oberkc

. Yes, it is required in order to turn the light off at 735. It sounds, in your case, that you may have had a program with a condition including the switch status rather than just time. A lot of folks seem to use (overruse, in my mind) the following construct: If Time is from 0600 To 0900 And status light is not on. <<< this is the extra line I often question Then Set light on Else Set light off A program such as this could cause problems that you describe.

"offline"? Please elaborate. Last I checked, fanlink was not supported. You will have to wait a bit longer for this.

One does not actually type the commands...they are created for you when you create a new program and use the choices and options provided. No, you need not set it to run. Have you checked out the user manual? The wiki?

I don't know whether this will help with the broader question of helping understand the terminology, but try: If Time is from 0645am To 0735am Then Set family room light on Else Set family room light off Code verbage is approximate, but I hope this communicates the program logic.

The Linking order you describe is backwards...first put the isy into linking mode. Then put the rsponder device into linking mode. Hopefully, your device will now show up.

Alternatively, you could create a program folder, with condition: Program C1 status is true Then run the programs in this folder In the folder, put a program such as: If Time is Sunset Then Set 'Entry Light On' Set Living room.....etc Else -No Actions-

You may check out the wiki: http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Tools_Menu I suspect that this feature is not the most used of the ISY tools.

Probably not, but it will be solved soon. We waited years for the fanlinc, itself. A few more weeks or months is not gonna kill us.

I dont use smartlinc, but.... i understand that the smartlink has no, or very limited, conditional logic built in. Also, I would expect limited integration with other systems, such as weather, security, etc... I am sure there are other differences that I am missing

Not too difficult. You will enjoy it.

It seems to me that the answer to this would be based partly on the level of "access" that one desires. For example, there is some level of access using the default browser. There is also some level of "access" using the apps "conductor" and "mobilinc".

Which is the reason that I suspect that the wiring is other than how described. An alternative possibility is that I misunderstand your description. i suspect LeeG has correctly identified the problem. The white wire is a return from the other three-way switch and is not a neutral. This makes me suspect that the WB and gray supply the entry hall light fixtures. To be more certain (at least in my mind) would require a volt meter and opening of the fixture boxes to confirm routing of wires. On your three way switch, is there a black screw (indicates common). Which wire is connected to that? Are you stating that the neutral wire is connected to the single pole switch somehow? In addition to the blue and purple wire?

I agree with LeeG. I suspect some of the wires are other than you describe. Otherwise, blue wire (line) would go to insteon black, purple (load) would go to insteon red, white/gray bundle (neutral) would go to insteon white and all would work.

For what it is worth, I suspect you do have a loop. In your conditions, you have a condiotion for staircase status. In your then and else statements, you fade down the stairase lights. This forces a re-evaluation of your program.

I have not been bollowing too close, but I recal. That you manually added the newly reconfigured. Is this correct. i have never understanded the advantage of doing it this way, and have read of ocaasional problems. If you are out of ideas, I suggest removing the device, performing a factory reset, and adding it back using the "start linking" button. perhaps things would work better.

First, it seems to me that this program should partly work. The fact that your lihgt does not come on is, in my estimation, not. Program problem. Having said this, I would use control rather than status. Can you control the front bedroom light from the isy? Does the monkey light status track accurately in the isy?

How did you enable the internet access? From the admin panel? I understand that this can not work at times. You may need to enter your router settings an manually configure port forwarding rules. The best luck I had was after taking the time to do this.

Forgive me if I am pointing out the obvious, but swapping face plates is not sufficient (or even necessary) to re-configure a six-button keypad to eight-button, or vice versa. More importanly, there is an electronic configuration process. This electronic process is (at least was when I performed it) defined in the keypad users manual. This process entailed pressing a bunch of buttons in a certain order, if I recall. I also believe that this MUST be done manually, since I do not think that this can be performed via the ISY. In summary, one must remove the keypad from the ISY. Electronically reconfigure the keypad (it seems to me a factory reset would be appropriate here). Change the face plate (optional). Add new device back into ISY.This worked beautifully for me when I did this a while back.

I use the eagle eye sensors. I understand that the primary address is used for motion "on" and "off" commands, the next higher address is used for dusk/dawn, and never the two shall mix. Nothing in my experience suggests otherwise. I can only assume that other brands and models are the same.

Yes. That is how I do it. I cannot say that I have specifically noticed this, but I have not looked very hard. Like you, I get intermittent response from X-10 motion sensors, but it is often battery issues. Also, my distance between sensor and reciever is pretty great. I have not tried the delay suggested by BrianH, but that may be useful.

Keep in mind, also, that the "else" clause will run when the keypadlinc button is pressed ON during the daylight period.

Is this a mechanical (non-insteon) dimmer? If so, there is little that can be done to have miswired this as a result of switch replacement in the bathroom. Given that it is ON, I suspect switch failure. Possibly. It is also possibly a communication issue caused by other factors. Insteon communications, in my experience, do not fail catastrophically. Sometimes, communication can be intermittent. Given your existence of surge suppressors, I would not take lack of evidence thus far as signs of robust communication. I would experiment around a bit, temporarily removing these devices to see if there is any improvement. I would also take advantage of the ISY scene test to see if this gives any indication of problems. It is also good that you have a variety of access points and dual band devices. Given the quantity you have, odds are that you have at least one on each leg of your electrical system. Still, if you have not done so, I would make sure this is the case by following the steps in the manual.

This is a pretty simple wiring problem, and it sounds as if you have it all correct. I am assuming that all connections are tight (not always as easy as it sounds), The only possibility that I can think of is the type of light that is in your bathroom. Is it something other than incandescent? Does it have any power supplie? I am still hoping for an answer to my question regarding access points or dual-band devices. Do you have the legs of your power system coupled? Where is your PLM installed and what other devices (UPS? Surge Suppressor, power supplies?) are on that circuit?

Yes, this is the way I see it. Agreed, this would not explain lack of control. Are you confident in the connection? What is the load on the insteon switch? Do you have access points or other dual band devices to couple the legs of your electrical system? From where are you trying to control the insteon switch?

Notice how the white wire attached to the switch has some tape around it? I believe that is intended to remark the white wire as hot (switched, in this case). Regarding the two black wires connected to the switch, one is a supply, the other is a continutation of the supply to another location. I would expect that if you connect the two black to your switch black, the remarked white to the switch red, and switch white to the white bundle, you should be ready to go.