MikeB

I would link the IRLinc THROUGH the ISY's interface - don't link the IRLinc to your IR codes independently of the ISY. Since you'll be using the IRLinc for your IR, you must use NEC codes. The RC5 code requirement is if you are using the IR receiver built into the ISY, which you won't be. I believe Michel is suggesting you use the IRLinc because its virtual devices can be added to scenes, which will execute independently of the ISY. The ISY's built-in IR receiver, which I think works great, works only through Programs.

Hey Eric - Good observation. Dimmer devices are not considered ON unless they are 100% ON. Using > than 1% should work, but keep in mind you can also do a NOT OFF. So, instead of saying: IF SWITCH1 STATUS IS ON say IF SWITCH1 STATUS IS NOT OFF

LOL! Gotta hit on those things that she might find useful. My wife loves KPL scene buttons that set room lights to specific levels with one button press. She loves the "whole floor / whole house off" buttons we use before we leave and before bed. She loves the automatic nightlight scenes I setup for our kids bedrooms. She loves the remote control of our lights from our bedroom and theater room. She loves how the holiday lights turn on and off automatically around the house. In my experience, once you setup a few things that she likes, she's much more accepting of the more oddball things that she normally couldn't care less about.

I do have an Elk M1 security system, but I don't currently integrate the Elk-124 with it - I run the Elk-124 standalone. I'll help as best I can, but to be honest I'm not nearly an Elk expert. You might want to check out www.cocoontech.com - there are many members of that forum with heavy Elk experience. I know many people use wireless sensors with varied success. I personally prefer hardwired whenever possible. I paid an alarm company to wire the motion, door and window sensors in my home. I feel the price was reasonable and worth it, and though I might have been able to do it, certainly not with the efficiency that they were able to. Most wires were run through the attic and/or basement. Wires ran between the floors via a stacked pair of closets (1 on each floor). You would need the wireless expander. Correct. It communicates directly to the ISY via the ethernet connection. The only PLM you need is for the ISY to talk to your Insteon devices (which I assume you already have). I personally prefer the look of the ELK-M1KP2 and ELK-M1KP3. The KP3 has a plastic front cover to hide the keys, so offers a cleaner look some might prefer. I think the ELK-M1KP is quite ugly. Yes - our touch panel software for the Nokia (and PC) can arm and disarm the Elk through the ISY! Here is a screenshot: http://www.interfacego.com/products/nk8 ... /nk8-9.jpg While I wish the Elk/ISY integration was a bit more full-featured, the Elk is currently your only option that I'm aware of if you want to integrate with the ISY. Hopefully more and more people will be interested in this integration which might give UDI incentive to add additional functionality. Good luck!

As of today the Elk is the only security system able to be armed/disarmed from the ISY. It's also an excellent choice - lots of capabilities, and very well supported in the DIY community.

Wow, that's very close to mine... maybe just a couple of bad switches? I have no use for this switch at the moment - drop me an email if you'd like to borrow it as a test. What hardware rev is your PLM?

OK, I hooked up the newest SwitchLinc Relay that I have (which isn't too new). It is: 2476S labeled v2.5 date code 0739 ISY shows it as firmware v.2C. The ISY is seeing local status changes with no issue. What is the date code on your problem switches, Mike?

Well I don't have a Relay newer than hardware v2.5 - though I haven't hooked it up to check the firmware level. I'll give that one a shot later today if I can. Is it possible you simply have a couple bad devices?

While you COULD do this, what you really want to do is create a SCENE in your ISY. This duplicates what you already did (but no need to manually link). I would: - unlink your 2 devices manually - create a scene - drop your devices into the scene as CONTROLLERS

I just wanted to test fully. Local control status updates to the ISY are definitely fine here with this switch. My PLM is showing firmware v63 through the ISY. It is labeled Rev 2.75.

OK. I hooked up the following switch for some quick tests. No load attached: v2476D labeled v4.0 date code 0828 I added it to the ISY via the address, and the ISY detected it correctly as a SwitchLinc Dimmer. ISY shows the firmware level as v.35. ISY is seeing status changes when the switch is controlled locally. I was able to adjust the ramp rate of the switch via the ISY, but the switch did require a reboot to activate the new ramp rate. I was able to create a scene containing both the above mentioned SwitchLinc Dimmer and an ApplianceLinc, and the scene seems to operate fine. This is the newest SwitchLinc Dimmer I have. I will leave it on my test bench for a few days - please let me know if there's anything else I should test.

I'll bite.. I have SwitchLinc Dimmers installed, labeled up to version v3.2 (ISY shows v.27), with no apparent issues. I also have SwitchLinc Relays installed, labeled up to version v2.5 (ISY shows v.2C), with no apparent issues. I do have a SwitchLinc Dimmer still in the box labeled v4.0 that I could hook up and run some basic tests when I have some time. Sorry I haven't been following all the threads - what kind of symptoms should I be looking for?

I'm surprised the WAIT and FADE STOP did not work for you. How many seconds did you WAIT for? How many seconds does it take for the FADE DOWN to finish dimming your lights?

I don't quite follow, but I can tell you that a "Fade Down" will not actually turn the device off. You'll need to issue a "Fade Stop" at the end (maybe after a WAIT command) to get the device to register as "Off."

For the record, this has been working fine for me: If From Sunset + 20 minutes To 9:30:00PM (same day) Then Set Scene 'FrontDoor' On Else Set Scene 'FrontDoor' Off I am using a standard location for my location (Boston, MA).

Hey Gary - Smarthome has had issues in the past with devices coming from the factory with links leftover from testing. Because of this I ALWAYS factory reset new devices before installation. I would like to hope that you weren't sent used units, and given how new the Motion Sensor is I think it's more than likely leftover links from testing. Glad to hear you're all set!

I wonder if maybe it's some old link left over from the factory? If you haven't, I'd remove the Motion Sensor from the ISY, factory reset it, and try re-adding it.

Thanks for testing! Darrell - Could you tell me why you thought that might be an issue? I want to make sure I understand how this program would work on the ISY. Thanks!

Sounds like a bad PLM. The LED should be on, and flicker with Insteon traffic.

Just curious - why would the WAIT in the THEN section be necessary? Just want to make sure I understand...

Also, check out this thread I started a while back: http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... light=kids Maybe the basic idea could be useful to you?

What kind of protection would you envision? If you want a button to control whether or not a program runs, then that seems to be your weak point. But it's a choice - do you want an easily accessible button to stop or start this particular function, or not? You could make the button press a bit more difficult to do accidentally, like maybe a FAST ON or FAST OFF. Also, you could setup notifications in the ISY to alert you if something you consider important is no longer in the state you'd like it to be...

The FROM address would be the email address you'd like the notification to appear to be sent from. It's a cosmetic thing - what is displayed on the FROM field of the notification email. Some email servers will restrict you to ONLY using the email address associated with your account. Other email servers will allow you to use any email address. The USER ID is the account name you are using to authenticate to your email server. Sometimes this is your email address (which would be the same as you'd most likely use for your FROM address), or sometimes it's just the first part of your email address (everything before the @ symbol). Port 587 is an alternative port used for SMTP. Many ISP's actually block port 25, unless your'e using their own mail server, to help restrain potential spyware/virus infect PCs and spammers on their network. It's not uncommon for you to NOT be able to use port 25. If the mail server you're using supports port 587, it may work for you (until ISP's decide to start blocking port 587 as well). I believe Gmail requires TLS for port 587.

For the record, I use Cingular (which is now AT&T) and this works for me: 1234567890@mobile.mycingular.com

Very helpful and informative post! One thing I wanted to mention. Port 443 is typically assumed when using HTTPS, so you should be able to simply use: https://www.ourdomainname.com