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Bumbershoot

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Everything posted by Bumbershoot

  1. I've been running it on Mojave, including several beta versions, and the AC runs just fine. In the Java Control Panel, Security tab, you might add your ISY's IP address to the "Exception Site List". I'm not sure that will help, but I've got mine in the list and I'm having no problems.
  2. Off topic for a Z-Wave thread, but read this post from @paulbates regarding a phone call he had with @SteveL at Insteon. He begins to shed a little light on what Insteon is going through.
  3. NO, don't DELETE the PLM (modem)! You'll just cause yourself trouble. It sounds as if your PLM might be giving up the ghost. You can try a RESTORE modem, but I'd probably get a new one on order sooner than later.
  4. No, it was reverse engineered and finally supported in the 5.x.x series, and UDI has indicated that it won't be back ported to the older firmware. It'll install in the 4.x.x series as an 2842-222, but it can't be configured. There might be two ways to get past that: Use an Insteon Hub to configure the sensor Upgrade to the latest ISY firmware (5.0.15), configure the sensor, then downgrade back to the 4.x.x series, and install the configured sensor as a 2842-222 (I haven't tried this) Or, install the 5.0.15 beta...
  5. Bingo. Another reason to upgrade... ?
  6. Take a look at this post. This is used to power a bathroom fan used to exhaust humidity, but you could modify the concept for your purposes. It uses variables, and it employs an hysteresis to keep the fan from flapping on/off/on/off... I'm sure there are other ways to achieve this, but this works in my situation.
  7. Bumbershoot

    IOLink 2450

    Nope. I couldn’t recommend anything that failed that quickly. They’ve been good for me.
  8. Bumbershoot

    IOLink 2450

    I can't say for sure if it will, but here's what the device reports. It's all fairly simple. Maybe someone here can confirm if it can work with earlier firmware. Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] ---------------------------------------------- Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] West Auto Door Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] ZW011_1 uid=11 type=4.64.7 mid=335 tid=18244 pid=13616 Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] Association Group ID 1 Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x5E V2 ZWAVEPLUS_INFO Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x5A V1 DEVICE_RESET_LOCALLY Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x72 V2 MANUFACTURER_SPECIFIC Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x73 V1 POWERLEVEL Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x98 V1 SECURITY Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - Secure Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x86 V2 VERSION Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x85 V2 ASSOCIATION Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x59 V1 ASSOCIATION_GROUP_INFO Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x66 V1 BARRIER_OPERATOR Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x22 V1 APPLICATION_STATUS Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - x71 V4 NOTIFICATION Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] - xEF V0 MARK Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] Mon 03/18/2019 16:38:43 : [ZW-SHOW ] ----------------------------------------------
  9. Bumbershoot

    IOLink 2450

    I have two of these, and am happy with them. They act as secure Z-Wave repeaters, if that's an advantage for you. I don't have specific information about including them with your specific version of firmware, but they're fairly simple devices for your ISY to interact with. Works great with the 5.x.x firmware series. ~+~+~+~+~+~+~+~+~+ The GD00Z-4 Garage Door Opener Remote Controller opens or closes a sectional garage door remotely through a Z-Wave certified Gateway or Security Panel. It is compatible with virtually any automatic garage door opener connected to a sectional garage door. Installers only need to ‘pair’ the unit into the Gateway, mount the unit, connect two wires and plug it in. The GD00Z provides both audible and visual warnings prior to remotely-activated door movement, allowing it to meet UL 325-2010 safety requirements. The GD00Z ships with a wireless tilt sensor that attaches to the inside of the garage door, which reports ‘open’ or ‘closed’ status to the controller. Specifications • Power: 120VAC, 50/60 Hz • Garage door position sensor frequency: 345 MHz • Z-Wave Frequency: 908.42 MHz Z-Wave Specifications • Range: Up to 100 feet between the wireless controller and/or the closest Z-Wave receiver module • Network wide inclusion • Scene: Command class • Security compatible Certifications • FCC • ETL • UL 325 Included Accessories • Power supply 120VAC / 60Hz to 12VDC • Garage door tilt sensor • Mounting bracket and hardware Dimensions • Controller - W x H x D (Inches): 6.94 x 1.38 x 5.0 • Tilt sensor - W x H x D (Inches): 1.69 x 0.88 x 1.19 Product Compatibility Information Click here for GD00Z product compatibility information (.pdf) Order number: GD00Z-4
  10. It is, but not before a laugh! Yeah, now we're talking... I like HA to be subtle...
  11. That would work, but I'd immediately get yelled at. I was thinking of lighting that would make her face look grey, so she would put on lots of bright makeup... Probably get me yelled at, too...
  12. I'm a bit annoyed that they've discontinued various colors of OutletLinks (there's no color change kit for these). They're hard to find in black, grey and dark brown these days.
  13. Ha, I hadn't thought of that. I do have a separate fan in the WC that I could automate, but I'd probably do unnecessary damage to my WAF score -- she still has her sense of humor about home automation. I wouldn't mind finding a way to prank the guests bathroom, especially when my sister-in-law visits (she thinks home automation is silly). Maybe something obnoxious with the vanity lights... ?
  14. I have my tag update frequently during the hours when the programs might run, but that's handled from the Wireless Tag website, so it doesn't show up in these programs. It would certainly be easy enough to have the ISY run a query against the tag periodically if the Tag Manager nodeserver is used -- there are just too many ways to to do things, sometimes... ?
  15. @adamthp I just realized that my use of INTEGER variables in these programs may not work for you if humidity control is critical. You might want to use STATE variables instead, so that your programs run if any one of the variables change -- you may get more beneficial activity out of your fan if you do. In my case, it's not a big deal, but if I were writing these programs for general use, I'd use STATE variables.
  16. Good question, but I don't recall as I set it up years ago. Whatever it is though, it's sufficient, as the humidity in the house changes slowly with the exception of the bathrooms and laundry room. FWIW, the CAO Wireless tags work well enough in the bathroom. My better half isn't impressed with "barnacles" (also known as multi/motion sensors, both Insteon and Z-Wave) that get stuck on the walls around here, so I use a tag that's unobtrusive/easy to hide. EDIT: Here's a screenshot of the humidity that the CAO Wireless tag reports when a shower is taken in the master bathroom:
  17. Okay, these are a bit cumbersome. I turn on the fan only when the Master Bath humidity spikes 7% over the humidity on the other side of the house (I use variables to do this, and $s.ZW_008Humidity comes from a mulitsensor in another room). I shut if off when the humidity drops to only 5% over. I have a 2% hysteresis between the stop and start values for my fan so it doesn't toggle on/off incessantly (I'm not sure that's the best thing for a fan motor). These programs run with every humidity change between the hours specified. This sets the threshold at which the fan turns on: MastBathTargetHumidityHIGH - [ID 00B2][Parent 007E] If $s.ZW_008Humidity > 1 Then $i.HouseHumidityPlus7 = $s.ZW_008Humidity $i.HouseHumidityPlus7 += 7 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This sets the threshold at which the fan shuts off: MastBathTargetHumidityLOW - [ID 00B3][Parent 007E] If $s.ZW_008Humidity > 1 Then $i.HouseHumidityPlus5 = $s.ZW_008Humidity $i.HouseHumidityPlus5 += 5 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This starts the fan upon high humidity (I check to see if the Nest is running my HVAC fan, as I have a whole home humidifier, and I don't run the fan if I'm trying to drive humidity up): MasterBathFanHumidityON - [ID 00B0][Parent 007E] If From 7:00:00AM To 6:00:00PM (same day) And $s.MasterBathHumidity >= $i.HouseHumidityPlus7 And $s.NestHeatCool is 0 // The variable $.s.NestHeatCool is used to see if my HVAC is adjusting the home environment already. Then Run Program 'MastBathFan' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Here's the program that stops the fan: MasterBathFanHumidityOFF - [ID 00B4][Parent 007E] If $s.MasterBathHumidity <= $i.HouseHumidityPlus5 Then Run Program 'MastBathFan' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') And here's the simple program that starts/stops the fan: MastBathFan - [ID 0016][Parent 007E] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set 'Devices / dirMasterBath / sloMasterBathFan' On Else Set 'Devices / dirMasterBath / sloMasterBathFan' Off
  18. The wireless tags respond quickly. Here's a link to a 24 hour snapshot: https://my.wirelesstag.net/eth/tempStats.html?e4f7284b-8a11-4ce3-a474-e52d4c30a584&Master Bath Motion Detector&F I do this very thing. The Nest only reports out humidity data in 5% increments, so I use a Z-Wave multisensor instead.
  19. Alexa allows "Computer" as a wake word, but It's astonishing how often "computer" is used in conversation these days. "Alexa" quickly became less annoying.
  20. Ask Alexa the same thing: "I'm sorry, Dave. I can't do that. I'm not Hal and we're not in space". +1 for Google Home.
  21. That's been debated a lot on this forum. There are a few things to consider regarding the upgrade, but nothing much that I'm aware of regarding the stability and usefulness of the 5.x.x firmware. I've been running the Alpha/Beta versions for a long time, and they haven't killed my dog or orphaned my children. Yet. I think most people who've done the upgrade consider the current beta to be stable enough for normal use. Poke around in this sub-forum a bit before you make the leap, however.
  22. Thank-you, very nice work, and that's an impressive improvement! I know what my next HA gadget is going to be. Again, thank-you!
  23. Thanks, that's a useful observation. Can you recall what device you had installed (or maybe provide a link)?
  24. That is interesting. I'll take you at your word. I'm neither an electrician nor an engineer (so I can't reason a technical answer to this), but wouldn't signal robustness somehow enhance mesh durability? I would hope that a passive device like a phase coupler could be counted on for decades of service? I do have surge protection in the panel. I don't personally touch the panel. I do maintain a small budget for electricians, however. Thanks very much. I may get one of these.
  25. That's my initial thought as well. This also makes sense. Powerline noise might bring down a mesh fairly quickly if these devices weren't designed to have immediate RF/PL communications with their peers. What I'm hoping for with a phase coupler is to buffer against the analog of what people see happening with their PLMs; a degradation over time -- as devices begin to weaken and fail, noise (both PL and RF) increases, and the mesh begins to collapse. Maybe the question I'm asking is wrong: if PL/RF noise is managed, the mesh should stay as robust as ever if individual devices are swapped out as they begin to fail? This network was essentially built all at once -- providing for adequate maintenance and replacement parts, should it last indefinitely? We're becoming less eager for wholesale technology swaps in this house (not getting younger), though I hope to be able to swap out individual devices for years to come. Thanks.
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