Brian H

You could also measure the resistance between the narrower input pin and the narrower output jack. When unplugged. It should be a fairly high resistance. I measured around 250,000 Ohms in a version 1 and 330,000 Ohms in a version 4. If it is very low that would also show it has a welded contact.

It would be best to reset all the modules. If not it can lead to thing like missing or half links still in the modules.

You may want to look at the model and revision number. If it is a 2456S3 or 2856S3 Icon there are two major revisions. The original revision 1 models used a GOODSKY EZ-SH-1115A 120VAC coil relay and was in a white colored case. It did has a set of capacitors across the contacts to protect them but they where cut out at V1.3 on the 2456S3 and V1.4 on the 2856S3 Icon . Since they could short and keep the load on but they would smoke and you would have seen the smoke. The 24VDC coil relay is in the revision 4 models. They also have a snubber network across the relay contacts but I have not seen any reports of them shorting. Removing the 2.7 OHM R2 would disconnect it. Though it would also probably overheat if the capacitors failed. Both revision 1 and 4 have a local control sensing feature. That could be triggered by some inductive loads but if it just recently started that may not be an issue. You would probably hear the relay double click in the case.

The ISY994i has a large voltage input specification. 5 volts to 30 volts, 2mm barrel + center pin; older manual said minimum 300mA I would just be sure the polarity is correct + to center pin and correct barrel size to fit the jack. My first ones where 5 volts 500mA or 1 Amp. I have had a few over the years go bad. I see the presently sold ones are 12 volts 1 Amp. When mine went bad. The ISY994i was semi stable until I tried a reboot. It would start up and when the LED's started it shut down and started the whole sequence again.

As pointed out. The early models with Insteon support. Used a 2441V Insteon adapter into the Venstar T1700,T1800 and T1900 thermostat. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2441V.pdf. The later ones sold by Smarthome had Insteon signaling installed and had a Insteon style part number. 2441T Thermostat, 27232-232 or 2441ZTH External Insteon thermostat. I also have not seen a Wi-Fi modules for that line of modules. There are some for the more modern models available. I did see a Venstar wireless external temperature module available for that line of thermostats.

Venstar made an ACC0436 kit to allow folks with a simple two wire heat only setup. To use one of their programmable units that need a constant power feed. It was a 24VAC 200mA wall wart and a 24VAC coiled relay. So the unit could get power and isolate control for the two wire controls.

From the wiki. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Resetting_Your_ISY

It stays with the module and its unique UUID. I have the A10/X10, Networking Modules on my main ISY994i. May spare ISY99i shows none of the extra module added.

The EZX10RF is built on a 2412 base PLM board with their custom daughter board. It acts like an all address X10 receiver and can map up to 20 X10 address to a Insteon Address Scene I believe. If you have the $9.00 module. It will show up in the Administrative Consoles. Help, About Tab. Should show up as an A10/X10 For INSTEON (21060). You should also see in the Add A New Device Tab. Entrees for an A10/X10 address. A10 was an enhanced protocol built on the X10 signaling.

That link is the PLM Pro by the now gone Smartlabs. It had a universal power supply 100VAC to 240VAC. 50, 60 cycles. Back plate was separate so it could be changed to match the local electric outlets. Faster memory and link database increased from ~1000 links to ~4000 links. Looked similar to the case size used on the 2457D2 LampLinc. Serial, USB and Ethernet versions where in the FCC data.

It only has three wires in it. RS232 Receive, RS232 Send and a signal common wire. The remaining connections on the PLM serial connector. Are TTL send, TTL receive and if the older 2412S unregulated +12 volts. Should not normally be connected to anything.

I too would suspect the power supply. There are many posts here with failing power supply. I have had a few myself. UDI presently sells a 12 Volt supply as the ISY994i has a fairly wide power specification.

I found my rough sketch of a 2430 supply area. The C2 470uF/35V is the 30 volt main supply and the 30V Zener diode is across the cap. The black mark on the bottom is probably that diode getting warm. I have seen this before. It is used for the power line transmitters power. The C4 100uF/16V is in the +5 volt logic supply used by the electronics.

My bad. I would suspect the larger one as it is in the main supply. Though would not hurt do do both as a safe thing to do.

I remember your post and fix. For the 2430 ControLinc Maxi. I would at least look at the board and see if it has a similar problem. Maybe try a new capacitor. My thoughts where with the cap not working correctly. There was too much ripple current in the diodes. The black rectangular diode next to the large capacitor is a zener diode seen in many of the older Insteon devices.

On mine I had to get far enough away from the Dual Band PLM to do anything with it. Like put it into the linking mode near a Dual Band device on the other end of the house away from the PLM. So all the signaling had to go through that device and the PLM did not receive it by RF and used the power lines.

I don't use any that dim. I use all relay type Insteon modules as I am from a past where LED bulbs did not dim. Though the old one I still use have local control sensing and some pulse at a few second rate.

I have seen bulb manufacturers change a hardware design and not change the description. That can effect how a dimming style LED bulb works.

The 2450 is power line only. So it has to be with in RF communications range of USB Dongle. To a dual band module that can communicate on the power line to the 2450. The 2450 also had a switching power supply chip in it and depending on its age. May have a failing supply or is the original I1 signaling standard. That used a large amount of peeks and pokes to do one link. If you have an extra dual band plug in module. You can try and plug it into the outlet on the front of the 2450 and see if anything changes to link it.

The UDI Wiki has lots of tips, videos and how to pages. The ISY Cookbook available there is also a great help. Along with the users here. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

You may want to look at their web page drivers tab. I don't have a Polisy so I can't say if any of them are compatible. https://www.aten.com/us/en/products/usb-peripherals/usb-converters/uc232a/?source=google

Even at fast On and Off with a full On setting, on a dimmer is not a god way to go. There is still a possibility it may not play well with an inductive load. Unless it has an OK for a dimmer ratting. There is also a short time at Zero Crossing where the output is distorted. When turning on between the cycles. Switching from positive and negative.

Since it also has a small switching supply chip and probably a cap with out good ERS properties. It may have had a failing power supply? I have 6 on off modules and one still in the box. Where from the plastic case cracking time and are all in the to be recycled bin. As they where not safe when you unplugged them and the whole case came off and the powered up guts where all there to be touched.

We have seen new from the factory having test stuff in them including some with X10. Most do a factory reset as you mentioned to start with a clean state.

The modules do have memory in them. Links and other things. That can sometimes get corrupted, The ISY994i has a feature that can read the modules link database and then a compare feature to see if they natch what should be in it.