Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Universal Devices Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

sorka

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sorka

  1. Like I said, I've read the manual for the product. I just didn't re-read it every time I ordered an extra sensor.
  2. What is a QSG? And re-read my post. I don't RE-READ manuals for products that I already own, have lots of, and have used for years.
  3. The point is that the program is triggered on the sensor sends an ON. If it's already on, the program doesn't doesn't trigger.
  4. So apparently I already own one of these and didn't realize it. Last year I bought one and put it behind my built in refrigerator after the ice supply line sprung a leak. Well it's in the ON position now and it probably has been like that since I installed it since I pressed the button to trigger the program and left it in the ON state. Had there been a leak, it would have never been detected. Now with the skirt removed, I can see it all the way back there and I can tell it's bone dry. Does anyone know a way to reset this remotely? Otherwise I'll have to pull it out which is about 90 minute process.
  5. It's NOT in the manual. I don't make a habit of reading the manual for extra copies of devices that I already own. Now had they called this a different kind of sensor or changed the model number, then I would have looked at the manual.
  6. Right. I'm just pointing out had I not known this was a change, I would not have known I needed to reset the sensor and would have been in a state that had a serous damage causing leak started, the sensor would NOT have detected it. There's no way way to justify that this is a good change.
  7. What's even more messed up, is that if the sensor is in the ON state and you reset your ISY, there's no status. The sensor IS in the on state but you have no clue what it is so now you have to go toggle it a few times to get the status and make SURE it's in the off state. It's TOTALLY screwed up!
  8. Had I NOT discovered this and just blindly added these and a leak occurred, then I would never have known I needed to hit the reset button as my program is triggered to activate when the leak is detected but these now work as if they continually detect a leak when they're not really. This completely removes functionality that previously existed with no way around it.
  9. I have 10 rev 2.0 sensors. When they detect water, the status goes ON. When the water is removed and dry, the status goes OFF by itself. These new sensors only go on and never go off when dry. It seems you have to press the set button to get them to toggle back to the off state. Smarthome says it's because they can't have responders turning water back on when dryness is detected for "security" reasons to which I replied what moron would directly link a leak sensor to a responder rather than going through a program. So now all 5 have to go back to Amazon and I'll need to scavenge Rev 2.0 sensor from ebay.....unless someone knows a trick to fixing the 3.0 so they work properly?
  10. One more thing. I'm assuming I can't get push notifications from myQ to the ISY that are timely to the second so I'm going to route my magnetic contact switches to digital inputs on my CAI8 after all so my ISY knows exactly when my door opens or closes. I need this to trigger various external lighting scenes at home when the garage door opens at night.
  11. So I rolled the dice yesterday and drove a 90 mile round trip to the nearest Liftmaster dealer and purchased two 8550WLB openers with 7 foot solid rail kits. Installed the first one last night. Night and difference in quality of everything compared to the Mattel look and feel of the Genie and the soft start/stop is real and progressive unlike the lurchy two speed affair of the cheap Genie. One thing I will give the Genie is that the Aladdin app shows you the wifi connection status and the signal strength which the myQ app doesn't. Anyways, I did the same test this morning that failed on the Genie. I setup a rule to close at a specific time and unplugged the cable modem 3 minutes before the rule was to execute. Time came and as expected the rule failed and the door did not close. I waited a few more minutes and then plugged the cable modem back in. Waited for it to come up so everything had a connection. Now already there's a difference. myQ still shows the door status as open while the Genie is in a state that says door status unknown and that door must be operated locally to re-establish state. So I tried to close the door with myQ and it failed. So far same as the Genie which never recovered even an hour later. But 10 minutes after plugging the cable modem in, I tried a second time to close and this time it worked fine. The system was able to recover and I think I know why. The Liftmaster knows it's open/close state which is required for the TTC feature to work from the control panel which the Genie doesn't have. What's also interesting is that the Homelink communication is two way with the security 2.0 feature. On our Prius, when the door is opening or closing, the homelink display shows and up arrow or down arrow in the direction of the door motion for exactly as long as the door is moving which is pretty cool. So I ordered my Autolocks after this since I'm happy with the openers. I know many folks have complained about the wifi reliability. I'm hoping mapping a VLAN to the garage ceiling access point that is dedicated to the opener and less than 10 feet away that it will be reliable. Some wifi devices, like my ring doorbells don't work well on mesh with multiple APs broadcasting the same SSIDs.
  12. No kidding. After the failed, I put the 3 inputs from my photobeams on my CAI8 (which I'm powering via POE from my Unifi switch) and the house water control (1 in and 1 out) also on the CAI8. For the garage doors, I figured I'd just replace them after 22 years with modern units that have control built in. It's unfortunate non of them work locally/offline and get tripped up when the internet or power goes out. Half tempted to just keep the old Liftmasters after all and just hook the CAI8 up to them as well.
  13. I actually like the i/o lincs except for two things. A month or two back, all six of my i/o lincs failed simultaneously. Non of the other hundreds of insteon devices failed so it's really strange that it was just i/o lincs. They never recovered. Secondly they randomly opened my garage doors responding as if to an all on. This is a well known issue with the i/o lincs and why many have had to dump them.
  14. Can you comfirm this? Do you mean through the app or through the API? Maybe the thing that is broken is intentional for some obscure safety reason and if you actually use the close command through the API it works? But unless you've done what I said above and this program a rule through the myQ app and then have it fail because you've blocked the service from reaching the door and then unblock it after the rule fails to execute and THEN issue a command through the API to see that it still works, I'm not sure I'd consider this debunked yet.
  15. Having a hard time attempting to ditch the i/o lincs which I really dislike. So I just installed a Genie which going back because it has a massive security flaw that can leave me unable to close the door with the app when I'm away from home. Now I get that neither the Genie nor Liftmaster doors operate their rules in offline mode when the internet is down. It would be awesome if auto door closing rules still executed locally but I know they won't. But what actually happens is beyond belief and makes Aladdin completely useless to me. Say you have a rule to close the door at 10:00 pm. At 9:55 PM, the internet goes down. I live out in the country with decent gigabit Comcast but it goes down 5 or 6 times a week for 10 to 20 minutes on average. Now 10 pm rolls around and the server can't send the command to the door to close it at 10 because the internet is down. Internet comes back up at 10:15 and rules that failed to execute when the internet was down don't. What's worse is the app won't let you operate the door until you first operate the door locally to re-establish state. So if you leave your house and forget to close the door and the door rule fails to close it because the internet happens to be down at that time, you are royally screwed with no way to remotely close the door even after the internet comes back up. So in an attempt to find out if myQ has the same limitations, I contacted Liftmaster supprt and told them what happens with the Genie I just installed and they informed me, at lest they were honest, that myQ has the exact same limitation. Just coming here to confirm. Sometimes support folk aren't as educated as you might think. Also, maybe it was an issue that was eventually fixed and maybe it's still an issue leaving both myQ and Aladdin as non starters for me.
  16. My liftmasters are 22 years old. They're very loud and they consume 10 watts each of electricity sitting there doing nothing. I controlled them with my i/o lincs until all six of my i/o lincs died at the same time around my house. I'm now using the i/o on my CAI8 for my photobeams and water valve control from my ISY. I either need to buy replacement i/o lincs or find a new solution that works without REQUIRING the cloud for local control. Hence the Chamberlain myQ solution is a non starter since it not only requires going through their off site servers via the polyglot/myq solution, but they've now started charging a monthly fee for new accounts. So unless the Genie openers have some sort of direct access rest API, I'm going to need to go with an add on product like my current Insteon solution.
  17. Thanks. That worked seamlessly! I moved it off my NAS because I'm scheduling it to turn on for only an hour a day so my Blue Iris can do it's long term storage backups. It takes 50 watts just sitting there doing almost nothing 365. Just did solar and 3 powerwalls and cutting out unnecessary usage.
  18. I have NodeLink running in a docker container on my Synology. It want to move it to my RPI. I'm using both DSC and CAI. Do I need to turn NodeLink off first on the synology? Will it mess things up if I try to configure it on the RPI first? Do I need to delete the nodes on the ISY from the old copy running first? Will I nee to edit all my programs that use the DSC and CAI nodes?
  19. Just did a shotgun permission add "sudo chmod ugo+rw /home/pi" and "sudo chmod ugo+rw /home/pi/node" and it succeed without error.
  20. Trying to install for the first time on a RPI 3 B+. The only other thing I've ever installed is polyglot. sorka@raspberrypi:~ $ sudo curl -sSL http://automationshack.com/Files/install.sh | bash ### Updating System - this may take several minutes All packages are up to date. The following packages were automatically installed and are no longer required: coinor-libipopt1v5 libmumps-seq-4.10.0 libraw15 lxkeymap python-cairo python-gobject python-gobject-2 python-gtk2 python-xklavier realpath Use 'sudo apt autoremove' to remove them. 0 upgraded, 0 newly installed, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded. ### Cleaning/Creating directories mkdir: cannot create directory ‘/home/pi/dotnet’: Permission denied bash: line 25: cd: /home/pi/dotnet: No such file or directory ### Installing .NET Core 3.1.7 ### Downloading NodeLink /home/pi/node/NodeLink.dll: Permission denied /home/pi/node/NodeLink.runtimeconfig.json: Permission denied ### Modifying startup script ### Starting NodeLink bash: line 45: dotnet: command not found ### Install complete. Login to NodeLink at http://192.168.1.98:8090 No if I do a "sudo mkdir /home/pi/dotnet" it creates the directory but after running the script and getting this error, that directory is done.
  21. Just had an 8.16KW and 3 Powerwall installation and did a nice long system test yesterday. Since I don't have PTO, I disconnected the main service breaker first which kicked me into back up mode. I then engaged the inverter and the panels. Most of the power generated went to charge the batteries which started out about 18%. Worried about how the system might mess with Insteon communications, I did a query on everything (about 200 devices). This normally takes about 2 minutes. But off the grid, it zipped by in 20 seconds or so. This is repeatable. Turning solar off (but still with powerwalls connected) and the main service breaker back on, times go back to the typical 2 minutes. I'm assuming that this means there are lots of retries. My Insteon network is mostly reliable(99.9%) but I assume it's just that the retries hide failures. Likely that powerline is very unreliable and that wireless it what's mostly succeeding with the non dual mode devices receiving their signals from closer dual mode devices that acted as wireless relays. So what could be going on here? Unclean power from PG&E? Interference from a neighbor?
  22. I tried two of the i/o lincs plugged in all over the place. When trying to do a restore, there's a 100% failure rate on lincs getting written. Also the status light doesn't light back after a factory reset.
  23. No bridging other than through wireless devices on opposite legs. I used to have wired in phase coupler on the 240 volt line going to my Jacuzzi (shortest average run) but once I bought the insteon access point and put them on separate legs, I removed the wired in one with no drop in reliability. Then once over half my insteon devices were dual band, I tossed the access points. Remember that I said the i/o lincs won't even respond when the PLM is pugged directly into an i/o linc.
  24. About 3 or 4 times a month, all Insteon devices in my house come on. I have no ISY programs that send the ALL ON command yet it still happens.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.