edokid

Great thanks so much, I knew it was something simple

I had an IF statement saying if the time is from 12am to 11:59pm, but wasn't sure if that did anything as under "next run time" it would show 11:59pm. Here's the program right now: https://imgur.com/a/FEtWO

I haven't used my ISY in awhile and now my mind is blank on how to do this. I have a program that says under "Then" to query all z-Wave devices, then ends with "Repeat every 1 minute." I used to have this working before I erased all my programs but confused now. I have it set to run at start up but it doesn't seem like it actually is looping as it just shows last run time being when the ISY rebooted. Do I need something in the IF? I know I'm missing something obvious as this was easy in the past. Thanks!!

I have a few scenes with multiple lights, that all have a KPL button as the controller. These scenes also include Hue lights, so using a Network Resource I have a program that says "if KPL A is pressed on, then run this network resource" and so on. The problem is when I use Alexa to run scenes, the Hue lights of course don't come on since the KPL didn't trigger it. All the other lights do work, but just wondering how I can have this work. Was thinking I guess make a program with the same name as the scene, then add the program to Alexa, with "Then" running the Insteon scene and doing the Hue stuff, but wanted to see first if I can trigger if from Alexa running the scene. Thanks.

Have you checked your device link tables and compared them to your ISY link tables? - No that's what I was posting here, I don't know how to check that. My system was set up from scratch yesterday morning, everything is new. Have you tried a factory reset on your devices and then restored them from ISY? - I really don't think I should have to do that? I just bought all of this yesterday and set everything up. If the system is so buggy that devices will fail and require they all be factory reset less than 24 hours after being set up, then I feel like this might be going back in the box as I don't have that much time available to reset all the devices. Either way it is working now, as mentioned you can't just select with the slider 100% for on level, or 0.2 for ramp rate, you have to click over and over and let it slowly change it. Still not clear why it keeps changing though. The kitchen lights still don't work, the ISY I will press Off, it says they are off, but they aren't. You query them and it shows 80%, query it a few seconds later and it says 70%, so it's slowly dimming off, even though the ISY says the ramp rate is 0.2.

One quick update, it seems to be working. I'm still not clear why the ramp rate changed in the first place though, but the problem is you can't just drag the slider to 100% to set it there, that doesn't work. You basically have to keep clicking in the upper area of the slider, to slowly increase it, so that it goes 20%, 40%, 60% etc. When dragging direct to 100% the ISY does absolutely nothing, but if you click in between the 0% and 100% multiple times, the ISY responds and shows "writing updates to device" over and over and then it sticks.

I'm also trying to set the on level to 100% on the Switchlinc itself since the ISY just keeps ignoring whatever I tell it to set it at but the instructions in the Switchlinc manual don't even work. They say: 1) Press and hold SwitchLinc Set button until it beeps SwitchLinc status LED will blink green 2) Press and hold SwitchLinc Set button until it beeps again SwitchLinc status LED will blink red 3) Press and hold SwitchLinc Set button until it beeps a third time SwitchLinc status LED will blink green 4) Press and hold SwitchLinc Set button until That doesn't even happen. You hold set once, it flashes green, hold it a second time it flashes red, but on step 3 where it says hold it a 3rd time, it doesn't turn green it just beeps and turns off. Then when you press and hold it a 4th time it just beeps twice and turns off.

Controlling the lights from the ISY is the same thing, like the kitchen light shows 0.2 as ramp rate, but it takes about 10 seconds to turn on. And by 10 seconds I don't mean delay, I mean it gradually dims until off over a 10 second period, same with on. If I use the admin console to turn them on and off it's the same thing, although it actually seems worse. For example all the lights show 9 minute ramp rate, and on level (applied locally) as 0. Turning on and off from the admin console just doesn't work anymore, only fast on and fast off. If I set the on level to 100%, it still doesn't work. I go try another device, come back and it shows 0 for on level and 9 minutes for ramp rate. As soon as I change to any other device it resets to 0 on level, 9 minute ramp. Every single light, and it never did this until I added the ISY portal with Alexa. The on level seems to stick a bit more, but the ramp rate always changes to 9 minutes. Again I'm not setting anything to 9 minutes, I'm setting it to 0.1 or 0.2, but as soon as you switch to another device and come back, or quit the admin portal and go back, it's right back to 9 minute ramp rate. Just one thing to add, on the cabinet lights for example I have ramp rate at 0.2 and on level at 100%. When I press ON in the admin console, it says "On" for device status, but the light is NOT actually on. After 10 seconds or so though you see it start to come on, as it's doing the super long ramp rate. So basically the admin console isn't actually doing anything I'm telling it to. I set the on level to 100% and ramp rate to 0.1, switch to another device, go back, and the ISY shows it as on level 0% and ramp rate 9 minutes.

I've had no issues with anything turning on or off properly until today. I bought the ISY portal and then added Alexa. I added some lights and scenes and it all worked fine, I'd say Alexa turn on the kitchen light and she would etc. I then just added my ISY account to my Google Home, but as soon as I said turn the kitchen light off, it seemed like it wasn't working but then I realized it was actually doing it slowly over about a 10 second period. When I'd try with the Alexa she was the same. In the ISY admin console it shows all lights have a 9 minute ramp rate now. So I changed them all back to 0.1, but when I'd say Alexa or Google turn on the kitchen light, it would again be 10 seconds or so, and the admin console would show every single light back at 9 minutes for ramp rate. I don't get it, as 1) it says 9 minutes but is more like 10 seconds, 2) I keep setting it to 0.1 or 0.2 seconds but it keeps reverting, 3) I don't even see how you can set ramp rate from Google or Alexa. Is there a log or some way to see what keeps changing the ramp rate? I just started using the ISY yesterday so I literally have no programs or anything that could be adjusting the ramp rate on its own. Second issue, if I have the kitchen light on at 20%, and I turn it off, if I tell Alexa to turn the kitchen light on, it goes back to 20%, and I have to say "turn it on to 100%." Is it not possible to have "turn on" mean to 100%?

Just wondering is the single button remote a rocker, like an actual switch? Or is it just a large button? Curious if it feels like a normal light switch or if it feels cheaper? Also how do people mount these or other Remotelinc's in an existing wall box? I'm ditching Lutron Caseta but have a ton of Pico remotes mounted over actual wall boxes that aren't in use (we have tons that are connected to wall outlets that I've permanently wired on, but put a Pico over top for 3 way and so on.) I used Insteon years ago but I seem to remember the wall mounting kit being just to mount on a wall not a light box (and it wasn't very good quality either compared to the Lutron ones). Or do most people just use a SwitchLinc wired to no load as an expensive 3 way switch? Thanks! Quick edit, by cheaper above I mean compared to the Pico remotes I always found the 4 button Remotelinc to feel cheaper, like it's hollow or lesser quality, where the Pico when mounted on the wall feels exactly like a Caseta dimmer to the point you forget which is the actual wired in switch.

Not looking to get this at all but was reading about Crestron and saw a lot of DIN rails in the configs then saw Insteon has them also. I've read the descriptions from Insteon for it but still can't wrap my head around what it does or why you would use it. If every light switch in my home right now is either a SwitchLinc or KeyPadLinc, what does the DIN add as value and why would someone use one?

Downstairs is where the power is. Trust me there were no tags on anything, the "black" wires were practically white from when they come in and basically spray paint the whole place when they build a new house. It's like they did the electrical first and then the painters came in after, so all the wires in the boxes are covered in white spray primer. I gave up and just installed a Lutron Caseta switch with Pico remote and it's working perfectly now.

Actually that is how it is right now, all whites are bundled together, but when you go upstairs that white does not act as a neutral. As soon as you unbundle the white from the black upstairs the light turns off. The white and black upstairs need to be connected otherwise light is dead. I think I might call it on this one and just go back to using a normal 3-way as it's getting that if I ever want to put this back I'll have no idea what I did should I not want to keep using Insteon. Or might just swap it for a Lutron Caseta which I have a spare one for, as they don't require a neutral.

K I'll try that now, why doesn't the 2-wire switchlinc work though, it doesn't require a neutral but doesn't work at all.

Well apostolakisl's post above says white must always be neutral otherwise it's a code violation so that's where the 1% of uncertainty comes from lol.

K I'm at a loss with this! Here's how the wires are: Downstairs the box has: - Hot black entering from the bottom to a wire nut which then went to the original switch - White line entering from the bottom to the big wire nut bundle of neutrals - White line coming from that neutral bundle leaving the box through the top of the switch - Red traveler leaving the box through the top, same line as the white neutral above which went to the original switch - Black line leaving the box through the top, part of the same cable as the red/white above, which goes to the red on the KPL This switch right now has the KPL with the white going to the neutral bundle, black to the black hot bundle coming in from the bottom, and then the red connected to the black line heading upstairs. The KPL works fine to turn the light on and off. As of right now I bundled the red traveler with the bundle of black hot wires from the first line above to bring a hot upstairs. Upstairs the box has: - The red traveler coming into it - The black line from downstairs - The white line from downstairs The original switch up here had all 3 connected to it. When I remove the switch, even with the KPL turned on downstairs the light up here is off. I have to bundle the white/black together and then the light comes on only when that circuit is connected. What I tried was bundling the red traveler with the black bundle of hot from downstairs to make that hot upstairs, and connected that to the black on the SwitchLinc upstairs and capped off the red line from the SwitchLinc. The black/white upstairs is capped together otherwise the light is always off. The Switchlinc does nothing and has no power, I assume because it needs a neutral. So I tried my 2-wire one but same thing zero power to the SwitchLinc. While leaving the power on I carefully tried connecting the SwitchLinc to pretty much every possible combo up there, nothing I do will make the SwitchLinc power up. Not sure if it's because I need a neutral, but the 2-wire SL doesn't work either.

Thanks again all, will try to post the setup soon haven't had a chance. I'm literally 99% sure that the white is not a neutral. My house is 9 years old we bought it built new from the builder, so any wiring in here was done by actual electricians and the builder. Literally every switch I've changed so far has the bundle of white neutrals tucked back inside, but this one here on the upstairs 100% does not have that. Just the red traveler, a black and a white, all 3 were connected to the original 3 way switch before I disconnected it. I have to pull off the downstairs KPL to check that wiring, was such a pain to get it all tucked in there that I dread removing it again but will soon!

Thanks I'll review this and try it after as I put it all back together and gave up and forget what is what! I have a power tester or whatever so it's easy to tell which line is which. I'm pretty sure the white one going to upstairs is not a neutral, as originally that was how I wired it, I had that connect to the neutral on the SwitchLinc and then the black to the black one, capped off the red traveller in the box, and capped off the red load on the SwitchLinc like I did on all the other 3-ways. That did work but when I'd turn the light off downstairs it would kill the SwitchLinc which makes me think the white is not a neutral. @apostolakisl I think your post will make more sense when I get back into the box but that's what I was actually wondering if that was the way, as with my Lutron Caseta lights that's how you do it, shown here Only question is would I have to use the 2 wire dimmer, as I'm pretty sure that white wire is not a neutral, as again if I remove the switch upstairs and want to turn the light on I bundle the black and white together and it comes on, where as that wouldn't happen if it was a neutral. It's 100% not a bundle of whites or anything, it's the first switch in my whole house I've seen without a bundle of white wires in it. I think the missing link was using the red traveler as I had it capped at both ends doing nothing, just because with the Caseta ones you use a Pico remote for the remote switch so you're not wiring into anything. @giesen your first post is what I did the first time but it didn't work, again because I think the white is not a neutral. Going to give it a try again tomorrow when no one is home as family is getting annoyed at me cutting the power non stop

Hi everyone, I have several 3-ways in my house I've already swapped for Insteon no problem. The one right now is kicking my *** though. Where the load is, there's the standard bundle of neutrals, the red traveler wire, and then the black wire. I installed a SwitchLinc here and it controls the light upstairs just fine. However when I go upstairs to the switch there, there's no neutral, it's just a white wire, black wire, and red traveler. I've tried every combo, I cannot get a SwitchLinc to work up there (not connected to the load, just to connect to the switch downstairs as a scene). The red and white must be connected together otherwise the light won't turn on at all. I've tried everything, even my 2-wire SwitchLinc and no combo of wires will make it work, the switch upstairs always has no power. I had it working at one point but as soon as you turn off the light downstairs it kills the switchlinc. Since there's no neutral I assume I have to use my 2-wire SwitchLinc but I can't figure out how to wire it, it never gets power. Do I have to use the red traveler in some capacity?

@jgorm: HomeSeer has a free included plugin for Insteon, it supports pretty much all devices, but it's limited in that you can't create scenes or view links etc. There's a 3rd party plugin for $59 USD which is far better, can do pretty much everything. I don't think there's any Insteon devices that aren't supported to be honest. I was actually the same, used the ISY at least a year before even discovering it has logs! I just hate Java, takes so much work to make it run on a new PC as it's always "Warning warning security issue do not use Java!" being screamed by Windows. With HomeSeer I can use my phone and immediately view logs at any time, something not possible on the ISY it seems which is unfortunate. @larrylix: That's not what I want, that's kind of useless to be honest. First day using HomeSeer I log in and it shows on the log at 1am my alarm was turned off, front door opened, kitchen light on, then turned off, door locked and alarm armed. I had no idea so checked my cameras and it was my neighbour running in to borrow butter, which he was allowed to do I just had no idea. The logs on HomeSeer I find give me huge insight into the house, I can see temperatures changing, alarm activity, Hue lights going on and off, programs running, etc and then can immediately filter by device, time and so on.

In the admin console I know you can export a log to Excel, but it's really clunky and needs a PC. I was messing with HomeSeer and love how you can just click Log and immediately see things like: Aug-17 1:50:27 PM Device Control Device: Insteon Master Bathroom Light to On (100) Aug-17 1:48:44 PM Event Event Trigger "Master Bathroom Motion Master Bath Motion On" Aug-17 1:19:56 PM Z-Wave Device: Z-Wave Z-Wave Front Foyer Light Set to OFF Aug-16 9:09:31 PM EnvisaLink INFO DSC Alarm status change: Armed Stay And so on, is there no easy way to view logs like this via the web or your phone with the ISY? I'm considering switching just because of how useful this has been, as I feel like with the ISY I'm always blind trying to figure out what's going on with devices!

Hey everyone, I have the IO Linc for the garage which has always worked fine, wired with the relay wires directly into the door button (the cord is too short to go right to the door opener like in the manual). This always worked fine, could use the door control manually or Insteon. I stopped using it months ago though because I wanted to get a new sensor that was NC so the KPL would light up when the door was open vs closed, but had given up and removed everything to just sell it. Long story short I have the NC sensor now and wanted to try again, so hooked it all back up, but no matter what I do now the physical door button gets disabled when I have the IOLinc wired into its 2 wires like before (I didn't even remove the wires before just cut them off to avoid having to unscrew the opener button from the wall). Doesn't matter if I flip them they always disable the button. Pressing Set on the IOLinc opens and closes the door, but for whatever reason the physical door button is always disabled. As soon as I remove the IOLinc relay wires, the garage door opener button LED lights up and it works as normal. Not sure what I'm doing differently here, never had this problem at all when I first got this. I've factory reset the IOLinc and what not, but any other suggestions as to what might cause this? It's just a 1 button, 2 wire door opener, it's not multi function or anything like that.

I was having major connectivity issues before so thought it was the PLM as I was told on here it indicated it was bad, so bought a new one. Turned out to be a bad LED bulb causing interference, so while cleaning last night I came across the other PLM that I forgot to return, oops! I have an ISY994 with Z-Wave, is there anything I can use the PLM for, like even just to bridge or extend the network or something? Just wasn't sure how I'd add it, if I'd add it as a new device like normal, or if that would cause problems and have it take over as PLM. Or is it better to just sell it and buy something more fun to play with like a SwitchLinc?

Thanks so much everyone that helps. And yes right now it does work but for whatever reason seeing a key on the panel lit up just draws your attention more as to something out of the ordinary. So I just naturally expect the button to be lit up when the door is open, indicating it wants my attention or whatever.

I have the Garage IOLinc kit but it's backwards if that makes sense. As in when the door is closed the ISY shows it as ON and when open it's Closed. Asked ages ago about this was told I can get a different door sensor, but can't remember if it's NC or NO that I need. I feel like NC since the garage door is normally closed but wanted to double check since have to special order one as Amazon doesn't seem to carry them here. Thanks!