stusviews

Is everything wired correctly, that is unswitched power to the FanLinc and the red KPL wire capped? Create a scene for the light with the KPL On/Off pair as a controller. Create a scene for each fan speed plus off and a scene for the lights. Include all four buttons of the KPL in each fan speed scene. Select one button as the controller of the scene and the other three as responders. Set the On-level of the controller to on and that of the responders to off. The Fan Off scenes has all buttons set to off. Add the appropriate Mini Remote button to each scene.

You don't need a program. Create a scene with the KPL button and I/O Linc Sensor as controllers and the I/O Linc Relay as a responder. I also use Momentary B and have set the button to non-togggle On.

Open the Java Control panel (javacpl), select Security, edit Site List and add the IST IP address plus port.

You really shouldn't need to adjust the options. It's best to follow the procedure in the Owner's Manual unless you have a way to actually measure load off and load on amperes.

Yes!

Which is why Michel asked about -101xx

Hi Xathros, I don't know if you've seen this, but in case you didn't here's the ISY error list

A major goal of energy efficient products it to reduce our reliance on limited resources. If you can save money, too, then that's great. It takes 15 or 20 years to pay for an energy efficient bulb. Hmm, how many gallons of gas does an electric car cost?

Does "more device types" refer to different kinds of devices or more than one device at a time?

SH is the confuser. KeypadLincs were KPL Dimmers or KPL Relays, now they're Keypad Dimmer Switches and Scene Control Keypads with On/Off Switches which are also called KeypadLinc. Access Points are Range Extenders, ApplianceLincs are On/Off Modules. SwitchLincs are still SwitchLincs, but instead of Dimmer and Relay, they're Dimmer and On/Off. It's likely that Keypads will continue to be referred to as KPLs for a while.

The ISY identifies the 6-button KPL (2334-232) as a 5-button KPL. Actually, it's a 6-button device that has 5 controllers/responders, one of which controls the device's load

A refrigerator that ices up is defective. The correct solution is to repair or replace it. Anything short of that is a band-aid until it gets worse. BTW, you may only need a minor repair such as a temperature regulator.

The presence or absence of a negative sign for the longitude designates east or west , respectively.

I snapped large buttons into the middle positions. They do fit. Just remember that both buttons need to be controllers in any scene or program. If you want the only the buttons to be responders to a program, then create a scene that includes only the buttons and control the scene.

Lee, does that mean that a program like this won't work unless auto writing to battery powered devices is turned off? If Control 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall-Sensor' is switched On Or Control 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall-Sensor' is switched Off Then Set 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall-Sensor' Write Device Updates

The Hidden Door sensor does not have to be removed to put it in linking mode. The Owner's Manual has instructions.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/

Controlling a LampLinc is fine. I missed that in #23

I do understand work environments blocking certain, but not all internet sites. I've experienced that. But, which hotels? None that I've ever been to in Santa Barbara, a decidedly college party town. And Laguna Beach, a somewhat wild resort area in spite of being in Orange county.

I can understand a work environment blocking internet traffic, but a hotel? Which hotel did that?

DynDNS is $25/year which includes up to 30 host names.

It is not in compliance with the electric code to use a dimmer to control an outlet even if the outlet is a GFCI. You can, however, use an OutletLinc Dimmer or LampLinc.

It is not in compliance with the electric code to use a dimmer to control an outlet (duplex receptacle).

If jumper 5 is installed, then except for jumper 1 (sensitivity), the other jumpers have no function nor do the dials.

The combination is A-B-C, in that order. A, B, and C are secondary buttons, so a scene is required to change the LEDs from lit to unlit. Micro Modules were chosen because they can be hidden from manual control. A wait state may need to be added. Programs B and C are disabled. I have not tested the result. Program A If Control 'Button A' is switched On Then Set Scene 'Button A' Off Set 'Micro Module A" On Run Program 'B" (If) Program B If Control 'Button B' is switched On And Status 'Button A' is Off And Status 'Micro Module A' is On Then Set Scene 'Button B' Off Set 'Micro Module B" On Run Program 'C' (If) Program C If Control 'Button C' is switched On And Status 'Button A' is Off And Status 'Button B' is Off And Status 'Micro Module A' is On And Status 'Micro Module B' is On Then Set Scene 'Button C' Off Set 'Micro Module A' Off Set 'Micro Module B' Off Run Program 'whatever' (If)