Cormacs

Mine does the same. I live in a rural area and my power fails quite often and I use a 9000 watt generator for the essentials. I too noticed insteon dimmers flash when on back-up power, especially during the ramp up and ramp down. I never thought much of it because it isn't a huge issue the short time we are on back-up power. All my insteon equipment is new within the last two years.

I will go call my panel a liar. I'm don't arguing this topic you "think" you know so much about anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Larryllix beat me to it. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. The 40 amp circuit runs to an rv panel that has three breakers protected at lower amperages. All hard wired conduits and devices must be capable of carrying the load that the circuit protection above it may allow. Thats why yes your panel may be protected with a 200 amp breaker but there are lower rated breakers below it for the circuits that feed the house. This thread is starting to venture so far from the original topic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree. Wikipedia is good for reference only. Wiki is only as good as the person who contributed to it which can be almost anyone. When ever we dealt with panels it was always line 1, line 2, ect. When ever we dealt with the circuits after panel it was legs and neutral. That comes from real world experience not wiki. I may not be a licensed electrician but I spent 2 years in the trade under an electrician before switching trades. I did many new installations which included panel installations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We currently are running multi-phase power. Most house in our area running higher than 100 amp service runs multiple phases not just a split phase. I live in a rural farm area and my house was converted from an old general store/cheese factory. Most houses in this area were converted from other uses other than residential. Therefore most of them are still using the old multi-phase system. I worked with an electrician as an apprentice for 2 years and a leg was always used to refer to the hot side of a circuit. When ever we refered to the two lines of the phase it was always that a "line". I suppose the two splits in the phase going to the panel could be considered legs of the circuit running to the panel. But it wouldn't have been my first thought. Regardless we are getting off topic. I seem to have solved my issue. Using the light in question in a scene with multiple devices seems to be making it more stable. I thank everyone for all the suggestions and help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Call me crazy, but it seems like it works better if I use it in a scene of more devices. The only program that I seemed to have an issue with it was when it tried to turn it on with the scene that is just the light and it's kpl. I also have another scene that controls it called "outside lights". in that scene it has all my outside lights consisting of about 8 dual band devices. If I change my program to turn the outside lights scene on it seems to always work. When the program tries to turn just the post light scene on I get the odd time it doesn't come on. So I will keep it like that and see if it solves my problem.

I already have multiple dual band devices on both phases of the panel. I'm certain the problem is that not only does it have to travel 100 feet but it has to go through two load centres to reach the post light. I wish I could get another dual band device on the 40 amp leg before it leaves the house but insteon does not make any 40 amp devices. I will try changing my program as you suggested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is a single pole breaker. The rv doesn't run 220. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the insteon commands to get to the microdimmer that is having the issue it has to travel 100 feet away from the closest access point. The power gets to the microdimmer over 100 feet of 8 gauge wire that is protected by a 40 amp breaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I assumed in post 8 you saying to install a insteon device on the circuit in question. Meant placing the device on the 40 amp circuit as that is the circuit in question. Then when you explained that a 40 amp breaker doesn't push 40 amps it reinforced that thought in my head. Sorry for the confusion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Regardless of where it is attached to the leg it is still protected by a 40 amp breaker. The 12 gauge wire of the insteon device according to code is required to be no higher then a 20 amp breaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess I'll just leave it as is. The light only fails to react maybe once a week. I have a program that turns is off as I get home and one that turns it off when I leave. Otherwise I use the kpl to turn it on and off and I have never noticed it fail when using the kpl yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

According to electrical code the breaker must always be the weakest link in the leg with external non hard wired devices being the exception. If I were to hard wire the insteon device to the 40 amp breaker it would be the weak link. It is very unlikely the insteon device would fail in such away but it would still violate electrical code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I understand the fact the 40 amp breaker will not "push" 40 amp however the inline link modules only come with 12 gauge wire rated at 20 amps. If their was an internal failure causing a short the 40 amp breaker will not fail but the 12 gauge wire will fail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How would I accomplish this. Having the program control the device directly? Right now I have a scene for the post light because I have a kpl that controls it as well. The scene has the kpl controlling the microdimmer on the flood light. So if the program controlled the two devices separately instead of their scene would the isy keep trying until it succeeded? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

my only concern is an in-linelinc is rated for 20 amps, If I tie it into the 8 gauge wire on the 40 amp run it would be capable of receiving 40 amps. that would potentially cause a fire hazard. The 8 gauge wire runs from a 40 amp breaker in the main breakerbox of the house outside underground 100 feet away from the house to a rv breaker panel. On the RV breaker panel there is a 30 amp, 20 amp, and a 15 amp breaker. The 30 amp breaker is for the RV which is has no insteon involvement. The 20 amp breaker has an in-linelinc on/off module attached to it feeding a 20 amp GFI outlet. The 15 amp breaker has a microdimer module feeding a floodlight. I have no doubt most of my communication issues would be resolved if I could indeed splice in a inline linc or something similar, my only concern is tieing a 15 amp or 20 amp device into a 40 amp circuit. I would love to find a hardware solution to make it work 100% of the time but I fear it may not be possible due to the extreme distances. That's why I wish I could make a way so that the ISY could confirm it's command was received and re-send if it hadn't been.

On the power post I have a floodlight controlled by a microdimmer, and a gfi plug controlled by an inline on/off module. In the dog kenned I have two outlet lincs and a swithclinc dimmer. oddly enough the dog house has very few issues and I believe that is due to the fact the power line running out to the dog kennel is split in the basement with an outlet that is the source of power for the plm. However the power post has a 40 amp rv panel on it with a 15 amp breaker for the flood light and gfi. I would have done the same with the power post and split it at the house to attach an insteon device to boost the signal but as far as I Know there is no 40 amp insteon devices that only run 110 votls. I was thinking of getting a boosterlinc but I didn't think they would help at those distances. I'm sure my issue with the power post is that the signals have to go through a 40 amp breaker at the main panel and then through 125 feet of 8 gauge cable and then through another 15 amp breaker before it reaches the microdimmer.

Hi everyone, I have a minor issue with my network I hope someone can help me with. I have my entire house running insteon dual band devices and they work great. In order to explain my issue I will have to give you my floor plan a little. My house sits on a long property 700 feet long. My house is in the one corner, going out one direction I have a dog kennel about 200 feet away, going out the other direction from the house I have a power post with a flood light on it about 150 feet from the house. In the dog keneel I have a couple dual band insteon devices for the exterior lights and the heated water bowls and such. On the power post I have a couple of dual band insteon devices to run the flood lights and a plug for my block heater. Now that you know my layout, here is my issue. My flood lights on the power post intermittently have a communication issue and don't turn on or off with a scene they are a part of. My dog house the exterior lights intermittently don't work either. These communications are very intermittent and I somewhat expect them due to the distance they are from the house. My question is, is there no way that I can make the isy confirm that the devices received their command? I ran the even viewer and was able to catch the odd time they don't work. The isy sends the command but the fixture doesn't receive it. I assume the isy just assumes the device receives the command because the isy shows it as on even though the device didn't turn on. If I query the device the state changes back to off. It's very intermittent so If the isy would just try one more time it would probably work. Is there anyway to make the isy confirm receipt of commands?

Ok. I'll investigate when I get home for work. Thanks for all your help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I'm looking for. Are they pricey? Where is the best place to purchase one? Do they sell packages with a controller and sensor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In either case I would need something to monitor ambient temp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know what the specs are. I also know that most of the insteon equipment can operate outside of there specs from experience. I'm just curious if anyone has experience using the wireless thermostats in sub zero temps. Or does anyone have an alternate solution to monitoring outside sub zero temps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The block heater is for my car. In case that wasn't clear. I also have a few other programs I wouldn't mind running based off of ambient temperature, such as a pair of heated dog bowls and a pair of heated pet mats for my outdoor kennel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is set for certain times, based off of ambient temperature. If it's not very cold the heater doesn't have to run for as long. For example if I is below 0 it runs for three hours, below -10 - 5 hours, below -20, 7 hours and so on. My issue is I find my weather module doesn't give me an accurate temperature due to the closest weather station being 60km away. I was hoping for a local temperature monitoring solution. I'm curious if the wireless thermostat can handle -30 degree temps, I can easily find a waterproof location for it under a roof outside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk