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The 15 minute notification is possible Then Repeat x times Wait 15 min Send Notification but what do you want/have to send a signal that the "door is open" to end the alerts?"

Which older Insteon devices? Some have gotten thinner, some thicker, but I'm not aware of a shape change.

On power on a washing machine varies. How did you distinguish between idle (between cycles) and fully off?

A washing machine that is idle (i.e., between cycles) and off is not the same. Which did you program for? Many modern washers use nearly the same value for both, so it may be impossible to distinguish between the two!!!

I don't have an EzFlora, so I can't test. But, if all 8 zones are not in use, would the program work on an unused zone?

I have a scene with 59 devices. No traffic problems.

I use a relay between the doorbell wiring and I/O Linc sense terminals. The camera responds to/records motion.

Does the FanLinc function correctly?

I'm using a Carrier two stage compressor and single stage gas furnace with a Honeywell TotalZone panel and Insteon thermostats.

A halogen bulb is an incandescent bulb with a bit of gas added. Due to the chemical nature of the gas, the tungsten filament lasts longer and glows brighter. Tungsten, BTW, is the material that the filament of incandescent bulbs are made of.

First and foremost: connecting line and neutral to the 2-Wire SwitchLinc will destroy the device. No, the dimmer should be able to light the bulb to full brightness. Hold the top of the paddle. Does the light get any brighter? A solution is to rewire the switch box so that white is neutral (it's line now) and black is line (that's currently the load wire) and us a standard SwitchLinc or, preferable, a Keypad with the load (red) wire capped.

There are several ISY models available. Each can later be updated to a model with more features (e.g, Pro, Z-Wave, etc.). If your budget permits, I suggest going with the Pro model.

If you're aware of an Insteon device that returns to On after a power outage and you can set the power out outlet to power down with STB, then you can power that device from the power out outlet and monitor the state of that Insteon device.

You can use any Insteon On/Off device to control this relay: http://www.smarthome.com/elk-heavy-duty-relay-contactor-in-a-lockable-metal-structured-wiring-panel-enclosure.html

That suggests that there may have been links, actually half-links, that the ISY was unaware of and creating a scene caused a fix to occur.

What's the result if you link the MS to an Insteon device?

Because you will have electric heat, you'll need to know the specifics about the thermostat(s) first. That's because "standard" thermostats are designed to control 24VAC circuits and electric heat uses line power. Your HVAC contractor is the person to contact.

An important concern is programming the door sensors. You don't want the compressor to cycle every time someone enters or leaves, so you'll need to include a delay. But, that can wait for now. Virtually every thermostat is compatible with residential AC systems. If you use the same thermostat(s) for both and you don't want Insteon, then either a Z-Wave or ZigBee thermostat will work. Which ISY you select then depends on which protocol thermostat you select. If you have separate thermostats for cooling and heating, then there is more to consider. Which particular thermostats are currently installed?

Nope. A relay (On/Off) can send dim and bright as a scene controller. The relay would need to be wired to the light in order to avoid dimming.

Holding the Off button would still send a dim command to the FanLinc, even with the scene set at 100%.

You chose the correct switch. The only task left is to choose the correct wires, black and red. Because polarity doesn't matter, you can choose which of black or red connects to GND and which connects to Sense.

The green wire connects to NC, red to NO and black to COM, so you'd use green and black for NC and red and black for NO. It doesn't matter to the I/O Linc sensor which wire is common and which wire isn't.

A solution is to use a Micro On/Off Module instead of the FanLinc dimmer. Or, if you have line, neutral and load at the switch box, then you can install a 6-button On/Off KPL wired to the load.

http://www.nokey.com/brutelock.html

Only if you use a program or two.