stusviews

If all you need is a sensor, then here's one: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2842-222-wireless-motion-sensor.html

¿"z-wave micro dimmer relay switch"? A switch is either a dimmer or a relay, not both. I don't know what you mean by wiring a switch "onto" another switch. Other than that, you can have several devices on the same circuit, a circuit being everything powered/protected by the same circuit breaker.

A few of us have been having difficulty with RemoteLincs. Search for 2440

ffpllc, what's your specific difficulty?

I saw the 3rd after posting

ToggleLincs are powerline only. If they're all on the same circuit, then that implies that there's something interfering with the signal on that circuit. A handy tool is a 2-wire extension cord cut in half and wired to power the device and connect a load. Use that to test a ToggleLinc with the extension cord plugged in near the PLM and a lamp at the other end. If that works, then you'll need to find to cause of the interference. BTW, on a 20wire extension cord, the neutral (wide blade) side has a rib, the line side is smooth.

How are you trying to view the error log?

What is the result if you query the the thermostat?

After coordinating the firmware and UI, what;s the result if you change the timeout using HL and then add the MS to the ISY?

If the SwitchLinc clicks when you turn it on, then it's a On/Off switch (relay). The dimmer is silent.

"And" the state of all devices in the scene to include what the scene does. For example, If x is On and y is 30% and z is Off

Double-tapping the button on a KPL sends a fast on if the button is off and a fast off if the button is on

RF is considerable less reliable that powerline signals. Thus, a signal from an RF device such as a Motion Sensor may easily reach the nearest dual-band device which will repeat the signal via both the powerline and RF. But, if the PLM is plugged into a surge suppressor, then the powerline signal won't reach it--at all. Try plugging the PLM directly into a wall outlet.

To "test" dual band devices, press the set button four times very, very, very fast. The set LED will begin blinking and the device may start beeping. It that doesn't occur, then you pressed the set button too slowly. Once the device is place into broadcast mode, observe the set LEDs on other dual-band devices. Is the "power strip" only a power strip or is it also a surge or other they of protector?

Repeat x times program statements Repeat 1 times program statements The first set of statements repeat x times, the second set runs once.

Duration is how long something lasts.

Oops, I did mean CFLs. If the bulbs are dimmible, then that will appear on the base.

That's about 587½ years, including leap years @ 5 changes/day.

Insteon dimmers will work with some LED bulbs. Is yours specifically labelled to be dimmable?

The I/O Linc colud be 2' from the panel, but if it's on the opposite leg of the split, single-phase electric supply as the controller, then it may as well be a few hundred feet away if you don't have good coupling. Or something on the same circuit as the I/O Linc of controller is interfering with the Insteon signal. Start by determining what else is on the same circuit as the I/O Linc. Alternatively, use a long extension cord to power the I/O Linc form an outlet that you know is on a different circuit. Another choice is to plug any dual-band device into the I/O Linc pass-through outlet. BTW, the 2663 Outlet does rebroadcast the Insteon signal.

The 2663 Outlet is dual-band. The 2450 I/O Linc is powerline only.

Model #'s of the garage door operator ans the wall unit.

If you have a folder with the same name, then you probably funtime created it. If it's empty, then you can safely delete it. Or rename the folder , for example, Murry Table, and populate it

Auto DR Murry Mansion is the name you gave your home. IIRC, it was originally My Lighting.

The savings on an upgrade is substantial. All of our dimmers have a preset that gives pleasant lighting for virtually everything except reading and cleaning. Some areas have three levels. And I, too, like to keep the front exterior dimly lit all night. Thanks to Insteon, I can remotely control the brightness of the walkway and driveway lights. Less brightness, less power consumed. Thanks to the ISY, I can schedule the lighting to occur only between dusk and dawn and brighten if there's activity. Pushing a button is easy. Doing it with your hands in your pockets is luxurious