you have another $15K on top of this expensive battery and charger , for this to even work When you start to compare what this actual box contains: I have a 6.6 kWh flooded battery bank for less than $380 CAN and the Power Wall offers a 7kW battery bank for $3000 US if you buy 100 units as a distributor. That was the press release price at the time. Here's the real kicker. The maximum load you can put on a Telsa Power Wall is 2kW, enough to run one fridge and a few light bulbs. I assume it will take short overloads while the fridge compressor starts up. My small flooded battery bank will take a 70kW load for a few minutes and not damage it. LioN batteries are very restricted to how fast you can charge them. Huge solar PV banks cannot force charge these things so oversizing would be a requirement of LioN batteries. They explode. This Power Wall was designed to hype the elitists with Telsa cars to attempt to delay charging of the car batteries to when electrical energy is cheaper, after complaints that the Telsa hype was untrue about the economy of the cars. To power a home using Power Wall units would take about 5 or more units and the difference between on peak and off peak rates, you could save with those, would never pay the cost of the energy saved for the rest of any of our lives. Never mind the cost of replacing them every ten years. So far no battery system can ever store energy as cheaply as the grid can produce it. When they crack that barrier things in the energy world will change. The LioN battery technology is a good step towards that but Elon Musk borders on a con man. Very brave and a leader, though. Maybe multi-level marketing schemes will come about with Telsa next. Currently they have opened a chain of stores handling their jackets, bags, shoes and other Telsa wear paraphernalia across North America. I wonder if Disney is watching? A lot off topic here but that scam the energy uneducated people stuff really annoys me.

Use "switched" instead of "status" If "status" is actually wanted then use "Not Off" or "> 0" If one SwitchLinc is used to control light2 with Status, and then light2 is turned off, but then wanted back on from the first SwitchLinc, "status" will not operate the second switch via a program. "Switched" will trigger a program every time the switch paddle is operated. "Status" will trigger a program only when the switch turns on the light. Note: Earlier than v5.x ISY versions use Control switchlinc is switched 'On' while v5.+ uses switchlinc is switched 'On' The 'control' word may be disappearing.

You talk about cloud control? Send in the cloud!

That happens over at cocoontech all the time. Lately it has started to happen occasionally here too. You select a word and hit backspace and the whole post is empty.

Not a problem!. That's what the forum is for and most enjoy helping, even Paul, as he has nothing else to do in his prison cell..

If mfranzel is not electrically oriented, at all, I would recommend he get an electrician to do this. Even clamping on a CT to a conductor in a panel full of live connections. I wouldn't recommend he even open the cover himself. Even as experienced workers in this field, doing it every day for decades, we never opened a live panel without insulated gloves and flash glasses, Too many of my co-workers created flashes opening old panels with breakers and wiring falling apart.

Welcome! Yeah what Paul stated above, but don't forget that jumper 5, in the back of the MS, sets remote setting control via software, or else only the MS hardware, inside, can affect settings.

For more mechanical ease of construction you can use the extra wire in the other hot conductor to wrap around your electromagnet also. You just need to wrap that wire around the opposite direction of the first wire. This will take up some slack created by the first wire and increase the sensitivity of the loop count. We are still playing with unapproved electrical wiring devices so some electrical knowledge and safety situational thinking is required to make this work and keep things safe.

Yes, when you run the browser access for the first time it loads the Administration Console java applet onto your desktop for you convenient usage next time. When java updates sometimes, or whenever you upgrade your ISY firmware version the java applet has to match the version of the f/w. Trouble is java like to hang onto everything and use the existing stuff. This causes problems with ISY. If you run Windows, go into the Control Panel and looks for the java icon. Under the first tab "General" at the bottom there is a button "Settings" that has the clearing of java junk on the pop-up box. Look for the "Delete FIles". Check all boxes for a clean slate.

Try clearing the java cache completely and reloading the ISY UI. I don't see what this would do but if java updated on you it could destroy the current setup. Report back so people know your situation.

Sorry. I wasn't attempting to imply that you proposed it, but rather that it would violate the warranty etc.. My bad, for shortcutting the wording there. I have edited that to clarify.

I have several old dryer motors that I have used for venting and miscellaneous bench woodworking tools. They are all 120vac motors despite coming out of 240vac dryers over the years. The timers are also 120vac synchronous motors, as well as the lamps in the drums. There were no 240:120v step-down transformers in any dryer I have taken apart.

I have a 120vac gas dryer so do not have your problem. If I had a 240vac dryer my method would be (as Apostolakisl stated as a warranty/safety voiding operation) to open up the dryer, find the motor 120vac leads and install a 120vac standard receptacle, if there is not already one there, put a plug on the motor leads and plug it into an Insteon SynchroLinc. This would detect anytime the motor is running but not the drum lamp or timer etc... I can detect the drum lamp to detect when the door is left open too long but that wouldn't be as easy to catch with the mentioned technique. Blocking the dryer vent with a mechanism may be a problem but seems like a clean method if you are not electrical but mechanically inclined. Don't try this with a gas dryer as you could CO2 poison the occupants. Edit: Apostolakisl statement clarification. Appeared opposite of intention.

Was there a particular reason to check if the lamp was off before dimming it? You could just take the line out.

Welcome! You can do this by direct coomunications between MS units and lamp devices. It is fast and you can control the brightness by predetermining it before the MS sees motion. It can get complicated for newbies but the forum is here and many can help you if you feel adventurous. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16056-motion-sensor-speed/?hl=%2Bdirect+%2Bscene&do=findComment&comment=138658

I experimented for a few months with HS2 using an Insteon Hub and found some of the logical constructs missing.` I switched to ISY about two years ago and felt much better about a smaller energy usage machine that didn't threaten to fail constantly with old moving mechanism parts and a way over complicated OS than needed just to do a controller job. In the end ISY feels more reliable, professional and user friendly, while HS2 felt more like a hack project out of somebody's basement with promises of doing everything. ISY has no virus software written for it that I have heard of. Larger OS systems abound with virii threats.

I have four LS units and none have failed yet in the last or so I got my first one. Insteon device are very reliable once you get over the initial quality assurance phase (month or so) What does fail is programming that is not fully tested. I think we are all guilty of that occasionally. Even when tested there is some sneak thing that can happen down the road that you never thought of but... consider what would happen if you didn't install the LS in the first place. I have been lucky with only a few leaks that wet my basement and the floor in the laundry room. I can write programs to protect things fairly reliably now and trust myself but it's the little side effects that get caused, like resetting the alarm system I wrote for it, not being able to reset the alarms, reset the water back on, alarm lights getting stuck on etc.. etc.. Those things become harder to test. Time will heal this after real life events but you can be far away and be embarrassed when your house lights all flash for an hour and the neighbours come with guns.

You can't use a Status to detect a LS heartbeat. It may never change and status only detects change in status. Here's what happens On...On...On....On....On.... Do you ever see an Off? Then the status would never change. Use "control", as it detects the command whether the status changes or not. Also put the "OR....is switched Off" back into the If section. Some LS produce both alternating so "On" only comes every 48 hours. Also put the 25 hour Wait back in or the detection system doesn't work at all. Go back and re-read the programs. Think of status as how the device was left, control/switch as the command that changes things whether they change or not.

Just worked in that field for 34 years. I don't know where this would be publicly revealed but IIRC Ontario Hydro established the averages for accounting purposes based on their few million units. The mechanical units were put out for 12 years and then about 5-10% sampled and the group left out for another 2,4,6 or 8 years before another sample was done. Short of newer and cheaper metals for the gears nothing ever went wrong with such a simple device. The CPU based units are put out for 6, or 8 years and brought in 100% due to lack of reliability. Much of the short lifespan is due to technology obsolescence so far as things are really changing in that field. A lot of this was due to the offering of proprietary radio systems that utilities jumped into before de facto standards were established. Surges take their toll and CPUs can make readings jump at any digit in the reading, go backwards, blank, or display garbage. We can thank our thoughtless politicians for costing us billions of dollars to throw non-recyclable meters in the garbage, in Ontario, over a two year period, just to raise the cost of energy. I sat face to face with the one responsible, here, and felt like kicking him where it hurts.. grrrr..... Politician shouldn't be involved in decisions. An electronic meter with a CPU and a digital radio with all the bells and whistles that sells for $22-$28 is bound to have problems. hmmmm... that may have been $18 the last time I heard. http://www.emfwise.com/smartmeters.php This article states 12-15 years and 50 years for mechanical types but from Ontario Hydro surveys those figures are too high. Heck, I spent my first dozen years (late 70s) working with GE I-30A meters. The number tells the first year released.

Or double or triple or half the frequency. Even two frequencies generate a mix of the sum and difference between frequencies as a side effect (beat frequency), so again.... who knows? This radio metering stuff is all new to utilities so I am sure if you explained your problem they would accommodate you to investigate. These electronic meters only last 10 years at best instead of the 32 year average for the old mechanical ones.If there is a problem the utility want to know about it before they buy another 100,000 units.

If it really comes down to the last straw....call your utility and ask them to pull the meter for a few minutes while you run some tests with your system. You may get better response by flagging down a truck on the street or making up a story about your meter making a strange noise. LOL Have your tests ready before they get there Who knows? The meter could have a radio out of spec or crashing.

Yup " Bought this one to use to get data from the basement, need to control the temp and humidity down there." In his case as long as the basement door stays closed and the heater isn't too large than not too many negatives can happen with a suck on heater. I saw too many bad-meter complaints in my carreer from 1500 watt heaters, the kids left on in the basement sound room, when they went off to college last September. "But the main furnace gas bill for the winter was real low for some reason." Yeah "the heater is only a little one" but at 1500watts x 24hours x 31days x $0.20/kWh = $223.20 extra for the month. YMMV Not the end of the world, if your Insteon comm fails, and the unmonitored heater sticks on, in an open space.