oberkc

Or, you could use the main button, set to 50% ON level, and double-tap for 100%. Theoretically, you could use the main button to toggle between the various avaliable fan speeds and reserve the four secondary buttons for light scenes or other purposes. Personally, I prefer separating big button and small buttons for common purposes...big for light, small for fan...or vice versa.

I agree with erick....do NOT manually create links between devices. Use , instead, scene relationships created via the ISY. Remember, also, that ramp rates and ON levels can be different for each controller/responder relationship. Though you may have checked the scene levels (PLM controller to switch responder), those levels could be different when one switch is controller of another. I wonder, too, if your manually-created links were done in such a way that the ON level was zero, thus giving the impression that it did not respond to a single tap of the controller switch. My recommendation is to remove the device completely from the ISY, them perform another factory reset, then add it back to the ISY, then recreate any scenes in the ISY. I would do this for all devices that have been involved in any manual linking processes.

oberkc did you mean a dedicated circuit ? do I need to move my modem and PLM , the modem is on my desk next to my computer and the PLM is on the same circuit as the computer, I could move both to the basement next to the panel and install a new circuit for them Yes, I meant dedicated circuit. I ran one specially for the ISY. Certainly you need to filter the modem, computer, UPS, etc that are on the same circuit as the PLM. The PLM is the heart and brain of the system. There is no need to risk communication to and from the PLM due to other devices on the circuit. My perceptions are that there are a couple of common causes of poor insteon performance: failure to couple legs of your electrical system, and plugging in the PLM to the same outlet and circuit as your computer stuff without filters.

None of the icons show status...they are static icons. I use those that come standard with tasker.

1. PLM on isolated circuit 2. Access points confirmed coupling phases 3. Filters where needed.

I use tasker widgets in to trigger (via mobilinc) programs and scenes. I want one-button control of key devices. This includes opening of garage doors, turning the house off, guest enable, things like that. I did not want to open an app and navigate to those key devices, then choose an action. The tasker widget works great for this. In some cases (where specific action is not known ahead), I use mobilinc widgets.

Your requirements: If one presses a button, then turn something on once, when it is 6:30am. Correct? If status button C is ON and time is 6:30am then turn something on set button C off else nothing I think you came very close with your attempt. Try "STATUS" rather than "CONTROL" for your towel warmer button.

I will likely be helpful if your description includes: - number of cables coming into each of the two boxes - number and color of conductors in each cable - what fixture or loads each is intended to control

While I don't do this for a living (as apparently does Teken), my perceptions from reading forums like this are similar. I perceive many who jump in without giving adequate thought to WHAT they are trying to accomplish. Ready, fire, aim. While I think many accurately assume that there is benefit in home automation, the real payoff comes through thought and planning. I am also an advocate of starting small: simple timers and a couple of scenes. Play around and learn. Experiment. Go slow. I would add, too, that I suspect many jump in based purely on the perception that it would be really cool to turn on lights from a cell phone. While this may be true, the cool factor will quickly wear off leaving one with a lot of money gone and little long-term benefit. To me, the real benefit is having the right lights on and off at the right time and the right event...automatically. I find my house much more pleasant and enjoyable waking to a house with the right lights on without intervention on my part, or being sure doors are closed and locked without having to run downstairs to check, or being able to flood the exterior with light when one hears a bump in the night, or coming home and having the house greet you with lighting.

I think I might tweak the program from MFBra a bit, and eliminate program 2 Program 1 If control Motion was on (MS transmits an ON command) and status door is closed then Repeat x times Set Desired light On Wait x seconds Set same ligh off Wait x seconds I don't know how sensitive are your motion sensors, or how many false alarms you get, but there may be some value in further limiting the flashing based on time of day (not middle of night) or while away from home.

IN addition to stusviews comments, note, also, that turning either of these switches on during the 40 sec timer will halt the timer. I assume that this is as you wish. My gut feel is that the program is fine, and that any "erratice" behaviour is the result of comms problems, but would need to no more specifics about what is or is not happening that you expect to happen or not to happen.

I don't know what apple functionality is in the hub, but don't believe the ISY has any direct support for apple home kit, if that is what you are asking. Otherwise, the hub appears to be a basic insteon controller that can handle some simple timer functions. The ISY, by comparison, can manage your links and scenes and has conditional programming that is mostly limited to your imagination. There are also some very powerful add-ons if you are capable of exploiting, such as the z-wave module, the Elk module, and the network module that provides an integration ability with a much broader variety of devices than available on the hub.

Your description of the problem sounds most likely a wiring problem. Having a wire connected to the white switch wire I not necessarily the same thing as having a neutral connection. I would no rely on recollection. Do you have the skills to identify a neutral beyond relying on color? White is not always neutral in standard three way wiring.

Yes, you could do all those things. Unfortunately, if the remotelinc is the root cause, then using a program versus scene may not solve your problem. The Email idea is an interesting troubleshooting idea, but reviewing the logs should tell you the same thing.

Interestingly, I rarely touch my system, except when adding new devices. Mine is pretty much maintenance free.

Thrilled with mine. Will never go back.

When in the admin console, within the scene, click on controller switch 2. What is the responder level for switch 1? Is it zero? Does it have a long ramp rate? I would assume the same thing. Your scene sounds correct to me, so the only thing I can think of is that there may be a program ou there somewhere that is triggered from button B?

Based upon my experience, I believe this will require a program to accomplish. Something like : If Status kpl button is on Then Unlock door Else Lock door

I am not sure I understand the intentions here. One can turn a scene on or off at certain time, but I don't understand the meaning of "running" a scene over a time period. And, what do you want to happen, and when, if sunrise is between 630 and 730 rather than before or after?

Yes, I misunderstood. Thanks for clearing that up.

What remains unclear to me is why the factory reset of the switch did not clear the x10 address

Is it possible that this keypad began life as a six-button version and later converted to eight? (When one factory resets a six button keypad that was converted to eight, it reverts back to six.)

It may be a technicality, but a scene cannot simultaneously turn ON some lights and turn OFF others. While it may be possible to set responder levels to zero, those devices are, technically, ON. Remember, responder levels can be set differently for a given controller of a given scene. Even if the scene level is zero, make sure that the responder levels are zero when triggered by the BEDTIME button. They CAN be different levels.

I believe you understand correctly. Your scene should include, simply, the two motion sensors and target switch. If other insteon devices hear the commands from the motion sensor, they should repeat them without including them in the scenes. That your two switches actually showed opposite "circuits" (I expect, instead, this should be considered opposite legs of your electrical system) is an indication that these two switches are, in fact, communicating. Now comes the fun part of trying to identify why the communication is failing, then. There are not many tricks that I can offer other than brute force. Identify the circuits that include the two switches and what other electrical load are on those two circuits. Do you have a lot of CFLs or LEDs? Home theater stuff? Computer stuff? Unplug or unscrew those loads, where possible. Does this help? Open the event viewer window and set to level 3. Activate the motion sensor somehow, and observe the event viewer. Past the results here. Some around here are pretty good at reading these things, but I tend to look for the lines with "hops remaining". If this is 0, that is not a good sign. There is a scene test available that can help quantify communications among the included devices. Unfortunately, this is not a big help in troubleshooting...identifying any offending devices. You may also perform a "show links" for a given device, and then "compare" to the ISY records. Sometimes, link records on devices can get corrupted. "Restoring" a device can, more often than not, correct errors in link records. If all else fails, sometimes one can simply remove devices from the ISY, factory reset those devices, then re-add and recreate the scenes. Sometimes that is all that it takes.

All insteon devices will relay and repeat commands. This is built into insteon. No special settings or links required. Perhaps there is a different question to ask....why is the middle switch (which IS in range of the motion sensor) not able to communicate with the target switch. A couple of things might be important to know: which models of switches (are they dual-band) do you have? Have you performed the phase bridge (aka beacon, 4-tap) test? Are the two switches on the same circuit? What else is plugged into that circuit?