stusviews

You chose the correct switch. The only task left is to choose the correct wires, black and red. Because polarity doesn't matter, you can choose which of black or red connects to GND and which connects to Sense.

The green wire connects to NC, red to NO and black to COM, so you'd use green and black for NC and red and black for NO. It doesn't matter to the I/O Linc sensor which wire is common and which wire isn't.

A solution is to use a Micro On/Off Module instead of the FanLinc dimmer. Or, if you have line, neutral and load at the switch box, then you can install a 6-button On/Off KPL wired to the load.

http://www.nokey.com/brutelock.html

Only if you use a program or two.

Correct. The switch allows a choice of NO or NC contacts. So does the output of the I/O Linc.

Do you require/desire a failsafe or failsecure lock? A failsafe lock provides an emergency exit in the event power fails, for example, an electric fire or something else that knocks out power.. A failsecure permits no entry nor egress in the even of a power failure.

Fast on functions correctly from both the primary and secondary switches. What doesn't work from the secondary switch--that does work from the primary switch--is using a single tap to bring the load to full on when the load is already at a preset On-level (less that 100%).

It's not you, it's Insteon. That's the correct Insteon behavior, but not the correct expected behavior. That's because the second tap when the device is on affects only the load wired to that device. If you double-tap (fast on) the secondary switch, then the load will go to full on. You can also hold the paddle.

When you press the button does it blink at all or does it remain dark? Disregard if you factory reset as advised by Xathros and everything works.

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Unless it's also raining

Sorry, I meant On vs. Off.

I believe we've gathered enough evidence to prove that my answer was correct

Your 2nd question

The usual definition of a contact closer/interrupter is the device's at rest state, that is, no external influence. A NC relay, for example, opens when voltage is applied. A NO momentary switch requires moving a lever or pushing a button to complete the circuit. Likewise, a magnetic reed/contact switch changes it's at rest state when under the influence of a magnet. NO = proximity to a magnetic field closes the contacts NC = proximity to a magnetic field opens the contacts That's also the same way the I/O Linc contacts are labeled.

1) There have been requests for each outlet to be separately controlled. Once again. SH responded. 2) The new On/Off Outlet is dual-band. The original OutletLinc was not. Adding RF, in and of itself, has a cost, thus an increase in price. 3) Nothing in particular. I just like making three points

Without a doubt, yes!

I use Light Dims. I also used them for our subwoofers and more.

If you meant the Insteon network, then more devices actually improves communication (better, not faster). Insteon signals do not use an Ethernet network such as a LAN or WAN at all.

If you have a DNS account, then MobiLinc will work without a subscription, too.

Click on the scene. What's the On level for button D?

You want a magnetic contact switch that is closed when away from the magnet and open when close to the magnet. Only the first device linked to allows that configuration.

A 3-4" car backup monitor is an inexpensive and minimal footprint solution.

A scene will continue to function even if the ISY is not available. A program won't.