oberkc

that is the way I see it, as well

Well, the fact that your camera continues to be accessible from remote locations suggests something other than the IP, it is still worth checking. There are several ways to check, including from your router and from a command prompt, but it is simple enough to go to: https://www.whatismyip.com/ and select the appropriate options. Once you have your current IP address, confirm that is still the same. If not, I am sure there are other possibilities that can go wrong.

Do you have a static IP address? Is it possible your WAN IP address has changed? Sometimes, internet service providers can assign new IP addresses to your location.

How many programs do you think might be running simultaneously? Your second program might be a better solution if this were truly a problem, but I doubt that you will notice any difference.I have never perceived this to be a problem.

I don't see a way to do this in a single program, but this assumes I have accurately recognized WHAT you are trying to do from your programs. If your current programs do what you want, the benefits of alternative methods will be mostly in the mind. I doubt that there will be a perceptible functional benefit. I am curious...what do you want those variables to become if either of those conditions are false?

I looked into this a while back. My recollection was that there was (at one point) a homelink "base station" which received the RF signal, then sent X-10 commands to responder modules. Another recollection was homelink kits in cars can be trained to transmit X-10 signals, if one has an X-10 RF remote. If true, then train the car to send an X-10 signal to an X-10 transciever, and trigger actions from that via ISY. To be fair, I never did confirm this first hand (at the time, did not have a car with this capability) but it sure seemed intriguing. Now that I have cars with this, I should look into these kinds of options again.

Rarely is there consensus, because there are usall many ways of solving a given problem. Everybody has personal preferences (mine are to minimize numbers of programs and use variables only as last resort.) Report back when you return and we can continue this discussion. There is a solution, so long that your requirements are fully understood.

I dont expect this to affect other devices on your network, unless you are trying to reservean address already taken by one of those devices.

It looks to me as if you have gotten good advice from others and several options to consider. The only thing I care to add is to encourage thinking, just as you have been, about the details of WHAT you are trying to accomplish, rather than HOW, rather than jump jumping straight in with coding. Continue to consider the boundary issues...what do you want to happen when you transition from home>>>vacation>>>home during those from/to times. I find, often, that fully defining what you want to happen will result in the logic and coding taking care of itself, or at least pointing to an approach. I definitely like the idea of folders for home and away. I also tend to like apostolaksl's approach, where one could do something like: if home then run away programs (else path) run home programs (if path) else run home programs (else path) run away program (if path)

Great question. As you recognized, nothing would turn the lights off. The question I had, when contemplating this problem, was whether you WANTED the lights to turn off after arriving home, or whether you had other programs that ran during times when you were home. I had, unfortunately, assume the latter. There are, however, solutions if you still want the ELSE path to run, whether home or away.

Or when there is a smarthome sale that I just cannot resist. I have two new outletlincs just waiting for a purpose in life. Hopefully, I can think of one.

I would probably take a slightly different approach, assuming I understand what you want. first program: If $s.Home.Away is 1 then enable second program else disable second program second program If From Sunset To 2:00:00AM (next day) Or From 5:00:00AM To Sunrise (same day) Then Wait 15 seconds Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast On Set 'Driveway CFLs Secondary' Fast On Set 'Front CFL Floods' Fast On Set 'Landscape Lights' Fast On Wait 15 seconds Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast On Set 'Driveway CFLs Secondary' Fast On Set 'Front CFL Floods' Fast On Set 'Landscape Lights' Fast On Send Notification to 'My e-mail' content 'Vaca Lights on' Else Wait 15 seconds Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast Off Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast Off Set 'Front CFL Floods' Fast Off Set 'Landscape Lights' Fast Off Wait 15 seconds Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast Off Set 'Driveway CFLs Primary' Fast Off Set 'Front CFL Floods' Fast Off Set 'Landscape Lights' Fast Off Send Notification to 'My e-mail' content 'Vaca Lights off'

Make sure sensor is connected to GND and sense, not relay. What happens to sensor light if you disconnect those two wires? Does this change if you short these two connections with a jumper wire? I don't believe sensor is affected by momentary mode...only relay.

Or, you could use the main button, set to 50% ON level, and double-tap for 100%. Theoretically, you could use the main button to toggle between the various avaliable fan speeds and reserve the four secondary buttons for light scenes or other purposes. Personally, I prefer separating big button and small buttons for common purposes...big for light, small for fan...or vice versa.

I agree with erick....do NOT manually create links between devices. Use , instead, scene relationships created via the ISY. Remember, also, that ramp rates and ON levels can be different for each controller/responder relationship. Though you may have checked the scene levels (PLM controller to switch responder), those levels could be different when one switch is controller of another. I wonder, too, if your manually-created links were done in such a way that the ON level was zero, thus giving the impression that it did not respond to a single tap of the controller switch. My recommendation is to remove the device completely from the ISY, them perform another factory reset, then add it back to the ISY, then recreate any scenes in the ISY. I would do this for all devices that have been involved in any manual linking processes.

oberkc did you mean a dedicated circuit ? do I need to move my modem and PLM , the modem is on my desk next to my computer and the PLM is on the same circuit as the computer, I could move both to the basement next to the panel and install a new circuit for them Yes, I meant dedicated circuit. I ran one specially for the ISY. Certainly you need to filter the modem, computer, UPS, etc that are on the same circuit as the PLM. The PLM is the heart and brain of the system. There is no need to risk communication to and from the PLM due to other devices on the circuit. My perceptions are that there are a couple of common causes of poor insteon performance: failure to couple legs of your electrical system, and plugging in the PLM to the same outlet and circuit as your computer stuff without filters.

None of the icons show status...they are static icons. I use those that come standard with tasker.

1. PLM on isolated circuit 2. Access points confirmed coupling phases 3. Filters where needed.

I use tasker widgets in to trigger (via mobilinc) programs and scenes. I want one-button control of key devices. This includes opening of garage doors, turning the house off, guest enable, things like that. I did not want to open an app and navigate to those key devices, then choose an action. The tasker widget works great for this. In some cases (where specific action is not known ahead), I use mobilinc widgets.

Your requirements: If one presses a button, then turn something on once, when it is 6:30am. Correct? If status button C is ON and time is 6:30am then turn something on set button C off else nothing I think you came very close with your attempt. Try "STATUS" rather than "CONTROL" for your towel warmer button.

I will likely be helpful if your description includes: - number of cables coming into each of the two boxes - number and color of conductors in each cable - what fixture or loads each is intended to control

While I don't do this for a living (as apparently does Teken), my perceptions from reading forums like this are similar. I perceive many who jump in without giving adequate thought to WHAT they are trying to accomplish. Ready, fire, aim. While I think many accurately assume that there is benefit in home automation, the real payoff comes through thought and planning. I am also an advocate of starting small: simple timers and a couple of scenes. Play around and learn. Experiment. Go slow. I would add, too, that I suspect many jump in based purely on the perception that it would be really cool to turn on lights from a cell phone. While this may be true, the cool factor will quickly wear off leaving one with a lot of money gone and little long-term benefit. To me, the real benefit is having the right lights on and off at the right time and the right event...automatically. I find my house much more pleasant and enjoyable waking to a house with the right lights on without intervention on my part, or being sure doors are closed and locked without having to run downstairs to check, or being able to flood the exterior with light when one hears a bump in the night, or coming home and having the house greet you with lighting.

I think I might tweak the program from MFBra a bit, and eliminate program 2 Program 1 If control Motion was on (MS transmits an ON command) and status door is closed then Repeat x times Set Desired light On Wait x seconds Set same ligh off Wait x seconds I don't know how sensitive are your motion sensors, or how many false alarms you get, but there may be some value in further limiting the flashing based on time of day (not middle of night) or while away from home.

IN addition to stusviews comments, note, also, that turning either of these switches on during the 40 sec timer will halt the timer. I assume that this is as you wish. My gut feel is that the program is fine, and that any "erratice" behaviour is the result of comms problems, but would need to no more specifics about what is or is not happening that you expect to happen or not to happen.

I don't know what apple functionality is in the hub, but don't believe the ISY has any direct support for apple home kit, if that is what you are asking. Otherwise, the hub appears to be a basic insteon controller that can handle some simple timer functions. The ISY, by comparison, can manage your links and scenes and has conditional programming that is mostly limited to your imagination. There are also some very powerful add-ons if you are capable of exploiting, such as the z-wave module, the Elk module, and the network module that provides an integration ability with a much broader variety of devices than available on the hub.