danbutter

Yeah there is a learning curve to it. I have this running on 5.0.2 and I was never able to get the autostart part working. So I guess I probably wouldn't recommend installing the beta or alpha software either if this makes you uncomfortable. I have a mix of network resources and polyglot useage. I mainly use polyglot to use voice commands for a couple hue bulbs. I would say use this guide to get the hue going with network resources and learn from that process. Polyglot will only mature as time goes on and likely become easier to install.

For those wanting to try polyglot the instructions are here: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19091-polyglot-version-004-release/ This does require running a version of 5.x.x beta or alpha firmware. Getting it installed from these instructions is doable. I did run into a couple things though. There is no feedback from polyglot when you hit the button to add a server. Just click on the left side of the page to see if it is running or not. The first time I tried I ended up with multiple nodes without realizing it. I don't have it in front of me right now so I may be missing something. If I remember and have time this weekend ill try to give more detail.

I hadn't heard anything about the grouping. That is how my 8 key keypad is and I did the same to the 6 key. Now I have ungrouped and done the scene the way james and apnar recommended and all is well so far. The only other thing I wondered was can you add a fast off to turn both fan and light off to a scene or does it need to be a program? I couldn't figure out how if you can do it in a scene. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I'll have to look harder I guess. I do have a scene for each button and each speed and I'm 99.9% sure there are no programs turning off the buttons on the 8 button keypad. Will report back when home and can check. Thanks for the replies.

Ok so I installed a ceiling fan this past weekend and I put in a fanlinc and a keypad to control it. This is a keypad with the top and bottom two bridged/6button if it matters. So I tried to do all the crosslinking and it works, but it works differently than an 8 button keypad and fanlinc I have in another room. This new one is set to toggle for all buttons and I have button A set to low fan, B to med fan and C to high fan. The thing is that when A is already pressed and the fan is running on low pressing B will change to med fan speed, but button A is still lit. So now the speed is med , but both buttons are lit. The other keypad and fanlinc I have doesn't do this. If A is pushed and then B is pushed then the speed goes up and the A button light goes out. I have poured over the admin console trying to figure it out , but everything looks the same except the different versions. Any ideas what I should look into?

Good deal. I would love to see what you're doing when you get time. Thanks for offering.

I'll take a look at this. Thanks for posting.

Yes it does in the admin console. That is the only place though. So I'm looking into something like this perhaps in conjuction with HAD to be able to have a webpage to see the status of things around the house. Only downside is that I'm not a programmer so it will take a lot of learning. I'll start looking into it. Thanks for the reply.

Would this method work to get the status of a nodelink node? I have several doors on my dsc alarm that only the admin console can tell me the status of.

Could you share how you wired this up? I picked up an iolinc at the menards clearance sale hoping to do something like this, but have yet to figure it out. I do also have a dsc alarm panel next to my doorbell transformer if that is easier. Thanks

Just wanted to add the kwikset option for you. I have a few kwikset keypad locks one of which is a deadbolt. The biggest advantage of the kwikset locks for me is the smartkey feature so I can have the same key for all my locks. As far as the zwave it behaves the same as the others have been saying about the schlage. Right down to customer service. I ordered one from ebay and it didnt come whole. I called in asking to buy the missing piece and they sent it to me with overnight shipping for free!

Not sure of the exact model you have and whether or not this is applicable, but you could try this. Look at the pic which is a snip of the service manual for AVR-3312CI/AVR-3312. Your command would be MV40 if 40dB was the level you wanted. Not sure if this is what you meant by absolute volume. Hope this helps

Thanks a lot for all the help. I ended up doing this: Laundry Motion - [ID 0009][Parent 0001] If $Laundry_Light is 1 Then Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' On Else Wait 1 minute Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' Off ...and it works great. When it was going on and off I realized I don't need to have it wait so long since the motion seems to see you breathe down there. Thanks again!

I tried this one and the light comes on as desired, but never turns off. Laundry Motion - [ID 0009][Parent 0001] If $Laundry_Light is 1 Then Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') and then I tried this one and the light is only on for as long as motion is seen. Laundry Motion - [ID 0009][Parent 0001] If $Laundry_Light is 1 Then Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' On Wait 5 minutes Else Set 'Basement / Laundry Light' Off I'm pretty new at all this so it is probably something simple, but usually I can stumble through and figure things out. Not yet on this one though. I'm open to ideas!

I have DSCLink running and it is working ok. I have a motion hooked to the panel change a state variable in the ISY. I then have a program to turn on light when variable state is seen. It does. I then have a wait 5 mins and turn light off. However it doesn't wait. The second the motion sensor sees no motion the light goes off again. What am I missing?

Well I tried and it just didn't work for me. I can only cover part of what i wanted to. I think my next motion sensor project will be to see if I can disassemble and try to trigger this insteon motion from my dsc motion as I know that can see 360 degrees. Anybody else torn one of these down before?

I'll try to poke around and see if I can learn more about it this evening. I was trying to use micro modules to keep the original switches that my family prefers as well as it being half the cost. That being said...If I could fit switchlincs in the box I'd be done already. The existing switches barely fit now!

One (the one I started to work on) is both kitchen and mudroom, but the other is mudroom and front entrance. That is where it looks like they might have used the white as a traveller. Definitely a lot in that box as you can see from the picture.

I am, but two times. Both circuits are 3 way and one end of each of those circuits are in the mudroom box and seem to be getting power from there. So I'm assuming that both circuits must be controlled from this box. I could be mistaken on that though. That's why I'm asking the experts here! Sorry that I'm missing some details along the way.

Trying to attach a picture. Looks like not all of the whites are together. Maybe one is being used as a traveler? In the fixture box I have 2 pieces of romex. Black, white and red conductors. Red ties to other red. White from wire one ties to black of wire two and then the remaining black and white (one from each wire) go to light fixture.

I guess I may need a little direction then. I know there are two breakers I have to turn off to get the lights these switches control off. Other than that the one with the red is going to the mudroom light and I don't know where the other five come from or go except there is a light on one end of the other swith and it's a 3 way also. I know there is one huge bundle of neutral wires and two groups of black wires. What else would you expect to see Stu?

Yeah I'm thinking that I will have to gut the mudroom box (which is an old small metal box) rip it out and replace with a new larger plastic box. Thing is that even if it were deeper I think it would be tough to get two (since I want both of those lights automated) micro modules or two switchlincs into this box. I may have to get a three gang box and leave a blank or something. If anyone else has thoughts on how I could independantly control two lights in a stuffed full of wire 2 gang box I'd be glad to hear them.

Okay the kitchen box has two switches for two different 3 way circuits one in the kitchen which I'm not trying to do anything to and the one I want to automate. Each switch in this box has a single romex to the switch. White, black and red. White to brass, black to black and red to the single brass on the other side. The mudroom box has two switches and 6 wires (romex) 5 are black and white and the 6th is black white and red. These switches are both ones that I would like to automate, but this box is crammed full. Anyway the one switch I was trying to do has red on the single brass screw and black from the same romex on the other brass while the black screw has black from another romex. I'm betting this is the hot since it goes into a wirenut with 4 total black conductors. The other switch in this box is on another circuit and it has black from a black bundle on the black screw, black from another wire on the top brass screw and white on the single brass screw. Hope that all makes sense. Thanks for looking.

Okay I can do that tomorrow when I have daylight again. Each switch is in a double gang box with another 3 way (2 switch if it matters) circuit. The one I had open today had six wires (romex) of which only one had a red traveler IIRC. I'll try to get all the details tomorrow.

My intention was to put the micro module behind the last switch in the circuit between the switch and the load/light as I have read these things are supposed to be installed. Sadly there is just no room in the switch box so I was attempting to do it in the fixture box. After a bit more studying I have found that there is no always hot wire in the fixture box so I don't believe it is possible. I think my only option is to dig the box out of the wall and replace with a larger one. Not going to be fun, but I can't figure out another way to do it. The existing switches barely fit as it is!